The 20/50 sounds fine to me Mickey.
Many thanks,
Kev
Many thanks,
Kev
I'm a newbie to airheads
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Beemerboff
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I am happy to follow the factory's current recommendation and use the best oil MA2 oil around, and in Oz full ester is nor a lot more expensive - around 7 quid compared to 4 for a brand name non MA2 dino.
I find that cheap 20/50 dino quickly reverts towards its base stock, and is nearer to a 20/35 within a few thousand Ks, and it also looses viscosity dramatically as the oil gets hot - the oil pressure just plummets after a few ks on second gear off road work.
The Penrite 20/50 ester I currently use is a world away in performance - viscosity/ oil pressure has not noticeably changed in 5000 km and there is only a slight change when the temps start to soar. And that happens all to easily even with a sump spacer and the largest factory sump.
This on a 1000 cc high comp G/S which just passed 447,500 km on the original crankshaft bearings, with 5000 km old synth still has around 20 psi / 1000 revs at 90 c oil temp on the gauge, or 14 PSI at the same place with a 3000 km old 20/50 dino from the same supplier.
So for me a extra $30- for the good oil every 10,000 km is peace of mind, just like buying the best(Schuberth) crash helmet on the best (Sahara3) tires - you might not need the extra performance every day, but if you do you will be glad that you have it!
I find that cheap 20/50 dino quickly reverts towards its base stock, and is nearer to a 20/35 within a few thousand Ks, and it also looses viscosity dramatically as the oil gets hot - the oil pressure just plummets after a few ks on second gear off road work.
The Penrite 20/50 ester I currently use is a world away in performance - viscosity/ oil pressure has not noticeably changed in 5000 km and there is only a slight change when the temps start to soar. And that happens all to easily even with a sump spacer and the largest factory sump.
This on a 1000 cc high comp G/S which just passed 447,500 km on the original crankshaft bearings, with 5000 km old synth still has around 20 psi / 1000 revs at 90 c oil temp on the gauge, or 14 PSI at the same place with a 3000 km old 20/50 dino from the same supplier.
So for me a extra $30- for the good oil every 10,000 km is peace of mind, just like buying the best(Schuberth) crash helmet on the best (Sahara3) tires - you might not need the extra performance every day, but if you do you will be glad that you have it!
Batman,
If you want to waste money on fancy pants oil that’s your choice,
These motors really don’t need it.they are an unstressed pushrod ,with a pretty good oil pump,
In my opinion they seem to be a fair bit quieter on a 20/50 classic.
You will soon know if the oil is getting too hot,
Edit I appreciate what mr boff is saying,however if you consider that the 1200 Gs when first introduced also had a 20/50 mineral recommended,
Sometime later the spec was changed to a full synthetic,
So service costs went from £3.50 to £4.00 a litre to @£17.00 a litre it makes you question the reasoning.
Is'nt the dino mineral as expensive as the semi these days Mikey?
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I pay @£20 for 5 litres of 20/50 classic.
I think semi synth20/50 is @£29 for 4 litres
15/50 fully synth is @£37 for 4 litres.
As far as I’m concerned the price isn’t really too important,the engines are quieter on the mineral
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20/50 mineral is definitely the way to go 
I have now have the 20/50 mineral from moto-bins ready to change, along with fresh new lube for f/drive and g/box.
Fitting fresh new oil in a motor is always a feel good factor for me.
I see that my bike has a thick spacer between the bottom of the crankcase and the sump pan, is this an optional fitment or standard fitment on my 1990 bike (R80GS).
Spacer looks to be about 25/30 mm thick.
Fitting fresh new oil in a motor is always a feel good factor for me.
I see that my bike has a thick spacer between the bottom of the crankcase and the sump pan, is this an optional fitment or standard fitment on my 1990 bike (R80GS).
Spacer looks to be about 25/30 mm thick.
Beemerboff
Registered user
Non standard on any BMW, but a wise fitment if you intend using the bike off road with a cheap Dino instead of BMW's recommended oil.
If the sump still has the silly little air shied bolted to it get rid of it - it does no more that keep the air off the cooling fins and prevents them doing the job they were designed to do.
There is one school of thought that with the spacer the extra volume can be split between a bit more oil and and a lower oil level - with a cheap dino if you fill the sump to to full level the top six mm quickly gets beaten to a foam and blown out the breather.
Not so much a problem if you use a quality MA rated synth which are much more resistant to foaming, just one of the many benefits of using the right product for the job.
If the sump still has the silly little air shied bolted to it get rid of it - it does no more that keep the air off the cooling fins and prevents them doing the job they were designed to do.
There is one school of thought that with the spacer the extra volume can be split between a bit more oil and and a lower oil level - with a cheap dino if you fill the sump to to full level the top six mm quickly gets beaten to a foam and blown out the breather.
Not so much a problem if you use a quality MA rated synth which are much more resistant to foaming, just one of the many benefits of using the right product for the job.
Hi Beemerboff,
Thanks for that info re my sump spacer much appreciated.
After your previous post re suggesting fitting of a synthetic or Semi, I did ask the question with the two biggest UK dealers in airhead parts and both recommended the 20/50 mineral and also advised that the 20/50 was by far the most popular oil sold for airheads over here.
In my case the cost of the oil is not part of the equation.
Perhaps I’m just being a sheep and following the flock, but it would appear that there are many UK bikes that have covered 250,000 miles on stock oil without being pulled down, so providing that the oil is changed regularly it seems to do the job
It won't make a whole lot of difference to me as I have a 2018 GS-LC if I want to travel anything that resembles a distance; my R80GS is just for interest and fun, local bike nights etc…not the Aussie outback.
Thanks for that info re my sump spacer much appreciated.
After your previous post re suggesting fitting of a synthetic or Semi, I did ask the question with the two biggest UK dealers in airhead parts and both recommended the 20/50 mineral and also advised that the 20/50 was by far the most popular oil sold for airheads over here.
In my case the cost of the oil is not part of the equation.
Perhaps I’m just being a sheep and following the flock, but it would appear that there are many UK bikes that have covered 250,000 miles on stock oil without being pulled down, so providing that the oil is changed regularly it seems to do the job
It won't make a whole lot of difference to me as I have a 2018 GS-LC if I want to travel anything that resembles a distance; my R80GS is just for interest and fun, local bike nights etc…not the Aussie outback.
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