1150GSA Leaking Fork Seal

Beancounter

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2005 R1150GS Adventure with a badly leaking fork seal - it's practically pissing out.

Must admit that I didn't realise that telelever forks still had oil in legs, I thought damping was controlled solely by the front shock.

Are replacing these fork seals a relatively straightforward job? I remember doing fork seals on non-telelever forks and they could be a right git to separate because the bushes would wear and then stick together.

Does anyone know what weight oil to use and how much?

Thanks.

😊
 
Beancounter said:
2005 R1150GS Adventure with a badly leaking fork seal - it's practically pissing out.

Must admit that I didn't realise that telelever forks still had oil in legs, I thought damping was controlled solely by the front shock.

Are replacing these fork seals a relatively straightforward job? I remember doing fork seals on non-telelever forks and they could be a right git to separate because the bushes would wear and then stick together.

Does anyone know what weight oil to use and how much?

Thanks.

��
Click to expand...
Easy job, I've changed both at different times and I'm about to replace both this time. The left one is leaking but thought whilst I'm Doug one may as well do the other. The only specialist tool I use is a piece of plastic waste pipe to seat the seals back in the fork leg. If you can use a piece of wood 1" or so thick under the centre stand, means the lower fork legs can be easily slipped off.
 
jefformston said:
If you can use a piece of wood 1" or so thick under the centre stand, means the lower fork legs can be easily slipped off.
Click to expand...

There is no need to remove the lower fork legs. The stanchion pulls out from the top after undoing one nut, this is the only nut/bolt/anything that needs to be removed, nothing else needs to be undone.
The lower slider stays in place.
 
Beancounter said:
Does anyone know what weight oil to use and how much?

Thanks.

😊
Click to expand...

The oil is only there as a lubricant. I use 5W fork oil, which is a bit thin. I guess 10W would be better.

The quantity is 0.47 litres per leg.

The fill plug is at the top of the fixed tube.

The drain plug is at the bottom of the slider. You will have to remove the wheel to access it.

:thumb2
Ian
 
Steptoe said:
There is no need to remove the lower fork legs. The stanchion pulls out from the top after undoing one nut, this is the only nut/bolt/anything that needs to be removed, nothing else needs to be undone.
The lower slider stays in place.
Click to expand...

Didn't take long to do doing my way, but your method looks to be easier again, cheers Steptoe. From memory I already had the front wheel out for a tyre change when I changed the seals the first time, so removing the lower fork leg seemed the way to go and I just did the same the second time around. While I had the lower legs off I give them a god clean out, as the oil had emulsified a bit, and then refilled with new oil. I'll use your method this time.
 
Steptoe said:
There is no need to remove the lower fork legs. The stanchion pulls out from the top after undoing one nut, this is the only nut/bolt/anything that needs to be removed, nothing else needs to be undone.
The lower slider stays in place.
Click to expand...

Do you change the oil as well ?
 
JohnnyBoxer said:
Do you change the oil as well ?
Click to expand...

From my limited experience........When the seal leaks, it not only always oil out, but water in which will emulsify the oil and aid corrosion.

Certainly it was the case with my bike. So to change just the seal is a false economy. It's a good idea to change the oil. The slider with the leak may also benefit from a flush if the oil is really gopping.

Ian
 
Ian J Hartley said:
From my limited experience........When the seal leaks, it not only always oil out, but water in which will emulsify the oil and aid corrosion.

Certainly it was the case with my bike. So to change just the seal is a false economy. It's a good idea to change the oil. The slider with the leak may also benefit from a flush if the oil is really gopping.

Ian
Click to expand...

Best to change oil too
It was rank
 
Thanks folks, fork seals on order. Sounds like a much simpler job than conventional forks. :thumb2:thumb2
 
The easiest bike ever to change fork seals on, done and dusted in an hour. Removing the brown mayonnaise from the bottom of the tubes took the longest.
As there is no spring in there its just air to compress so easily pops out of the top yoke. then you can remove the stanchion.

I did remove the bottom tube as well to make it easier to clean the muck out, even though its not strictly necessary.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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