1150 lower gearing by changing final drive

DR268

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I find the gearing very high on my 03 1150gs (as I'm sure most do)

I dont want to go down the changing gears in the gearbox route

Seems that changing the final drive to a 1100 lowers the gearing

Is this the only final drive that fits and does the job.

Is this worth the hassle ?

I very rarely use 6th at all but find 1st a pain.
 
You can also use the 850 FD. It can be done DIY but IMHO you'd want to change the infamous bearing. Again can all be done DIY there are loads of vids on Youtube.
I have an 850RT FD that I was going to use on my 1150 for offroad as I agree the GS standard 1st is way to high and 6th is a cruising gear really.
Now its lugging a sidecar it really needs the lower gearing.

If your keeping the bike long term yes, plus the bearing can be unpredictable often the only time you know they have gone is under catastrophic failure.
 
blueranger said:
You can also use the 850 FD. It can be done DIY but IMHO you'd want to change the infamous bearing. Again can all be done DIY there are loads of vids on Youtube.
I have an 850RT FD that I was going to use on my 1150 for offroad as I agree the GS standard 1st is way to high and 6th is a cruising gear really.
Now its lugging a sidecar it really needs the lower gearing.

If your keeping the bike long term yes, plus the bearing can be unpredictable often the only time you know they have gone is under catastrophic failure.
Click to expand...

cheers

any good places to find such items (specific breakers) or is it ebay and wait ?
 
Good moved use a final drive from an 1100, only use and 850 if your doing off roading only as these are much too low for road use ( unless you wish to go every where in top gear!"). Ideal for modern traffic conditions
especially for commuting, your clutch will last forever!. When I got back from a long six month trip with the lower (1100) rear drive I replaced with the standard 1150 drive, mistake after a week put it back to the lower ratio so much more flexible and no using clutch in heavy traffic. So, give it a try soon put it back if it's not for you but DON'T use an 850 as this is just too low unless going mountain climbing.
 
Yes the fit is "straight on" but fitting it is, shall we say "involved", make sure you watch the youtube video's and understand fully what your taking on.
If I recall its about £100ish for the bearing and seal.... www.motorworks.co.uk for the bits
Mikeyboy or Steptoe are they guys to speak to if you want someone to do it for you. You could always buy one on the mainland get it delivered to them and perhaps they would ship to you for self fitting.

Your probably talking a full day to remove the old one, refurb the new one, and fit it for the average person, I'd allow myself a full weekend but that's me.

There is only the one bearing that needs replacing and the seals I believe.

As far as drives go, the 1100,the 850RT and the 850GS all have differing ratio's there is a website somewhere that lists the FD ratio's for the various models.
 
davegs said:
Good moved use a final drive from an 1100, only use and 850 if your doing off roading only as these are much too low for road use ( unless you wish to go every where in top gear!"). Ideal for modern traffic conditions
especially for commuting, your clutch will last forever!. When I got back from a long six month trip with the lower (1100) rear drive I replaced with the standard 1150 drive, mistake after a week put it back to the lower ratio so much more flexible and no using clutch in heavy traffic. So, give it a try soon put it back if it's not for you but DON'T use an 850 as this is just too low unless going mountain climbing.
Click to expand...

thanks

great advice, I have another bike for off roading but it only weighs 90kg not the bus like weight of the 1150gs

I will search for an 1100 version

I have just found the following write up and seems to make the whole thing make sense.

http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/r1150gs-gearing.126/

1100 final drive 33/11 is what I need
 
Its not that big a deal at all to swap a final drive over. If the bearing and seal are not suspect on the new FD I would just swap them over without replacing those. Save that job for when they actually do need done. By then you will know how easy it is to get the FD off anyway ;)
 
850 Final Drives are like hen's teeth - but I happen to know that Smug (Tom) of this parish had one for sale a few weeks ago - if you're in the market you might want to PM him...

Mike :beerjug:
 
As above but you will need a hot air gun to heat up the retaining nuts as these are locktited and it will need to be HOT. Be sure not to loose the bearings when collecting you drive best to put a couple of bits of string through each to retain the inners. (don't ask how I know!!). Good luck!!.
 
http://http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/

This is the resource I used when I was looking to change my gearing. I don't commute much in heavy traffic, but I do use the full range of revs available and have regularly found my 1150 hitting the cut out in 5th when running around IOM. Changing to a taller FD ratio via an R1100S final drive has cured this, but for egular day to day stuff I wouldn't necessarily have gone this route.

I'll just add that my 2000 model is still on its original clutch :)
 
I have an 1100gs diff on my 1150, great mod, 6th is now a useable gear. Great mod if you can find a diff. Got mine from France


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
 
Mike O said:
850 Final Drives are like hen's teeth - but I happen to know that Smug (Tom) of this parish had one for sale a few weeks ago - if you're in the market you might want to PM him...

Mike :beerjug:
Click to expand...

Don't touch 'em, they make the gearing so low unless you want top ride up the side of house or go everywhere in top gear the 1100 is the way to go and it's so easy to do.
 
Paul Young said:
http://http://www.largiader.com/articles/gearing/

This is the resource I used when I was looking to change my gearing. I don't commute much in heavy traffic, but I do use the full range of revs available and have regularly found my 1150 hitting the cut out in 5th when running around IOM. Changing to a taller FD ratio via an R1100S final drive has cured this, but for egular day to day stuff I wouldn't necessarily have gone this route.

I'll just add that my 2000 model is still on its original clutch :)
Click to expand...

It all depends on your gearbox ratios to start with but i did the same as Paul. Engine tuning then 1100S final drive for better top end and lower rpm cruising. I have previously fitted the lowest possible ratio FD - r850r iirc. Very low top speed but wheelied in 3rd!
 
daverimm19 said:
I have an 1100gs diff on my 1150, great mod, 6th is now a useable gear. Great mod if you can find a diff. Got mine from France


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I have been out on the bike more and the gearing is pants, horrible 1st and 6th is unreal

but yes finding a 33/11 non abs diff is not handy

is there a plug available so I can use an abs diff or simply use a abs sensor with the wire cut off

anyone seen this ratio diff for sale anywhere ?
 
DR268 said:
yes finding a 33/11 non abs diff is not handy

is there a plug available so I can use an abs diff or simply use a abs sensor with the wire cut off

anyone seen this ratio diff for sale anywhere ?
Click to expand...

Yes - just cut the wire off and use the sensor as a plug. I've done exactly that with an R1100S FD speedo drive sensor for many thousands of miles.
 
I tried the 33/11 and found my revs in 6th were too high and mileage suffered
Switched to RT 32/11 and am very happy.
 
GS Addict said:
I tried the 33/11 and found my revs in 6th were too high and mileage suffered
Switched to RT 32/11 and am very happy.
Click to expand...

is there a big difference in 1st gear with 32/11 ?

I rarely use 6th its so high, I live in northern ireland, we only have 2 motorways, which I avoid

what did you do with the 33/11 ?
 
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