Need some advice - from italy...

Thought I should post an update as now back to a very cool and changeable blighty!

I didn't have to get the tank of in the end. The bike stood for a couple of days before the next leg and when plugged in, I had power at the dash/beak accessory socket. My only guess is it was in fact my plug, not the socket... On the way down I hit some really effing shite weather (Ardennes) - hail at one stage that was a good 20mm diameter - I was convinced something was going to break! Anyway, it didn't, but I'm guessing water found its way into my accessory plug and it took a couple of days to dry out...

As for the 'noise'. I've chosen to ignore it! I really caned it on the last 900km (last leg from Germany, home). It sounded the same, but continued to behave perfectly.

The one thing I haven't sorted is the feint smell of oil. This only started after the oil change. Tightened the oil filter - actually, it was OK and didn't need tightening.
So my only thoughts right now - because there is absolute no sign of a leak anywhere after about 3.75k miles in some rather hot weather, that maybe it's coming from the air box? Does the crank breather pass though it? I definitely didn't over fill on the oil change, but it's the first change I've done on this bike, so maybe something odd has gone on?
I did find a very small amount of oil in the cooling fins oil filling side (it's a TC) - from a dribble I guess? So thought I'd found it. But no...

Apart from that. I love the bike . It behaved on boring, long motorway crap down to Germany a fraction under the ton all the way (in Germany of course!). It let me forget the luggage was attached in the mountains and it was great on dry, hot, dusty tracks. Then all again in reverse



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davegs said:

DO NOT tighten the oil filter more than hand tight or you'll never move it when changing time comes around.

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11Nm is the correct torque setting for the filter, never just guess or use old school hand tight method, do it correctly with a torque wrench.

Deleted account 181015001 said:

11Nm is the correct torque setting for the filter, never just guess or use old school hand tight method, do it correctly with a torque wrench.

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Agreed! But when you haven't got a torque wrench...then what?

My hands proved just fine. Proof was when I got to check/tighten it with a torque wrench AND the filter tool - it was pretty much right. In fact, this is the only filter I've used a torque wrench on! I have only ever used my hand, while wearing a rubber glove - please don't take that out of context! -

Any tips on the oil smell?

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Slipperyeel said:

Agreed! But when you haven't got a torque wrench...then what?

My hands proved just fine. Proof was when I got to check/tighten it with a torque wrench AND the filter tool - it was pretty much right. In fact, this is the only filter I've used a torque wrench on! I have only ever used my hand, while wearing a rubber glove - please don't take that out of context! -

Any tips on the oil smell?

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Check on the bit of sump that goes under the gearbox / engine join,

The crank seal or balance shaft seal are weak points and a few drops on the cat or hot exhaust will exacerbate the smell

Deleted account 181015001 said:

11Nm is the correct torque setting for the filter, never just guess or use old school hand tight method, do it correctly with a torque wrench.

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Really? Have a look at the OE 1200 Filter, Its better from the French that is on it,

the instruction is as given as I mentioned above, hand tight plus 3/4 of a turn

Not being a cnut, but When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated ?? do you leave it at 11nm or do you remove the load on the spring each time you use it (as you should do)?

Its hard to beat a manual method were reliance on a tool (which may or may not be incorrect)

DrFarkoff said:

Really? Have a look at the OE 1200 Filter, Its better from the French that is on it,

the instruction is as given as I mentioned above, hand tight plus 3/4 of a turn

Not being a cnut, but When was the last time your torque wrench was calibrated ?? do you leave it at 11nm or do you remove the load on the spring each time you use it (as you should do)?

Its hard to beat a manual method were reliance on a tool (which may or may not be incorrect)

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I get them calibrated at work every six months if out of tolerance they are adjusted or replaced, I am sure you know the torque wrench needs to be unloaded after use.

How often do you get your hand calibrated, is your hand tight the same as mine, will your hand tight be the same at 30 years old as 70 years old?

BMW provide the torque setting in their RSD so that every filter is tightened the same regardless of hand strength if you chose to ignore this that is your choice.

Slipperyeel said:

Agreed! But when you haven't got a torque wrench...then what?

My hands proved just fine. Proof was when I got to check/tighten it with a torque wrench AND the filter tool - it was pretty much right. In fact, this is the only filter I've used a torque wrench on! I have only ever used my hand, while wearing a rubber glove - please don't take that out of context! -

Any tips on the oil smell?

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If you have been working on your bikes and don't have a torque wrench now is the time to get one but you may need more than one to cover the full range of torque settings. If you have one but don't have access you will need to check the filter tightness to what feels right and recheck it later you have no other choice.

The oil smell could be just be because it was very hot if there are no signs of a leak, has it used more oil than normal?

Deleted account 181015001 said:

If you have been working on your bikes and don't have a torque wrench now is the time to get one but you may need more than one to cover the full range of torque settings. If you have one but don't have access you will need to check the filter tightness to what feels right and recheck it later you have no other choice.

The oil smell could be just be because it was very hot if there are no signs of a leak, has it used more oil than normal?

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I have two torque wrenches. In this particular case I was referring only to the oil filter, which I've never torqued before - on any of my bikes, until this one.

I know what you're getting at regarding their use, but years back when I was younger I never used one. I also never ever had a sheared bolt or bolts coming out our parts failing due to wrong torque. Now I use one all the time and even had a small one in my kit for this trip.

I do belive a little mechanical sensitivity and understanding go a long way.

As for the oil, I would have expected it to have gone by now. I don't think it was the heat as I could smell it, feintly, when I arrived at the eurotunnel when heading out. I think I need to get the tank off.

Cheers


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Slipperyeel said:

I have two torque wrenches. In this particular case I was referring only to the oil filter, which I've never torqued before - on any of my bikes, until this one.

I know what you're getting at regarding their use, but years back when I was younger I never used one. I also never ever had a sheared bolt or bolts coming out our parts failing due to wrong torque. Now I use one all the time and even had a small one in my kit for this trip.

I do belive a little mechanical sensitivity and understanding go a long way.

As for the oil, I would have expected it to have gone by now. I don't think it was the heat as I could smell it, feintly, when I arrived at the eurotunnel when heading out. I think I need to get the tank off.

Cheers


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I think one of the reasons the bike manufacturers are stating torque settings for filters is to ensure they don't leak with serious consequences, as you say you have never had a problem with hand tight plus a grunt and a groan so to speak. If my wife used the same hand tight method it would not be as tight as if I did it, 11Nm is enough to stop it leaking and not over tighten and its repeatable regardless who is swinging the spanners.

If you need a torch wrench to fit an oil filter then you'd better step away from all servicing jobs.

If you still have that faint oil smell check the crank position sensor on top of the engine. Sometimes the O ring leaks.

I don't need one, I have the rubber glove . But some seem to!

Bendy toy said:

If you need a torch wrench to fit an oil filter then you'd better step away from all servicing jobs.

If you still have that faint oil smell check the crank position sensor on top of the engine. Sometimes the O ring leaks.

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Interesting idea about the sensor O-ring. I'll take a look. But I've just filled up so will wait a while.

I was out the other day and it seems to have reduced in smell, I think. So either I've got used to it or it is a drop hidden in there from filling and is finally burnt off.




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Deleted account 181015001 said:

I get them calibrated at work every six months if out of tolerance they are adjusted or replaced, I am sure you know the torque wrench needs to be unloaded after use.

How often do you get your hand calibrated, is your hand tight the same as mine, will your hand tight be the same at 30 years old as 70 years old?

BMW provide the torque setting in their RSD so that every filter is tightened the same regardless of hand strength if you chose to ignore this that is your choice.

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You must have a very generous works that will cover the cost of calibrating those wrenches every 6 months.

I used to get a faint oil smell when stationary on my 2011 R1200R....... never did find out why.

When I first got my 2008 I over filled the oil a tad and on a few subsequent rides I got an oil smell when stopped. I got the hang of reading the oil level at temp and not getting too excited at the first sign of level dropping below the top of the sight glass and all has been good since. Between 6000 mile changes I don't need to top up. Someone on here mentioned that their bike uses a drop until about half way in the sight glass and then no more and my results suggest similar.

If I keep mine topped up to top of sight gals it burns oil. If I let it settle to mid sight glass and stop worrying, the level wont change before the next oil change.