Alaska 2018....out of adversity..!!!

Sgt Bilco

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As most of you know I organise these annual trips to some great places over the pond on your bikes and up until this year we've had no issues. Suddenly, the US insurance industry decide to stop insuring UK and European vehicles in the great US of A and Canada for reasons only known to themselves. Rumour has it that it has something to do with GDPR rules but I can't get conformation of this so no one really knows the reasons why.

So, from an organised Anchorage to San Francisco trip with 10 bikes I've had to change the whole damned thing and all this happened in the last few weeks. There is no way you can risk riding over in the US with no insurance so we had two option: abandon all together and lose flight money etc or re organise with rentals. Some people pulled out all together but some decided to carry on and do what ever I could arrange. Obviously I'm gutted for the guys who didn't want to go but we'll hopefully get this sorted in due course and rearrange for another year.

Anyhow, after about 2 weeks of hasty rearranging I was glad to get on the American Airlines flight to Anchorage via Dallas over some nice scenery.

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Even managed to catch a bit of the World Cup semi final in Dallas between flights although I missed the last 30 mins.

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After 17 hours in the air and a good nights kip it would be rude not to go the Gwennies in Anchorage for a proper breakfast and note the salad on the plate :D

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My buddy Bill Ness lives up here and he let me have a drive in his superb 1970 GTO which has 23,000 miles from newis completely original and even has the original front tyres. He's just bought this for song and it's a fantastic thing to drive. It's a 400 cu inch motor kicking out about 300bhp and is very sedate by todays standards. It's one of those cars you have to actually drive as it has old school steering, suspension and brakes and could easily get away from you if you weren't careful. Superb piece of American muscle and would love to have this at home.

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Now just got to wait for the guys to get in.
 
That sounds like a big deal changer and not a good one. Trips like yours plus folk doing their own "Ted Simon" will be feked. Hopefully they will come to some sort of compromise
 
Friday morning dawns fine and sunny and off to Anchorage airport to get the 2 bikes which we shipped. Phil and John managed to get insurance so shipped theirs. Phil got probably the last policy available from Fernet/Dairyland and John had to use his mate over here to insure his bike then add him as a named rider.

As always up here, the customs process is very easy and straightforward and the whole process of getting the bikes is a doddle. I use Motofreight for this leg and they are superb. Not teh cheapest by a long way but dealing with them is easy and they do what they say on the can. They pack the bikes superbly and use the right airlines and people so you know your bike will get there:

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Clear customs and a quick drive up the road to Fedex for the bikes and the ever smiling Lisa brings the crates out to the car park:

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Phil's new Tiger 800 is de crated;

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Followed by Johns 1968 TRiumph T160 with a Vetter fairing:

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Both bikes start on the button or first kick for teh Trident and are ready to go:

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Just one last thing is to tidy up the pallets. Apparently some folk just leave this strewn around the car park but we tidy it all up neatly. Lisa mentioned that it was commented on by the Fedex bosses that last time I was here, we were so good at cleaning up after 10 bikes that everyone rememberd us. Always good to do stuff like this especially when you will be back.

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It's amazing how little things like tidying up your own mess can generate so much goodwill.
 
Brilliant.
The T160 Guy is going to have a great time.
Re insurance: Americans are very accommodating. If you walked into a AAA office and asked for insurance, I am sure they would sort you.
 
Re insurance: Americans are very accommodating. If you walked into a AAA office and asked for insurance, I am sure they would sort you.

Possibly so but I can't take the risk advising people that this may or may not true. I personaly may take the risk but advising people it would be OK then finding out it wasn't would be a no no. Once the bikes are on their way we would be stuffed.
 
I had the same e-mail...but a short "I accept responsibilty" sorted it out....:D

It was data protection/e-mail they quoted...


As mentioned, it's OK doing that as a one off but I was advised by high up people at Progressive, Fernet and Motorcycle Express that no new business is being written by them as this time but they would honour any insurance already paid for.
 
After a proper breakfast at an American institution

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And a final prep over at Bills house it was time to head off to the first part of the trip up to Pruhoe Bay. An eclectic mix of bikes if there ever was one with John's Trident. Phil's Tiger, Bill's KTM 500, a rental KLR for Keith amd me on a borrowed F650GS.

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A quick coffee stop........

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Before getting to our cabins in Talkeetna which is a nice little tourist town between Anchorage and Fairbanks.

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Stopped at this fine establisment and you have to think that whatever you needed would be there somewhere.

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Tyre machine anyone?

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As it's Alaska, the weather can change at the drop of a hat so of course we got a little damp but a good chance to make sure the gear is waterproof.

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Always time for a coffee stop in Trapper Creek.

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Wise words......

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We arrive at our great little digs in Fairbanks called Svens. They are big tents but are comfy and clean and the place is full of people from all over the world. The hotel prices up here in holiday season are eye watering so this place is superb and a sensible price. The tents are like old school scouting trips so it's dib dib dib, dob dob dob.

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As I'm a man of a certain age, I'm up in the early hours for a bathroom trip and this is what 2am in northern Alaska looks like. It's actually brighter than it looks but the iphone doesn't really do it justice.

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We are heading up the Dalton Highway today and John and Phil have decided to scupper their plans to come with us to the Arctic Circle as expecting a 40 year old bike to do this would be bonkers on the haul road. Wise move and John preops his bike to head south to San Francisco. John and Phil were always going to do their own thing so we parted a day earlier than planned. Some of you will know John Young as he's an Iron Butt rider and rode this bike in the American Iron Butt a few years ago. 11,000 miles in 11 days and he finished it which must be a miracle. He's also my accountant and a top bloke.

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Breakfast at the excellent Sordough Cafe before parting ways:

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We then head off to the Dalton Highway.....a road full of surprises.

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For those who don't know, it goes from Fairbanks to Prudhoe Bay and is around 500 miles each way. It was designed to transport goods to and from the oilfields and back and is remote, hard on man and machine and on a bad day can be dangerous. The first 80 miles are smooth curvy tarmac and would be full of lunatic sports bike riders if it were in Europe and this stops at the the sign. It turns to hard packed dirt and today it was in perfect condition.

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Refuel at the Yukon Crossing:

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Before a stop at the Arctic Circle.

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Another 100 miles or so gets us to Coldfoot which is roughly half way where we fuel the bikes and ourselves. The truck park is empty as teh road has been closed all day about 50 miles north for maintenance.

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Nice camper parked at Coldfoot

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We always stop at a small old gold mining town called Wiseman which is about 13 miles north of Coldfoot. We had asked about weather conditions on the road and there were reports of snow, fog and strong winds for tomorrow but knowing the road as I do, it can all change in a heartbeat.

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Nice one Chris Wishing I'd the Moolah to make the trip! its on the bucket list but getting ever further away with changes in things like that insurance issue
 
BMW F650gs looking good and more than capable. How’s it feel after the 1200 Chris. Just hearing that you were doing the trip on one made me smile fondly as Julie’s old horse of 17years vintage has been brilliant. A Klr 650 too. Always wanted one of those too . Enjoy your trip , looking forward to hearing and seeing more.:beerjug:
 
As mentioned, it's OK doing that as a one off but I was advised by high up people at Progressive, Fernet and Motorcycle Express that no new business is being written by them as this time but they would honour any insurance already paid for.

Trip looks like a lot of fun! We enjoyed ours so much, that Jo is already talking about going back, but to the more Northern states this time.
I've written to the actual underwriters, explaining that we can comply with the GDPR bollox quite easily and will they continue on that basis (a letter of authority to keep and do as they please with any "data" we send them).
I'll let you know what they say next week. Enjoy your trip!
 
The plan is to get up to Prudhoe Bay and back to Wiseman in a day. It's 480 miles of staggering scenery and precious little else and I've done it a few times. It's a long day but a memorable one.

We leave Wiseman at 5.00am to get to Prudhoe at around 11. Lovely morning as teh sun filters through the trees. The i phone just doesn't do the scene justice as the midnight sun is very bright.

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The road is pretty good and the weather lovely but it's cold. A little bit of snow at higher altitudes but the going is good and the scenery stunning.

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The little 650 copes with it beautifully despite having to drag my "fuller figure" along.

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Keiths KLR is doing well and Bills KTM is eating it.

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As we approach the infamous Atigun Pass, this change rapidly. From a lovely but cold day it rapidly turned to shit as we ran into a snow and ice storm as we climbed. The pass is at about 4600ft and is known to have it's own weather system but this is ridiculous. I'm on my 8th trip here and never seen anything like it. I'll let the pictures tell the story :eek:.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-rRvLdVH/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-rRvLdVH/0/7cf81743/X2/2018-07-17%2007.07.44-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-XgJ8pBV/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-XgJ8pBV/0/a2712144/X2/2018-07-17%2007.08.05-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dWHZxK6/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dWHZxK6/0/33700e15/X2/2018-07-17%2007.08.09-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-3SxfBh5/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-3SxfBh5/0/86025b5a/X2/2018-07-17%2007.08.45-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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It seems the weather forecasters had it spot on and the temp had plummeted to finger numbing freezing. Keith had unsurprisingly slipped off the KLR on the way up as his tyres weren't knobblies and underfoot it was sheet ice. A quick stop for a few pics and a discussion of the plan ahead. We decided to head on over the pass then we headed down the other side of the pass which is usually slippy and nasty on a good day........!!!

The only saving grace I could see was we were on small bikes. The usual gaggle of GS's would have been a nightmare and we probably wouldn't have made it up the pass.
 
So after the interesting ride over the pass and drop down we carried on through some pretty cold weather, rain and generally nasty condition for around 40 miles.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-9fSVJr3/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-9fSVJr3/0/ffafe975/X2/2018-07-17%2007.52.11-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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I saw a secuirity patrol truck coming the other way around pump station 4 so asked them what the conditions north were like. He radiod through and confirmed my worst fears that it was the same conditions going north. After a quick pow wow we decided it was too dangerous to carry on all the way to Prudhoe Bay. The weather was shocking north and we were a bit concerned that we could get snowed in on the pass. I've ridden long enough to know this is when big mistakes happen and after 8 years of riding this road, it can bite you on the ass. A big off up here and you can easily die waiting for help. I know that if I had been with my normal sized group I'd have pulled out earlier trhan this so we did pretty well getting so far.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-tnCn8ZS/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-tnCn8ZS/0/d493edd1/X2/2018-07-17%2007.54.59-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-c3KrzqV/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-c3KrzqV/0/61f9ca0f/X2/2018-07-17%2007.55.07-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-HsjgCrX/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-HsjgCrX/0/5b0f972f/X2/2018-07-17%2007.56.33-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-PFFb6cj/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-PFFb6cj/0/a430139b/X2/2018-07-17%2007.56.57-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

In this case, discretion was the better part of valour even though Keith was a little disappointed, we all realised that risking everyting just to get to an oil terminal was just not worth it.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-MSfc9Lv/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-MSfc9Lv/0/f0563707/X2/2018-07-17%2007.57.05-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

We headed back and over the Atugun Pass.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-RKbpWdj/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-RKbpWdj/0/3ee30f46/X2/2018-07-17%2008.41.21-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-SH6k4TJ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-SH6k4TJ/0/16a4ab63/X2/2018-07-17%2008.41.29-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-LVD42CB/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-LVD42CB/0/a97c47a8/X2/2018-07-17%2008.41.48-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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Although the weather was shocking north of the pass, it was stunning on the south side although still damned cold.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-2QPfXdL/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-2QPfXdL/0/c9626719/X2/2018-07-17%2008.57.35-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

And 50 miles south it had warmed up a treat, road conditions good and a warm up at a road construction stop.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-mQZhnp5/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-mQZhnp5/0/2b6f7f6c/X2/2018-07-17%2009.56.26-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

I think we were all a bit dissapointed but we live to fight another day.
 
How’s it feel after the 1200 Chris. A Klr 650 too. Always wanted one of those too .

The F650 is a great little bike and nice to ride on a shitty road without the fear of binning a big GS. I have to say I respect that little bike as it hauled me 1500 miles in reasonable comfort with no issues apart from a front fork seal blown.

The KLR however is an underpowered lardy piece of junk. It did the job but man alive they are cheap bike and it shows. The F650 walks all over it in every department.
 
We shot down to Coldfoot for a late breakfast and my mood was lifted by a couple of great haul road trucks parked. Anyone who knows me or comes on my trips understands I'll always walk over and have a look at trucks......I know, I've never grown up.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-qkt7NVc/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-qkt7NVc/0/e60ea52d/X2/2018-07-17%2010.46.59-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

We then went back to our digs in Wiseman for an afternoons reast as we were shattered as I think the adrenalin had worn off. We borrowed a couple of buckets and washed some of teh Dalton shite of the bikes in the local river.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-7sMcXrR/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-7sMcXrR/0/54c81fdd/X2/2018-07-17%2012.54.53-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-6VM9b89/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-6VM9b89/0/500626ac/X2/2018-07-17%2012.59.06-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-qJTZ7Rz/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-qJTZ7Rz/0/bfb3b467/X2/2018-07-17%2012.59.25-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-cXTq6cx/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-cXTq6cx/0/b65cd11d/X2/2018-07-17%2012.59.27-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

And of course had a play whilst we were there.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-VH56gzG/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-VH56gzG/0/b836c843/X2/2018-07-17%2013.15.46-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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As we had a bit of time it was nice to have a walk around Wiseman which is an old gold mining town. Only a few people live there but as is normal, there are lots of old machinery lying around and people to chat to. I've been there many times but this is the first time I've really had teh chance to have a good old mooch.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dSTjqkZ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dSTjqkZ/0/5e06f00b/X2/2018-07-17%2017.09.56-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-bVZ2M7Z/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-bVZ2M7Z/0/e23248d2/X2/2018-07-17%2017.10.07-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-544CTCF/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-544CTCF/0/2a08d7b9/X2/2018-07-17%2017.10.32-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-WDGb9Tg/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-WDGb9Tg/0/56ead362/X2/2018-07-17%2017.12.27-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-3W8vsTZ/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-3W8vsTZ/0/30f85de4/X2/2018-07-17%2017.14.05-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-97ZCQjz/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-97ZCQjz/0/abb219a7/X2/2018-07-17%2017.30.07-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

Bear skin anyone?

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-ppPqhfz/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-ppPqhfz/0/b7bdbafc/X2/2018-07-17%2018.06.04-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

Got to have a pose

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-5hfRxhH/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-5hfRxhH/0/c26196e6/X2/2018-07-17%2018.06.58-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-WsmtMk4/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-WsmtMk4/0/6e4fbf46/X2/2018-07-17%2018.07.13-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

Found these Hondas rotting quietly away and god knows how they got here!

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dXCTm5r/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-dXCTm5r/0/9fe8e1aa/X2/2018-07-17%2018.16.16-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>

Wiseman International Airport and an old Cessna which has been sat here for some time.

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-kNQRtbk/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-kNQRtbk/0/7469d26e/X2/2018-07-17%2018.27.49-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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Nice views to the mountains

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-jvJKNST/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-jvJKNST/0/63e54518/X2/2018-07-17%2018.03.13-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
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A room with a view.....

<a href="https://chrisbiltcliffe.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-JJQxDkM/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/To-Prudhoe/i-JJQxDkM/0/ad6e1e95/X2/2018-07-17%2013.22.48-X2.jpg" alt=""></a>
 


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