Top Dead Centre Tool - 2017 R1200GS Adventure

.... and they all lived together happily ever after....

<a href="https://martinshakespeare.smugmug.com/General-Stuff/i-PxRXrHR/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/General-Stuff/i-PxRXrHR/0/d327158c/X3/IMG_0713-X3.jpg" alt=""></a>
 
ShakeyBMW said:
.... and they all lived together happily ever after....

<a href="https://martinshakespeare.smugmug.com/General-Stuff/i-PxRXrHR/A"><img src="https://photos.smugmug.com/General-Stuff/i-PxRXrHR/0/d327158c/X3/IMG_0713-X3.jpg" alt=""></a>
Click to expand...

Just reminded me Martin, I aint got my snapon yet, must follow up.............;) and sandwich box.
 
Smogbob said:
Just reminded me Martin, I aint got my snapon yet, must follow up.............;) and sandwich box.
Click to expand...

Being a tool freak, I must admit that i love the way BMW builds their special tools. The way it's polished, and with a smooth finish. It's jewelry for grown men. :beerjug:
 
DIY Cam Chain Tensioner...292

Hello All...
I finally finished up with my DIY replacement for the Cam Chain Tensioner BMW part #83300444292

I'm going to start working on a DIY version of the Alignment pin that fits into one of the 2 slots that are 8mm wide on the alternator rotor that we use to lock the crankshaft and entire valve train. BMW part #83302327790. I think it will be easier than finding something that worked for the ....292.

Hope this helps someone looking for the tools to do the WetHead Cam Timing Check.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ts_LP-1rr0
 
Boxflyer said:
Hello All...
I finally finished up with my DIY replacement for the Cam Chain Tensioner BMW part #83300444292

I'm going to start working on a DIY version of the Alignment pin that fits into one of the 2 slots that are 8mm wide on the alternator rotor that we use to lock the crankshaft and entire valve train. BMW part #83302327790. I think it will be easier than finding something that worked for the ....292.

Hope this helps someone looking for the tools to do the WetHead Cam Timing Check.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ts_LP-1rr0
Click to expand...

Great stuff :thumb
 
One of my mates (2014 GSA) is going to try my tools in the next few weeks to do the cam alignment and valve checks.

Not quite sure if I'll be doing his before I do mine... it'll be close :D
 
Warlord said:
One of my mates (2014 GSA) is going to try my tools in the next few weeks to do the cam alignment and valve checks.

Not quite sure if I'll be doing his before I do mine... it'll be close :D
Click to expand...

After the brilliant videos by BoxFlyer it all seems a lot easier now, however plenty of time left for me.........:D
 
If I hadn't retired already, I'd be able to fly a trip over to near you, as well as Warlord, and do a demo 20k KM service WITH you so you could feel more confident doing them on your own after that.
 
Boxflyer said:
If I hadn't retired already, I'd be able to fly a trip over to near you, as well as Warlord, and do a demo 20k KM service WITH you so you could feel more confident doing them on your own after that.
Click to expand...

That would've been brilliant :D
 
Done mine this morning. Both sides were a smidgeon out of alignment so I corrected them for the practice.
I had to use a small 1/4” drive socket to apply enough torque to the chain tensior because of my arthritic hands but apart from that it was fairly straightforward.
I note my TDC tool isn’t marked A / B on the ends and I’m ashamed to say I used the 6mm end for the first cylinder so had to do it again :blast
 
Boxflyer said:
Hello All...
I finally finished up with my DIY replacement for the Cam Chain Tensioner BMW part #83300444292

I'm going to start working on a DIY version of the Alignment pin that fits into one of the 2 slots that are 8mm wide on the alternator rotor that we use to lock the crankshaft and entire valve train. BMW part #83302327790. I think it will be easier than finding something that worked for the ....292.

Hope this helps someone looking for the tools to do the WetHead Cam Timing Check.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ts_LP-1rr0
Click to expand...

Sir, I admire your videos hugely and all respect to your abilities.

However, I am not entirely convinced by this attempt to replace the BMW tensioning tool
The bmw tool applies a given force for the chain - limited by the "clicking" slip given a consistent torque on the bolt and therefore force on the chain via the spring.

Your method appears to count revolutions of a bolt, which will cause a given displacement. Whilst in the example you chose it may apply the same force in the specific case, if you were to apply the same displacement on another bike, there would be no guarantee that the same pressure was achieved. The chain may be slightly longer/stretched.

You appear to need to use the BMW service tool to calibrate how many turns your tool needs. Could you not use a torque on the bolt rather than a fixed number of turns?

Happy to be corrected if I have mis-understood
 
jimbo said:
Sir, I admire your videos hugely and all respect to your abilities.

However, I am not entirely convinced by this attempt to replace the BMW tensioning tool
The bmw tool applies a given force for the chain - limited by the "clicking" slip given a consistent torque on the bolt and therefore force on the chain via the spring.

Your method appears to count revolutions of a bolt, which will cause a given displacement. Whilst in the example you chose it may apply the same force in the specific case, if you were to apply the same displacement on another bike, there would be no guarantee that the same pressure was achieved. The chain may be slightly longer/stretched.

You appear to need to use the BMW service tool to calibrate how many turns your tool needs. Could you not use a torque on the bolt rather than a fixed number of turns?

Happy to be corrected if I have mis-understood
Click to expand...

Jimbo, something to debate on Friday night. Or maybe not. &#55358;&#56611;
 
jimbo said:
Sir, I admire your videos hugely and all respect to your abilities.

However, I am not entirely convinced by this attempt to replace the BMW tensioning tool
The bmw tool applies a given force for the chain - limited by the "clicking" slip given a consistent torque on the bolt and therefore force on the chain via the spring.

Your method appears to count revolutions of a bolt, which will cause a given displacement. Whilst in the example you chose it may apply the same force in the specific case, if you were to apply the same displacement on another bike, there would be no guarantee that the same pressure was achieved. The chain may be slightly longer/stretched.

You appear to need to use the BMW service tool to calibrate how many turns your tool needs. Could you not use a torque on the bolt rather than a fixed number of turns?

Happy to be corrected if I have mis-understood
Click to expand...

Hello jimbo...I guess this is my attempt to have a long distance "debate on a Friday night" as ChazzyB has suggested...I really wish I could do this in person! Make sure you have a comfortable place to sit while you drill thru this overly long explanation...!

You are correct on several points, so I hope you don't think I'm being defensive for the sake of "pride of ownership" of this tool. Understanding some of the earlier attempts to make a tool that can be used in place of the "292" tool might help.

I first used a plastic insert of a specific length to replace the OEM small spring in the oil pressure cam tensioner. Because there are 102 elements on the RH cam chain (shorter because it's drive is from the crankshaft) and there are 106 elements on the LH chain (longer because its drive is off the compensating shaft below the crank and is a further run out to the LH cams) I could measure the extended length of the "292" tool at 3 clicks for each side and found that the LH side needed a 2mm longer spacer. I used these pieces of plastic inserts on 2 other bikes to get some consistency of results. On the second one, I just talked the owner (a competent home mechanic) thru the procedure as if I was going to present it on a YouTube video. This is when we found out that if the plastic gets slightly out of alignment in the barrel of the OEM tensioner, that it can be crushed by the inner machined edges of the OEM tensioner piston or base, either one...rendering the measurement inaccurate and giving a false alignment of the cams. This method also placed lots of stress on the threads of the cylinder, being the softer aluminum vs steel cut threads of the OEM tensioner.

Then I machined two double-ended pointed steel inserts (LH needed to be 2mm longer) that avoided the likelihood of "cockeyed" placement of this internal spacer and yielded the same overall dimension as measured with the "292" tool at the 3 clicks. This steel insert was for all intents and purposes incompressible compared to the slightly compressive nature of the previous plastic insert. The bottom line, I discovered, of this material was that the plastic insert allowed for a small range of working pressure on the slack side of the chain and the steel insert had to be tailored exactly to the bike I was working on. Even the difference of 1/6th of a turn of the OEM tensioner (one flat of the hex head) would make a difference as to whether or not the alignment jig would fit. As you said, the bike to bike variances would prevent this from being a viable solution unless you could do a reference check against a know "292" tool every time. What's the point if you have to have a "292" tool anyway. Additionally, this tool also placed unwanted stress/wear on the threads in the cylinder.

I also tried your other suggestion of measuring the torque on the advancing part of any tool that is applying the pressure on the bottom chain.
The issues/problems started to become evident when it is observed just how little bolt torque is required to tension the slack side of the cam chain...whether it is on the "292" tool knob, or the threads on the OEM cam tensioner with a fixed spacer, or the inner bolt of the device I have made for the video. First, there are so many variables like thread pitch, friction, or other mechanical differences, and then it's just such a small figure in terms of how few Nm force is required to tension the cam chain, that it's below the range of calibration accuracy on any "normal" mechanics torque wrench. Maybe a scientific lab can measure rotational resistance in such small units, but I don't think it's feasible for any home mechanic.

I also was able to correctly tension/stretch the upper cam chain to match the results of the "292" tool with a 3ft section of steel channel iron that I drilled holes in to allow one end to be pinned to the cam chain sprocket and then suspended a fixed weight at a specific measured distance from the center of rotation. This beam was parallel to the floor so its effort would be repeatable. This I deemed to be too cumbersome and it truly looked like something rigged up in "Rube Goldberg's garage"... I feared I would drop a bolt or nut or other pinning device holding the beam to the chain sprocket down into the bowels of the engine and I would be pissed (mad as hell, not drunk) for days! I have pictures of this beam sticking out 3 feet from the side of the bike with a couple of gallon jugs of water hanging at just the right distance from the pivot point to achieve repeatable results...I am too embarrassed to publish them as it looks so "hokey"!

The real goal here is to make something as mechanically similar as possible to the "292" tool. I also have seen that there is a nice "range" of effective pressure placed on the lower cam chain with a spring doing the work. This will allow for the small variations between bikes, and for wear/stretch (which I think will be determined over time to be negligible).
I used this website to get an approximation of spring characteristics that I needed to do the same work as the "292" tool and fit into the existing OEM cam chain tensioner.
https://www.acxesspring.com/spring-calculator.html
I almost wore off my sideburns scratching my head so much trying to work thru the calculations, then scouring the WWW for a spring source that would match what the above referenced spring calculator said I needed...at age 64, I'm already running low on my originally issued brain cells and all I really want to do is make something so I can check my bike and get out and ride-ride-ride!

I appreciate your input and take it as constructive criticism in the effort to help anyone that is looking for the "292" tool and needs to perform the 20k service.

Hope this helps someone and sheds some light on the process behind the result I put forward in the YouTube video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4Ts_LP-1rr0
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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