A dead GS... Some advice needed on repairing a broken wire, please...

Chisurz

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Hi all,

My otherwise very reliable 2005 R1200GS (a mere 55k miles) has finally acquired a fault that kills it... I think there is a broken wire in the stack of cables that come down from the ignition switch. Let me explain...

When I switch on the ignition key with the handlebars slightly to the right of centre, everything lights up, whirs and comes to life. Turning the handlebars to the left of centre causes the electrics to die. With the bars to the right, the engine starts just fine. Turn to the left, it stops. :blast

My conclusion: there must be a broken wire in the set that comes down from the ignition switch as this is the group that is moved with every handlebar turn...

So I have two questions:
(1) Is my diagnosis correct?
(2) What is the best way to fix it?

In particular, is this a dealer fix or a DIY thing and, if the latter, how does one go about doing it???

Thanks
 
Chisurz said:
Hi all,

My otherwise very reliable 2005 R1200GS (a mere 55k miles) has finally acquired a fault that kills it... I think there is a broken wire in the stack of cables that come down from the ignition switch. Let me explain...

When I switch on the ignition key with the handlebars slightly to the right of centre, everything lights up, whirs and comes to life. Turning the handlebars to the left of centre causes the electrics to die. With the bars to the right, the engine starts just fine. Turn to the left, it stops. :blast

My conclusion: there must be a broken wire in the set that comes down from the ignition switch as this is the group that is moved with every handlebar turn...

So I have two questions:
(1) Is my diagnosis correct?
(2) What is the best way to fix it?

In particular, is this a dealer fix or a DIY thing and, if the latter, how does one go about doing it???

Thanks
Click to expand...

Probably correct, although could be the electrical part of the switch too. Probably take the tank off, cut the ties, unplug from the main loom and test with a multi meter- most likely broken near one of the ties (that’s a generic answer BTW, not done this on a 1200, same problem afflicts the 1150, good plan to remove or loosen the ties to reduce the stress on the wiring.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Chafed or fractured wires are a common problem on many bikes.

Strip the loom tape and check everything carefully. When done reseal with self amalgamating tape. Fit new zip clips but not too tight.
 
Sound advice from Bendy.

Also heard of ignition switch contacts suffering from dirt ingress a few times over the years. Remove wiring connector from mechanics of the ignition barrel and wash out the electrical switch unit contacts with a squirt of electrical contact cleaner. Alternatively replace the switch contact unit.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
The switch module on the bottom of the ignition barrel fails ;)

In my case in the on position !

Easy fix - new module , and not a huge price for once
 
Thank you for the pointers...

So strip it back and have a look I guess...

Does the loom go in to the ignition switch unit via a plug? Or is it using fixed wiring?

And to test the wires with an AVO multi-meter, what would I need to unplug to get to the other end (to provide a circuit)?

Thanks
 
You could use a very fine needle to pierce the cable insulation away from the bars for a second test point if worse came to worse [ dont short it out on the frame], just add some tape over the pinprick when your done. Id suggest first as suggested, remove clips and outer covering then start moving cabling around with the power on to see if you can isolate the problem before interfering with any insulation..
 
Thank you to everyone for their good guidance. Good news - Having first removed various things to access the appropriate parts of the loom, I've been able to end-to-end test the wires from the connector entering the ignition switch to their termination points in the connector to the ZFE unit. This identified the red wire from the ignition switch. Next step, undid various cable ties and stripped back the loom tape. Fortunately, the break in the red wire is obvious, which simplifies the task of finding the point of discontinuity... The break is about 80mm from the ignition switch, at the point where those wires are joined in to the larger loom bundle...

Next question: What is the best way to repair the wire?

Quick spade connector? Crimp? Solder? Other...?

The one thing I'd rather not do is replace the end-to-end wire - that loom is a bit daunting...
 
Thank you - solder sleeves look like they are one way to do the job... ...and it is good to know they work with a gas lighter, as the only heat gun I have is a paint stripper and putting that much heat in to the small space below the ignition area might have dire consequences...
 
Chisurz said:
Hi all,

My otherwise very reliable 2005 R1200GS (a mere 55k miles) has finally acquired a fault that kills it... I think there is a broken wire in the stack of cables that come down from the ignition switch. Let me explain...

When I switch on the ignition key with the handlebars slightly to the right of centre, everything lights up, whirs and comes to life. Turning the handlebars to the left of centre causes the electrics to die. With the bars to the right, the engine starts just fine. Turn to the left, it stops. :blast

My conclusion: there must be a broken wire in the set that comes down from the ignition switch as this is the group that is moved with every handlebar turn...

So I have two questions:
(1) Is my diagnosis correct?
(2) What is the best way to fix it?

In particular, is this a dealer fix or a DIY thing and, if the latter, how does one go about doing it???

Thanks
Click to expand...

Had the same symptoms as said above take the tank off and unwind the loom tape from the ignition switch going into the main loom, think you will find a broken wire in there somewhere.
Once found its a very easy fix with a cable crimp.
 
I have a butane soldering iron kit (machine mart) that can also deliver a pencil flame, it would be ideal for this type of repair.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
get the wires one by one and pull at opposite ends, the broken one will allow the insulation to stretch...easy.
 
Aldi currently have a butane powered soldering iron that has an option for small blow lamp flame. At £15 its almost disposable.

If you are out in the sticks put the wires side by side, twist the bared ends together and fold the twist back along the wire. Heat shrink sleeve over that will keep it strong. Ideally do the job with solder when you can but it's actually a surprisingly good repair.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Zu3TYBs65FM
 
Thank you everyone - the R1200GS is now back on the road. Solder sleeves are brilliant, so big :fbthumb for pointing those out to me. Given how little the steering moves during normal road siding, I suspect the damage was done when putting the steering lock on (because the bars are moved to almost full lock). Perhaps I should just ride it more and lock it less...

An observation I would make is that the wire had clearly been failing for some time. The tips of the broken copper threads were corroded (blue), indicating that the wire's insulation probably failed quite some time ago. As the wire is the low-power feed from the battery to the ignition switch (to then power up the ZFE), I suspect it managed for a long while hanging on to a couple of threads within the wire. I'm just glad it finally failed when moving the bike around the garage, rather than out on the road on some dark moor in the pouring rain (not that there has been much of that lately).

Again, thank you for the all the good guidance - much appreciated.
 
Had this exact problem but on a zzr600. Was a chaffed wire, when bars one way the wire was touching earth, was fine the other way. Bit of tape fixed it once I (a friend) had found the chaffed bit.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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