2004 R1200GS valve adjustment left side only

comatox

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Hi all.
I did the service about 1.5k ago and it seems that something is not right in the left side head. Once the engine gets hot I can hear loud mechanical ticking based on the revs. Just like the valves would not be adjusted correctly. (hopefully just that). Note: when doing them first time, we found that the exhaust valves were too tight and we set them to the correct clearance.
The thing is that when we did the service last time we also adjusted the valves. :nenau

Now the issue / question. I have one brand new gasket set for one head and the noise is only coming from the left side. Is there a way to adjust the valves by taking the valve cover off from the left side only? I know that the right side has the little arrow on the cam chain sprocket to get the right cylinder to TDC (top-dead center). But I think I will need a new gasket if I take the right side off. Any way to set the left side to TDC?

Thank you all in advance. Also if you have other ideas what else could be making those ticking noises once the engine is hot.

:beerjug:
 
Unless the rubber valve cover is damaged, its reusable.

You need to check & adjust both sides & endfloat at the sametime.

MY GS sounded like a huge bag of spanners, A very helpfull fellow gser on here, came over and set inlet,outlet & endfloat.

now it sounds like a bag of spanners .. ;) i'm kidding , now it sounds very quiet.

One thing they appear to be is susceptible to is over worked oil- whan was the last time the oil was changed, and what grade is in it.

Ideally & reccomended is 20W/50 mineral oil , although most good 20W/50 grade is Semi-synth (Castrol power 1)

www.realoem.com will help for parts and part numbers

Welcome to the forum BTW
 
Thanks a lot for the good advice. The oil was changed 1500 km ago. I used 20W/50 grade is Semi-synth (Castrol power 1), also I changed the trans and rear diff oil and spark plugs etc etc. Pretty much everything as I purchased the bike in February and had no proof of what was really done on it. Even I changed the rubber boot in the mid part of the swinging arm as it was cracked. The stealer had it pricey but I thought its better to be done right.

I will take both apart and check the clearance tomorrow. Wish me luck :D
 
Santa-2512 said:
Unless the rubber valve cover is damaged, its reusable.

You need to check & adjust both sides & endfloat at the sametime.

MY GS sounded like a huge bag of spanners, A very helpfull fellow gser on here, came over and set inlet,outlet & endfloat.

now it sounds like a bag of spanners .. ;) i'm kidding , now it sounds very quiet.

One thing they appear to be is susceptible to is over worked oil- whan was the last time the oil was changed, and what grade is in it.

Ideally & reccomended is 20W/50 mineral oil , although most good 20W/50 grade is Semi-synth (Castrol power 1)

www.realoem.com will help for parts and part numbers

Welcome to the forum BTW
Click to expand...

Thanks a lot for the good advice. The oil was changed 1500 km ago. I used 20W/50 grade is Semi-synth (Castrol power 1), also I changed the trans and rear diff oil and spark plugs etc etc. Pretty much everything as I purchased the bike in February and had no proof of what was really done on it. Even I changed the rubber boot in the mid part of the swinging arm as it was cracked. The stealer had it pricey but I thought its better to be done right.

I will take both apart and check the clearance tomorrow. Wish me luck :D
 
My method to check TDC of either cylinder on the COMPRESSION stroke for setting valve timing:

1) Remove primary coil and spark plug.
2) Put bike in a high gear (I use 6th)
3) Put a long screwdriver in the plug hole until it touches the piston
4) Rotate rear wheel slowly by hand until piston rises fully and screwdriver stops moving out
5) Check both inlet and exhaust rockers are free. If not, you are on the exhaust stroke, repeat steps 4 and 5 through one engine revolution to find tdc on compression stroke.
6) Adjust clearances starting with rocker arm endfloat then valves.
7) Reassemble bike in reverse order.
 
All sorted folks!

First of all! Thank you all for the replies. What an amazing community. Received great advice from you. So yesterday I decided to take both covers off and check all the clearance levels.
Right side was all in spec, however the left side exhaust valve clearance was at 0.5. Also the left gasket seemed to be damaged enough to be replaced with the one new gasket I had, including a new O ring as well.

I put it all together and presto :D its nice and quite as much a boxxer can be. Rode the bike for 25miles and its still quite even with the engine hot. So its a success!!!

Thanks all again! :beerjug:
 
Pukmeister said:
4) Rotate rear wheel slowly by hand until piston rises fully and screwdriver stops moving out.

5) Check both inlet and exhaust rockers are free. If not, you are on the exhaust stroke, repeat steps 4
Click to expand...

Watch for the inlet valve to close then when the straw/screwdriver stops moving out you're on the compression stroke and can ignore number 5).
 
This thread inspired me to do my valve clearances and the rocker shaft end float for the first time.
Easy DIY job and bike is notably quieter. All clearances were out so needed doing. Been putting it off as I didnt want to break anything, but reckon I could do it pretty quick now. Cheers :thumb
 
andeebee said:
This thread inspired me to do my valve clearances and the rocker shaft end float for the first time.
Easy DIY job and bike is notably quieter. All clearances were out so needed doing. Been putting it off as I didnt want to break anything, but reckon I could do it pretty quick now. Cheers :thumb
Click to expand...

Follow it up with setting balance on your throttle bodies, initially at idle then up to 4000 rpm. It makes a massive difference, giving a smooth and responsive engine. Don't rush things, make tiny adjustment steps and work up/down the revs until perfect. Time well invested.
 
Pukmeister said:
Follow it up with setting balance on your throttle bodies, initially at idle then up to 4000 rpm. It makes a massive difference, giving a smooth and responsive engine. Don't rush things, make tiny adjustment steps and work up/down the revs until perfect. Time well invested.
Click to expand...

This, however I have never managed to get balanced throttles across the rev range so I adopted the practice of getting best balance in the 3-5k revs range. Using homemade manometer with scottoil 'oil' as the indicating medium
 
Getting my throttles as close to perfect as I could manage, improved the engine at low speeds town driving etc. At higher speeds there was no discernible difference.
I guess a fraction of a mm difference is a lot when both throttles are only open two fractions of a mm. But when they are half open there's only a negligible effect.
 
There is miles of adjustment available but the actual balance only happens in a narrow band.

I find it is a refining process, get it in the ballpark then make very small tweaks and blips to get it as smoothly balanced as you can from there at 2000 rpm then 3000 rpm then 4000 rpm but keep checking idle between adjustments.

Above 4000rpm I think the throttles are pretty much wide open.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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