vibration @ 4500rpm

kavwexico

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Hello all Im hoping for a bit of experience here and a bit of problem solving,

I have had a bad vibration on my 2011 r1200 gsa with 36k kms,

its all over the bike and DEFINITELY the engine thats causing this vibration, it started after I loaned my throttle position sensor to my friend but pretty sure thats a coinsidence , but I also had found out after that I had a stuck closed exhaust valve, which has now been removed,

anyway the bike is pulling like a train and has recently been serviced including valve clearance, ignition coils checked and throttle body sync but still very vibey enough to feel in the hands and feet from 4500 - redline
...............I have nearly exhausted everything I can think of with out stripping the engine, I have a question about the cam shaft tensioner, there is a lot of movement on the cam rail/guide up and down as if the tensioner is failing, when I rotate the engine, is this normal????????????
or is my paranoia driving me mad................has anyone else had this problem and what cured it
 
I'm gonna throw my guess in first....


One of the UJ's on your drive shaft, past its best and about to fail??

Sent from a U11
 
Thanks for the reply U11, I haven’t checked it yet, but I’m fairly sure it’s a vibration isolated to the engine, but I will check the drive shaft and let you know what I find👍👍👍
 
Thanks for the reply Younger06, I haven’t checked it yet, but I’m fairly sure it’s a vibration isolated to the engine, but I will check the drive shaft and let you know what I find������
 
Cam chain tensioners pump up hydraulically once oil pressure rises after starting. You should hear a brief valve train clatter on starting. If it keeps on clattering once running I'd worry.
 
Cam chain tensioners pump up hydraulically once oil pressure rises after starting. You should hear a brief valve train clatter on starting. If it keeps on clattering once running I'd worry.

cheers for the reply pukmiester, I understand how the can tensioners operate, how ever should they close up when I rotate the engine by hand, the valve guide completely compresses them, seems odd to me but its happening on both sides so is it normal for this to happen on 2011 r1200gs. im aware of the hydraulic type tensioners that have a ratchet which keeps the chain under tension, but on my bike the tensioner completely compresses and then extends again as I rotate the engine............
I just need to eliminate this being a problem
 
Sorry, I can't answer that question, never worked on anything newer than my 2008.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
If the cam chain chatter stops after a second or so it's normal. You can replace the tensioner parts at reasonable cost but probably wont make much difference.

If the front timing cover has been removed it's possible the balance shaft is out of synch which would make the engine shake.

If its transmission, the vibes wont change when you pull the clutch lever in.

If it's throttle balance the shudder will be more at low speed than moving fast with a reasonable throttle opening.
 
If the cam chain chatter stops after a second or so it's normal. You can replace the tensioner parts at reasonable cost but probably wont make much difference.

If the front timing cover has been removed it's possible the balance shaft is out of synch which would make the engine shake.

If its transmission, the vibes wont change when you pull the clutch lever in.

If it's throttle balance the shudder will be more at low speed than moving fast with a reasonable throttle opening.

Bendy toy, thanks for the reply, I’m happy enough that it’s not the cam chain tensioner now was just being paranoid

this vibration can be felt with the bike In Neutral on the center stand and when driving mostly at motorway cruising speeds........worst @4500rpm


But I taught that the transmission as in gear box would be eliminated when the clutch lever is in????????

The timing cover has not been removed so it’s unlikely to be balance shaft or is it???????
 
Tell me more about this out of sync balancing shaft please Bendy..

Sent from a U11
 
There is also a bolt that should secure the frame on right hand side to the gearbox underside. I had one fall out on my first 1200.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
That’s something else I haven’t checked is mounting bolts goin to put it on the list of things to do, it will be Sunday now before I can do anymore now anyway, but I will keep everyone informed of what I find
 
o.k. checked engine mounting bolts and they were all fine, checked valve clearance again and all was good there too, so are the cam shaft timing chains/tensioners, still have vibration and a noise like a wiring/noisey bearing coming fro the front timing cover ............will keep you all posted more investigation to follow
 
The cam/crank position sensor either works or it doesn’t. The symptoms are engine stops when hot but runs fine until up to full temperature
They can be a source of oil leaks and sat on top of the engine can get very hot.
Mine has always worked fine but my brothers bike (fewer miles than mine and no winter use) suffered badly with corrosion under the alternator belt cover. That was almost bad enough to scrap the front engine cover and caused oil leak at the cam/crank sensor o ring.
In spite of threadlock, I’ve had two lost bolts from the RH lower engine/frame mount. Vibration was worse through footrests but not obvious until bolt replaced. The brand new OEM bolt has stayed put so maybe ordinary threadlock is not up to the task. Temperature maybe?
 
As with any engine, cam timing will retard very slightly as the chain wears. The cam chain tensioner works on the slack side to avoid chain slap so should have no effect on timing. Chain replacement is due when it’s worn beyond service limits. I have no idea how you measure chain life.
 
Just a wild guess, but did these bikes not have a recall for the camshaft sensor reductor

I had a recall done on a 2010 gsa twincam to replace the reluctor on the camshaft. The dealer had great difficulty removing the old one and the bike was with them for weeks.
When I got the bike back the vibes were so bad my hands were numb after riding any distance. I kept taking it back to them and they kept telling me everything was within spec.
I ended up trading the bike in at another dealer and when I drove the bike in to their workshop the technician told me the valve timing was one or two teeth out he said he could tell by the sound of the bike and the smell from the exhaust.
The funny thing was I had noticed the bike fumes did smell different when I was parking it in my garage.
Anyway I can’t tell you how to check the valve timing, but if you could get it checked, that might rule something out, or in.
Good luck.
 


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