Clutch replacement

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transalper44

transalper44

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2012 GS 1200 TC, Clutches I'm told have a life of about 40K, as mine is approaching that and don't want a failure whilst on of my road trips, can someone who's had theirs replaced, either by a main dealer or specialist,


inform me of the cost !? Many thanks.
 
I would not think 40k is a hard n fast rule by any means but Steptoe or Mikeyboy are the ones to ask.
Mikeyboy isn't that far from you.
 
My RT did 60k + with a large amount of that filtering in London and M25. I'd wait till you notice it slipping - it's very unlikely to catastrophically fail through normal wear.
 
Mines done 56K on same clutch Off to Pyrenees next week is that tempting fate ? :D
 
My recently acquired 2010 GSA twin cam had a clutch at 5500 miles, 146,000 miles later it still has the same clutch :D
 
Mine was little more than 50% worn at 50K miles. Its now done 74K with no signs of needing a new clutch.

The engine does have a clutch access cover but the engine team forgot to check with the frame team so the airbox is in the way of the cover.
 
Mine has just gone at 37k. Apparently an oil seal has gone, dumping 10/40 on the once dry clutch plates.
Quoted about £ 700 by an independent mechanic to remove engine, sort seal, replace clutch and rebuild.
It’s vibrating like an S1000XR.
 
The pressure plate etc is usually fine so you can replace just the friction plate saving hundreds in parts costs.

The hardest part is getting the box off the engine. The top left bolt has a steel dowel that seizes up. I tapped the gearbox bolt hole to a larger size and used a suitable bolt to jack it apart.
 
A full clutch kit for a 1200 Hexhead was £400 when I did mine at 10,000 miles.
 
Bendy toy said:
The pressure plate etc is usually fine so you can replace just the friction plate saving hundreds in parts costs.
Click to expand...

Ermm no. It's not.

I had a clutch replaced at 29k miles on my 1200GSA TC (friction plate only) and 500 miles later the clutch slipped again. Had to do complete clutch kit after that,

My bike was owned by someone in central London so it probably had some abuse.

But no. It's high risk not to replace pressure and holding plates while doing the friction plate.
 
sanensafe said:
Mine has just gone at 37k. Apparently an oil seal has gone, dumping 10/40 on the once dry clutch plates.
Quoted about £ 700 by an independent mechanic to remove engine, sort seal, replace clutch and rebuild.
It’s vibrating like an S1000XR.
Click to expand...

Similar failure mode for me on my 05, bill as just less than 700 done by main dealer.
I would always recommend changing all the shaft seals while in there.:thumb2
 
Just back from Europe, my bike has now covered 92.632 miles, still on original clutch, no problems with it,
It all depends upon what kind of riding you do, commuting into London every day it'll wear out quicker than tong tours and more rural riding,
Don't worry about it until you need to,
 
ferguscawley said:
Ermm no. It's not.

I had a clutch replaced at 29k miles on my 1200GSA TC (friction plate only) and 500 miles later the clutch slipped again. Had to do complete clutch kit after that,

My bike was owned by someone in central London so it probably had some abuse.

But no. It's high risk not to replace pressure and holding plates while doing the friction plate.
Click to expand...

Fair comment.
 
ferguscawley said:
Ermm no. It's not.

I had a clutch replaced at 29k miles on my 1200GSA TC (friction plate only) and 500 miles later the clutch slipped again. Had to do complete clutch kit after that,

My bike was owned by someone in central London so it probably had some abuse.

But no. It's high risk not to replace pressure and holding plates while doing the friction plate.
Click to expand...

It’s false economy to change sections of the clutch, especially as it’s not a simple job. If a part needs changing I’d recommend doing the lot.
 
Ive had the back end off the bike and removed the gearbox. Its a whole lot easier than doing a car clutch but parts for my car cost £60 for the complete clutch kit against labour at £240.

Change the swing arm bearings while in there, though there's no absolute need to remove the swing arm from the frame. Also no need to remove frame from the bike. Just remove bottom mounting bolts loosen the tops and hinge the whole back end out of the way.
 
Bendy toy said:
. Also no need to remove frame from the bike. Just remove bottom mounting bolts loosen the tops and hinge the whole back end out of the way.
Click to expand...

Really !! Please explain how the bottom subframe lug that locates underneth the gearbox manages to hinge up out of the way... And the airbox, doesn't that get in the way...
 
The airbox lifts with the frame.

If you fit the airbox to the engine (as anyone would expect), the frame won’t fit. The airbox has to go into the frame before it’s fitted to the engine.
The same applies to engine wiring. It has to be connected and clipped before fitting the rear sub frame
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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