Random idle balance, Erratic idle & rough running,

Thanks Austin and to Adam for sharing the part, that was useful. I've been having some issues remarkably like those described, so have ordered up a TPS..
Keeping in mind Bendy's points also... :thumb
 
Interesting an informative thread; all points raised noted and on the hard drive for future use so, thank's to all contributors :thumb2
 
I fitted a SH unit to mine which sorted things out,

but i orderd a new one to be on the safe side, i may fit it during my enforced r& r


:)
 
Well, the new TPS went on this evening. Rode out, running very rough indeed. Stop, cola, chat, new TPS in... running sweet :thumb
 
OK, just to be clear as I am the OP.... after fitting the new TPS all my issues seem to have gone. The bike is running sweeter than ever, starts better and ticks over like a dream. I would say it has more power as wheelies off crests even in 5th or 6th are easy (and a bit scary in 3rd) and overtakes suddenly seem to take no time at all. Outputs on the GS911 are all nice and smooth and even except when they shouldn't be. IMHO its fixed. :clap

I hope everyone else who tries this has the same success.
 
OK, just to be clear as I am the OP.... after fitting the new TPS all my issues seem to have gone. The bike is running sweeter than ever, starts better and ticks over like a dream. I would say it has more power as wheelies off crests even in 5th or 6th are easy (and a bit scary in 3rd) and overtakes suddenly seem to take no time at all. Outputs on the GS911 are all nice and smooth and even except when they shouldn't be. IMHO its fixed. :clap

I hope everyone else who tries this has the same success.

Sadly mine is no better with a new TPS fitted. Just did 2000 miles through Spain/France, it just isn't smooth running. Occasionally it runs really sweetly for a few miles with a crisp throttle response, quick spinup and smooth tickover, then it goes all Jekyll 'n Hide and its back to blurry mirrors, harsh vibes and lumpy undertones. I have other niggles like the low sump oil warning comes on when engine gets hot and in neutral (despite the sensor being linked out) and the tyre pressure sensors go into alarm on a long steady speed run despite having been replaced. I've had some loom damage in the past so might revisit the wiring and see if some wires are broken.

I may even admit defeat and get Steptoe to have a butchers, experience might be key to sorting it once and for all.
 
Just gotto back from France and had to ride 1,500 miles with a badly misbehaving bike. Low revs and small throttle opening it was fine. More than about a quarter throttle and it misfired terribly. I had to exelerate very slowly and it would eventually get up to about 75 mph. Mpg were normal. My initial thoughts were a plug or coil going south but I Las it was starting get and running okay and only misfiring at larger throttle openings I'm wondering if it's the tps that's the problem .
 
Ive just fitted a Hela replacement to mine. So far there's no appreciable difference but at 74K under the old one it seems worth doing. The old one is put away as a spare.

@Gazza, Primary coil problems cause the fuel consumption to increase A LOT. You will be getting mid 30s mpg when it should be high 40s or better. Can you borrow a TPS to compare with your own?

The crank position sensor gets cooked, being right on top of an oil cooled lump. They can go intermittent causing the engine to run roughly as it's effectively being switched off and on again each time the sensor fails to send a signal.
 
Ive just fitted a Hela replacement to mine. So far there's no appreciable difference but at 74K under the old one it seems worth doing. The old one is put away as a spare.

@Gazza, Primary coil problems cause the fuel consumption to increase A LOT. You will be getting mid 30s mpg when it should be high 40s or better. Can you borrow a TPS to compare with your own?

The crank position sensor gets cooked, being right on top of an oil cooled lump. They can go intermittent causing the engine to run roughly as it's effectively being switched off and on again each time the sensor fails to send a signal.

Still got around 50 mpg, as I said mpg was normal,
Both cylinders were running around the same temp, as far as I could tell, pulled the coil sticks off but don't know what to look for, no water ingress though, 87,000 miles on it now, how can I check the coils as it does seem to be ok at low revs and small throttle openings? A little expensive to buy them just to check,
I'll get the plugs out soon to see what they look Like, might give me a clue!
 
Might be worth checking your throttle balance at larger throttle openings. Part-throttle is managed automatically by the idle bypass stepper motors, higher rpm is not.

I suspect this on my own rough runner and will check first when hot before spending money. I may pull the idle steppers and check the tips then recalibrate their positions with my GS911.


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Random idle balance, Erratic idle & rough running,

Some people slate the TwinMax throttle balancer. But I found it let me check the main throttles while riding the bike and check the idle steppers are working.

It’s quite sensitive so has to be used correctly.
 
Still got around 50 mpg, as I said mpg was normal,
Both cylinders were running around the same temp, as far as I could tell, pulled the coil sticks off but don't know what to look for, no water ingress though, 87,000 miles on it now, how can I check the coils as it does seem to be ok at low revs and small throttle openings? A little expensive to buy them just to check,
I'll get the plugs out soon to see what they look Like, might give me a clue!

Dropped in to see mikeyboy this afternoon, swapped the primary coils over for 2 that he had, took it for a run and it was absolutely fine again, will order new coils this week, at least it's a simple fix.
 
The plot thickens with mine.....

Just spent the day in the garage doing jobs on my GSA such as treating some underseat subframe corrosion and a few wiring checks. On removing the fuel tank, I noticed verdigris (green copper corrosion) in the wiring loom connector for the fuel pump. On closer inspection the soft rubber weatherproofing collar was absent from the connector. The last time the tank was disturbed was for a recall on the fuel line connectors.

I cleaned up the corroded connector with a fibreglass pencil and contact spray then on refitting I used some dow corning silicon grease until I can replace the connector properly. This can't have helped my rough running symptoms, thankfully the bike still seems smooth.

A good job the bugger didn't break down on me on my recent tour abroad.
 
The plot thickens with mine.....

Just spent the day in the garage doing jobs on my GSA such as treating some underseat subframe corrosion and a few wiring checks. On removing the fuel tank, I noticed verdigris (green copper corrosion) in the wiring loom connector for the fuel pump. On closer inspection the soft rubber weatherproofing collar was absent from the connector. The last time the tank was disturbed was for a recall on the fuel line connectors.

I cleaned up the corroded connector with a fibreglass pencil and contact spray then on refitting I used some dow corning silicon grease until I can replace the connector properly. This can't have helped my rough running symptoms, thankfully the bike still seems smooth.

A good job the bugger didn't break down on me on my recent tour abroad.

Try your pump controller bypass wire. With the original fuel pump, my bike felt slightly more hesitant on low fuel levels but I was never able to be sure. Switching to the controller bypass might have made a difference as the pump would not be electronically "throttled".
 
Been out on it today with the cleaned up connector and it fuels crisply and cleanly and goes pretty nicely. Also sorted the low sump oil nuisance alarm.

Typical that I get the minor niggles sorted before the big ones (rattling gearbox and play in FD rear wheel bearing).
 
I have a 2013 R1200 GSA (last aircooled motor) and have over years had degrading idle. Especially bad after hard throttle and engine braking to red light. As it degraded experienced stalls. Usually better when cold. Never had a GS911 code or Check Engine light. Bike sits in garage.
- I checked all vacuum leaks on the TBs
- Changed idle control valves (made no difference)
- Synch TB
- Changed air filter
- Performed all GS911 adaptation resets and service items
- Changed spark plugs with valve clearance check (no adjustment necessary to 22k miles as of yet)

Nothing helped.

One day when running/idling particularly shitty, I was spraying WD40 on the TBs looking for leaks and at the point of giving up, I grabbed the right TB and squeezed the cables under the Right TB and everything cleared and ran smoothly. Cut the zip ties, cleaned the two connectors with electrical cleaner spray, plugged/unplugged a few times, and 1,000 miles on it is running perfectly.

I don't even know where those wires go but the bike is like new and no more idle issues. I hope that this information might help someone out!
 
well there's only the injector or the idle stepper motor on the throttle body's
nearby on each cyl is the knock sensors, the wires to the CAT sensors or the power to the coil sticks

they run funny all the time not helped by E10 death fuel

its rubbish try 99 unleaded with a drop of dipetane - works a treat
 


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