New rear ESA after 28k miles??
- Thread starter Tyson675
- Start date
I feel your pain I really do but I also wonder why how you choose to finance your bike should make a difference though??
The rear shock on my first GS went at around 40k but I replaced it without too much expense with a 2nd hand Ohlins . Of course mine wasn't ESA and therein lies the true problem , not the durability but the added complexity and replacement cost. Non ESA is definitely best.
I have and it out handles (especially on less than perfect surfaces) any of the number of ESA WC bikes I have ridden,. The non ESA shocks may be made by Sachs but they are of a much simpler design with a great deal less to go wrong.
It's worth considering that a non ESA bike with a replacement non ESA shock is ok
But an ESA bike with a non ESA shock is not so good at trade in or resale. Also you may have to swap in pairs as it could be problematic mixing non ESA with ESA?
But an ESA bike with a non ESA shock is not so good at trade in or resale. Also you may have to swap in pairs as it could be problematic mixing non ESA with ESA?
They are good prices....
I had Wilbers WESA on my previous GS.
Simply brilliant, posted the shocks to Germany, turned around the same day. all done in one week.
Simply brilliant, posted the shocks to Germany, turned around the same day. all done in one week.
I didn’t want or ‘need’ it...saved money when I bought the bike...less to go wrong as there are no expensive electrical components to fail and as I will be keeping the bike for so long WESA or not will make very little difference if any to the price I receive for it.
Calculations done prior to June 2017.
I have had 1 2015 gs without ESA and my current 2017 exclusive with ESA and I can honestly say I can't tell the difference,except 1 you had to twiddle a nob to adjust and 1 you press a button. I agree with an earlier comment ,every other setting other than dynamic is useless .
fredaroony
Registered user
“Hey don't go talking any sense in here mate, they can't handle it! lol”.
I guess both of you missed the point. Try selling a non ESA bike and see what price you get.
OR try keeping an ESA bike after the warranty has run out and see how much money you have to spend , in under 3 years my last one had over £4500 plus of suspension warranty work.
My previous TC bike was non ESA and when I was offered a low part ex price I kept it for a further year and then sold it prvately for over £1500 more than the part ex offer.
Lucky I kept it because my 2014 R 1200 GSA TE spent more time off the road or in the delaers in that time.
My new BASIC is a keeper and therefore I couldn't give a sh*t about part ex values ..................when the new VVT model emerges all the part ex values for the WC models will plummet anyway as all the fashion lemmings rush to become BMW beta testers
fredaroony
Registered user
If a ‘standard’ s1000xr had been available easily - that is what I would have bought, and put Wilbers or similar adjustable suspension on it.
“But you will get shag-all as a trade-in!” Who cares - keep the bike for four years, and it probably becomes the more attractive option when you sell it (privately).
Certainly, if I was looking to buy a 3-5yr old bike - I’d go for the one with the Ohlins/Wilbers/WP etc.
Ride a bike with good aftermarket suspension - and you’ll never praise ESA again.
“But you will get shag-all as a trade-in!” Who cares - keep the bike for four years, and it probably becomes the more attractive option when you sell it (privately).
Certainly, if I was looking to buy a 3-5yr old bike - I’d go for the one with the Ohlins/Wilbers/WP etc.
Ride a bike with good aftermarket suspension - and you’ll never praise ESA again.
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I don't agree.
I use my ESA all the time for Soft, Medium, Hard and I can tell the difference (I'm about 15 stone riding weight). Use it a lot when traversing tarmac and bumpy country lanes or comfort riding and sports riding.
Ride height (one helmet, one helmet with luggage, two helmets with luggage) is also brilliant for changes in weight. Use this a lot as well, as I ride with and without luggage.
Dynamic is my go-to setting, but rain mode is great in Winter as it changes the ABS PRO dynamics.
Overall I think ESA is really good. It certainly doesn't slow me down on the road, within my riding ability and sanity.
Only to be made better by fitting Wilbers shocks on their WESA system, which I will do when the bike is a couple of years old or 20,000 miles covered. I might also at that point get the bike Hilltop'd and see what all the fuss is about.
I also like the GSAP, again I use that all the time and it's not perfect but overall it does the job.
Very happy with the Euro4 Specification with the OBD2 Connectors and bluetooth connectivity, which means I can easily service it myself on my Smartphone, and connect all my camera's, satnav, communications to each other.
Very good in my opinion. Nice bike.
I'm with you on that (except my GSAP is pretty darn good!). I wonder how many of the ESA naysayers simply don't/didn't make use of it and hence are judging it unfairly? I also wonder whether there's any correlation between lack of use and early ESA failures?
The ESA never worked correctly on mine and quite a few other member have had the same problem , but it works both ways how many NON ESA naysayers have actually tested a a non esa bike ...................... they do give a better standard of ride even on standard shocks
I ride with a pillion 99% of the time ,23 stone in total and once I have the suspension set up I can't tell any difference in the handling or ride quality with the non ESA bike I had.Im not slagging off the suspension just saying for me it's not worth the extra outlay.If I have the dynamic ESA on any other setting other than max or auto its useless for 2 up road riding.My GS doesn't have the helmet/luggage option you must have an old model !
I’ve had both GS and GSA with ESA - as I said, from 2014 to current, and in the same time have had a non-ESA GSA and now RS. I wouldn’t say the suspension on a manual bike is fantastic (as has been said, it’s very basic) but they’re predictable and reasonably compliant. I think most of the complaints aren’t that preload adjustment doesn’t work, or that the various settings available don’t change the feel of the suspension, but that the action of the ESA suspension isn’t plush or that well-controlled. I’ve tried all combinations and have left my present GS in Road (which is bearable). If it felt better I would say so - it’s not criticising it for the sake of it.
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