Battery warning light

Captain Black

Captain Black

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Just been to start my Kalahari for a run out and no battery warning light, just oil and neutral.

The lights are bright and the engine turns swiftly ( new Denso starter / oddesy battery last year), I rode it back none stop from mikeyboys place last week and I'm sure the light was ok when I left.

Any thoughts what to check ?

I assume the bulb is hard to get at :blast

I'll put my meter across the battery and run it up see if its charging shortly, when I find it:augie
 
You can split the binnacle by undoing the 4 cross head bolts set in the rear of the unit.
Disconnect the headlight and remove the front of the binnacle completely, from there you'll have reasonable access to check the condition of the bulb and it's terminal connections.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626 using Tapatalk
 
Just put the multimeter across the battery.

Ign on = 12.74 V

Running at about 3k RPM = 12.45 V

I have a recollection last week on the way home that I switched off via the kill switch in stationary traffic through Matlock as it was hot and that's when the light didn't Come back on.

Almost sure it was ok when I left mickyboys, both he ( test ride ) and me would of noticed, so its happened on the way home..
 
KSAS said:
You can split the binnacle by undoing the 4 cross head bolts set in the rear of the unit.
Disconnect the headlight and remove the front of the binnacle completely, from there you'll have reasonable access to check the condition of the bulb and it's terminal connections.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

The battery test would indicate its not the battery light I think ?
 
Captain Black said:
The battery test would indicate its not the battery light I think ?
Click to expand...
You're right there. Although surely you'd expect to see the charge light on at idle and 3000 revs if the meter was giving you those readings.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626 using Tapatalk
 
KSAS said:
You're right there. Although surely you'd expect to see the charge light on at idle and 3000 revs if the meter was giving you those readings.

Sent from my HTC Desire 626 using Tapatalk
Click to expand...

There's nothing , not even the usual flicker at idle RPM.
 
cookie said:
Yes. Reading your post about measured voltages, I'd say your rotor has gone open circuit. Very common problem.
Click to expand...


Can I check the rotor in situ or do I have to take the stator off ?

I know I'll need the removal tool for the rotor if that proves to be the issue.

Motorworks do a repro rotor at 58.00 or a OE at 198.00 :blast

Wouldn't mind the feckin bike only has 26k km. :rolleyes:
 
slip a bit of paper under the brushes to disconnect from the slip ring and measure the resistance across the rings. Can't remember the spec, but you'll likely get zero. If so, it's fecked.

Whenever I've bought a bike with that alternator, I just put a new rotor on as a matter of course. They get hot and fail. I buy retro rotors.
 
cookie said:
slip a bit of paper under the brushes to disconnect from the slip ring and measure the resistance across the rings. Can't remember the spec, but you'll likely get zero. If so, it's fecked.

Whenever I've bought a bike with that alternator, I just put a new rotor on as a matter of course. They get hot and fail. I buy retro rotors.
Click to expand...


Ok thanks cookie. Going out with my lad soon, I'll use my PD instead and get to work on the 80 when I get back.

Not paying 198.00 if the retro 58.00 ones are ok.
 
Why are you discussing duff rotors?
If the charge warning light is not working it will not charge.
Without an exciter feed it won’t work.
It may well be the bulb has blown or a poor contact on the bulb holder,start there.
 
mikeyboy said:
Why are you discussing duff rotors?
If the charge warning light is not working it will not charge.
Without an exciter feed it won’t work.
It may well be the bulb has blown or a poor contact on the bulb holder,start there.
Click to expand...

If I can get the binnacle off I'll check the bulb first, never thought of it as part of the circuit which I assume is what you mean. :blast
 
The charge warning light needs a switched live feed,check this first.
If the feed is good and the bulb is ok move down to the alternator,
There are two wires going to the brush holder,remove the r/h one when viewed from the front of the bike,Earth it.
If the light comes on ,then you can suspect a faulty rotor.
 
mikeyboy said:
The charge warning light needs a switched live feed,check this first.
If the feed is good and the bulb is ok move down to the alternator,
There are two wires going to the brush holder,remove the r/h one when viewed from the front of the bike,Earth it.
If the light comes on ,then you can suspect a faulty rotor.
Click to expand...


Cheers mike , will check later.

Off for a ride in the sunshine. :thumb2
 
Minor brain fart:blast
I was thinking about the simplified system I fit to my project bikes with an RR45.
Which have no separate voltage regulator.
Anyways the principle still applies,no charge light no charge
 

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mikeyboy said:
Minor brain fart:blast
I was thinking about the simplified system I fit to my project bikes with an RR45.
Which have no separate voltage regulator.
Anyways the principle still applies,no charge light no charge
Click to expand...


Keep having brain farts they are good !

So switched the battery bulb with the main beam... Bingo !

Back to 13.75 across the battery terminals when running and battery light back to normal. :friday

Strange thing is the main beam worked as well so switched them back. :D

Guess what..

Put the binnacle back on battery light working and charging, no main beam light.

I can live with that.

What I did notice is the twist fit of the bulb housing isn't very firm on the retaining plate, so if you wiggle it'll fail again.

Everything looks nice a new and neat in there though.

I was surprised how few wires.

Test ride this evening after the footy.

Don't want to keep taking the binnacle on and off for fear of bolloxing the threads , and its fiddly to line up.

At least I know what it is now. :beerjug:
 
Captain Black said:
Keep having brain farts they are good !

So switched the battery bulb with the main beam... Bingo !

Back to 13.75 across the battery terminals when running and battery light back to normal. :friday

Strange thing is the main beam worked as well so switched them back. :D

Guess what..

Put the binnacle back on battery light working and charging, no main beam light.

I can live with that.

What I did notice is the twist fit of the bulb housing isn't very firm on the retaining plate, so if you wiggle it'll fail again.

Everything looks nice a new and neat in there though.

I was surprised how few wires.

Test ride this evening after the footy.

Don't want to keep taking the binnacle on and off for fear of bolloxing the threads , and its fiddly to line up.

At least I know what it is now. :beerjug:
Click to expand...


The PCB's the bulbs are set in are not the most reliable of things.

Nothing like a cheap, or in this case free fix eh?

Sent from my HTC Desire 626 using Tapatalk
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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