Motorworks rebuildable driveshaft

Get a rebuild price from Mike at Overland & Classic and you may decide to keep your old driveshaft.
 
Rebuildable item is Emerald Isle - Ei. Thread on another forum about them here:

https://advrider.com/index.php?threads/paralever-rebuildable-driveshaft-experience.1265111/

More details about the item here:

http://www.beemershop.com/Merchant5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=TRA06394A

It arrived yesterday. Seems decent quality. One simple data point is that BMW item weights 2.1kg while Ei weighs 2.3kg, which is more than i expected given the smaller cush drive means it looks less substantial.

Unfortunately it has to go back to Motorworks as one of the two UJs is tight - there must have been an error when it was built. Shame, as bike still in bits, and it seemed a decent bit of kit
 
How Much!

Thats a lot of money for a drive shaft,:eek:

I had a price to be rebuilt locally for £150,
got one of ebay for £80 its still in there 50k later.
 
It's about 20-25% cheaper than the BMW item

Did you have the cush drive rebuilt as well? My understanding is that it can't be rebuilt on the BMW part, but I could be wrong
 
Fitted today. Seems pretty good. Snap ring was a pita though - was clearly too small so wouldn't locate on output shaft. When I looked into end drive shaft I could see the outside edge of the snap ring at one end. In the end I removed it, opened it slightly, refitted it and then the drive shaft located with a firm tap.

One question I have is the service intervals for the drive shaft. Haven't found any info. It comes with a spare set of cush drive rubbers so I assume the service intervals can't be that far apart or they wouldn't supply them. Any ideas?
 
NicD said:
One question I have is the service intervals for the drive shaft. Haven't found any info. It comes with a spare set of cush drive rubbers so I assume the service intervals can't be that far apart or they wouldn't supply them. Any ideas?
Click to expand...

Change the final drive oil the old fashioned way (undo the Paralever and drop the drive over). This lets you get at the drive shaft to work the bearings around and redistribute the grease. You get a similar effect on the Paralever "trunnion" so it's a win win. All of these bearings should be well packed with grease. All they do is rock back & forth so the standard advice for rolling bearings (50% full) leaves these rollers running dry.

In the very old days all "Hardy Spicer" joints came with a grease nipple so they could be topped up when the suspension was greased. BMW prefer to sell new parts so such delights are not possible.
 
The Ei rebuildable driveshaft that Motorworks sells does have re-greasable UJs. They are Ina brand (owned by Conti) and have grease nipples.

I'm still keen to find out about service interval for cush drive as the driveshaft comes with a second set of rubbers and retaining circlip, but no guidance on how long their rubbers might last
 
Grease nipples are great because the small movement of the bearings in a driveshaft coupling will quickly scrape away the grease leaving the contact points running dry. Packing them with grease helps to reduce that effect. But it's a (very) not low cost option.

It's well worth changing the final drive oil when you do the engine oil so the drive shaft can be checked when that's done.
 
Definitely makes sense to regrease periodically. Final drive oil is a separate item on 08 bike as has drain and fill holes at 12 and 6 o'clock
 
NicD said:
Definitely makes sense to regrease periodically. Final drive oil is a separate item on 08 bike as has drain and fill holes at 12 and 6 o'clock
Click to expand...

Yes, with the drain plug you can change the oil quickly. But dropping the FD backwards fully exercises the suspension bearings and recirculates the grease under the needle rollers. A bit more hassle but well worth doing.
 
Yes it is worth doing. But it is not a necessary step in changing the oil as you wrote! It is a separate action
 
Main change I have noticed is the throttle on/off is less jerky than it was previously. Before I replaced the drive shaft this issue frustrated me, and no one could give me a reason for the issue. Seems likely now that it was the knackered cush drive. Good to know for future reference
 
NicD said:
Yes it is worth doing. But it is not a necessary step in changing the oil as you wrote! It is a separate action
Click to expand...

If you had an earlier 1200 the only way to change the oil was to swing the final drive backwards so it could be seen as all part of the same job. In my opinion BMW's fitting drain plugs will have led to increased wear of suspension bearings. At 50K mine were totally shot and in a horrible state. I only started to do the swing back method after they were replaced. I also packed the bearings to the brim with grease. They don't rotate so the grease has not been pushed out.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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