R1100GS Clutch Query

ClassicBertha

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Hi All,

I have a '99 R1100GS with 43k on. I have just spent a week in Scotland and noticed a couple of time when I was motoring along in 5th and overtook something the revs raised right up and I needed to roll off the throttle and then it settled down. It happened a couple of times during the trip. It only happens when I needed to overtake and give it the beans. My initial thinking it is the clutch?

First question: A friend of mine said it is possible to adjust the slip out of the clutch and this will sort it? Is this possible?

Second question: If a clutch is needed, what do you recommend? I don't off-road my bike, but I go camping with it. My bike is a keeper and I want to do the job right and for it to last a long time. Is OEM clutch good enough?

I plan to do this job myself with help and learn more about spannering. Any help or advice would be much appreciated.

Many thanks

Brad
 
Check you have the right adjustment at the lever and actuating arm. If it has not been adjusted correctly and/or abused in any way it may need replacing.

OEM should last 100,000+ if adjusted and treated properly.
 
The required gap at the gearbox end/operating arm is the most important adjustment to have correct. There’s plenty of threads on here which will guide you through the process of replacing the clutch if required. It’s quite a job as the arse end of the bike has to be removed effectively and the rear subframe hinges up to allow access. It can be done alone but a spare of hands is helpful. Be methodical and a competent spanner technician can achieve it in a few hours. The rubber bonding between the 2 parts of the driveshaft can begin to fail and give identical symptoms. A quick peel back of the rubber gaiter on the final drive will give you a view into the driveshaft tunnel and if its failing there may well be little specks of black rubber on the inner surface of the casing.

If you do end up needing a clutch don’t just replace the friction plate, it’s false economy and you’ll end up having to do the job again much sooner than if you replace the full set. Lastly just ensure that the end of the clutch lever is not being restricted by any hand guards which may be preventing it from fully releasing.
 
Hops is absolutely right about the possibility of the driveshaft rubbers failing and producing the same effect as clutch slip.

If you decide to access the driveshaft, remember to heat up the pivot bearing bolts near the driveshaft big-rubber-boot before you try to swing on the bolts with a big spanner. Those bolts were Loctited at the factory and heat MUST be applied to melt the sealant. Don't damage the rubber boot with your flame.

Look for Chis Harris's YouTube videos on transmission maintenance on these bikes with the cable-operated clutch. He's the biz.

And if a new clutch friction plate is eventually needed because either of wear or oil contamination, remember to buy the newly-designed plate with the longer hub which finally covers the full length of the spline on the gearbox input shaft.

BMW in Berlin-Spandau and Sachs in Slowakia between them made a real gooley in the days when these bikes were current. Because of incompetent sourcing, Sachs supplied Berlin with a clutch friction plate whose central splined hub was too short, thus not fully engaging all along the splined gearbox shaft.

Now that error has been corrected by enterprising manufacturers in Thailand and Italy. See the usual spare parts suppliers parts lists.
Best o' luck !
AL in s.e. Spain
 
Can you move the clutch arm on the rear of your gearbox about quarter of inch using your fingers ? If no play undo the 13mm lock nut and adjust the 10mm adjuster bolt so you have some play. Then adjust the cable play at handlebar lever then see if you can still make it slip.
 
Hi All. Thank you for your responses. I will start with what has been suggested. I forgot to mention something that has appeared over the last month. When I ride the bike up to 70 mph it's fine, if I accelerate up to 80 mph there is a vibration that feels like it is coming low down in the engine, through the pegs and it is felt through the bars. Could this be related? The bike has been serviced 6 months ago and throttle bodies checked a month ago. The bike has always felt smooth when revved through the gears, but no longer?

Many thanks again Gents for your help. :beerjug:

Brad
 
Can you move the clutch arm on the rear of your gearbox about quarter of inch using your fingers ? If no play undo the 13mm lock nut and adjust the 10mm adjuster bolt so you have some play. Then adjust the cable play at handlebar lever then see if you can still make it slip.

Hi Steptoe. I have checked the tolerances both ends as you said and they are fine. My friend helped me and said the measurements as you have put are spot on. I take it with this in mind it is needing a new clutch? What are your thoughts of these oil resistant friction plates? Are they worth it? Also as mentioned above, do I need a Longer splined friction plate for the splines? I thought that was on early 1100s?

Thanks again for your help

Bradley
 


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