2004 1150 Cylinder stud torque value ?

golfy1

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Hi all
Am having to replace a cylinder stud (the one from crackcase to cylinder head), but for the life of me I cant find a torque value for this (would do it using the two nut method). From somewhere I recall 24 to 28 lb ft, but cant confirm it. Any suggestions please ?
Thanks
Golfy
 
Having not done it myself, I don't know exactly which bolts you mean but these values are in my manual and I think they're the ones you mean:

Cylinder 8mm bolt: 20Nm
Cylinder 6mm bolt: 10Nm

EDIT: I read your post again and you mention the two-nut method, so I think you're talking about the long bars, threaded on each end. The cylinder head nuts on the other end of them have the following torque values:

1. Tighten cylinder head nuts (oiled) in diagonally opposite sequence
1.1 Tighten all nuts - 20Nm
1.2 Tighten all nuts to correct angle - 90°
1.3 Tighten all nuts to correct angle - 90°

Is it reasonable to assume that if they are torqued at that stage that they don't need to be torqued when inserted into the crank case? If it was mine, I'd probably put thread-locking compound on them (to stop them opening when a cylinder head nut is removed) and tighten them as tight as I can by hand.
 
Hi
Thanks for the info, its actually a 10 mm stud !
I'm OK with the values at the valve end, its getting the stud tight enough into the block that worries me.
Cheers
Golfy :)
 
I dont think the torque setting of the stud itself is important. With most studs I just finger tight and then nip it up a touch.
 
I checked the factory CD and there is no mention.
In the past when I have stripped them they were in the block very tight.
 
My manual says "M10 screw" (I think they mean nut) : 40Nm
That torque will be transferred to the stud so .. wouldn't 40Nm be typical? Hard to imagine it would be higher.
If you want a screen-grab of the manual page let me know.
No mention of loctite BTW
 
Hi Chaps
Thanks for the replies, but i still am no closer to a torque value ! :nenau
I think Adrians suggestion of nipping it finger tight then a little more is about the best option, after all i can always tighten it more if needs be, but too tight and............no, not even going there !
Will let you all know how it goes :blagblah
Cheers
 
AdrianS said:
I dont think the torque setting of the stud itself is important. With most studs I just finger tight and then nip it up a touch.
Click to expand...

This ^^^ when you tighten the Exhaust securing nut it will apply enough clamping torque Don't use the double nut approach either imho
 
golfy1 said:
Hi Chaps
Thanks for the replies, but i still am no closer to a torque value ! :nenau
Click to expand...

It's a stud into an engine case. The torque required comes from the cylinderhead securing nuts. You need depth.
 
Hi all, again many thanks especially Steptoe.:beerjug:
Particularity grateful for the "clamping" explanation, obvious when you think about it !. One of the many benefits of having generous experienced people here for us enthusiastic amateurs.
Soon as the new head arrives, will be putting it all together.
Just got to replace the oil filler cap seal in the valve cover now...............:augie
Golfy
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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