Oilhead newbie

Mark Hooton

Cymarcbikeparts
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Hi all, I’m tiding up an old RT for a good friend.

It’s a bit of a mess but I’m going to do my best for him.

The bike is ex police (if that has any bearing) and I’m after some kindly suggestions on what I need to check and look out for from the respected guys who know what they are talking about.

One thing (and I bet it’s bloody obvious) I’ve come across during the strip down is the foot peg holding pin - is it shouldered as it simply refuses to knock out. It can be seen in the bottom RH corner of the photo.

I’d also be very thankful if anyone can recommend a really good alloy wheel cleaner as there’s wheels are in a bad way!

Any pointers muchly appreciated as I move forward on this ‘would you just’ task from a good friend!
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My suggestions
1. Flush all the fluids (especially brake and clutch - do them twice !)
2. Cable tie the right hand black side panel (DAMHIK!)
3. Fit the revised 15mm head LH cam tensioner
4. Oil the throttle cables at the injector end
5. Remove the brass screws on injectors and flush out with carb cleaner
6. replace the weird BMW bleed nipple on the clutch with a standard 10x1
7. Ride it !
8. Flush the brake lines again........
 
Wheels,solvol and a tooth brush!
A good length of old tee shirt material
And a good few hours of elbow grease,however the spokes and nipples will still look crap.
If his pockets are deep enough try to talk him into getting them rebuilt.
As the rims are far easier to polish once dismantled.
 
Excellent advice already guys - very many thanks - being an oilhead newbie (and then only to help a mate out) I really am clueless on these beasts!


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I dont think RTs ever came with spoked wheels. Why not buy a used set of alloys. They are so much easier to keep looking decent anyway.
If brake hoses are original I would definitely change them.
 
If you can stomach the extra work, remove the clutch slave from the back of the gearbox & check the bearing where the clutch push rod seats. These are a common fail point & lead to clutch contamination, which is a big job.
If the clutch fluid is black, it’s likely the bearing is already on its way out.


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I dont think RTs ever came with spoked wheels. Why not buy a used set of alloys. They are so much easier to keep looking decent anyway.
If brake hoses are original I would definitely change them.

French Police 1100 / 850 Rt's came with spoked wheels
 
French Police 1100 / 850 Rt's came with spoked wheels

As did the UK police bikes.

The spoked wheels are worth far more than the cast wheels due all the hipsters wanting them for their "special" builds.
Sell the spoked, buy cast and trouser a few hundred quid for your troubles.
 
Actually I don’t know - the owner is awaybon your at the moment soz for appearing to look like a buffoon (like usual :) but I really know nothing of this early model


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Definitely worth checking the clutch slave cyl.

Original flexible brake hoses? Replace them with braided.
Clean and lube the gear linkage.
Releasing fluid on exhaust header stud. Prone to shearing.
Rear brake bleed nipple likely to be seized. Don't panic - s/s nipple and insert available
Remove vacuum take off bungs on throttle bodies when spraying them with carb cleaner.
Strip and clean starter motor esp. if it sounds slow or under strain.
 
Tips from golfy1 and 2WheelsGood are absolutely spot-on, as is the suggestion from Buckingham to see to that pesky slave cylinder for the hydraulically-actuated single-plate dry clutch - like a classic Morris Mini Minor dry clutch but back-to-front and without a stabilising thrust bearing - why ?

And Mark, if you're anywhere near Lunnun and you need something proper doing to your bike, go see The Oracle near the Robin Hood roundabout, Neil at the GSshop.biz.
He's 'buena gente', as we say here in Spain.

AL on the Andalucían Med coast
 
All very good recommendations, thanks to all - I think I’ve now trebled the hours I need to spend on this brute!
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I used to use wonderwheels on alloys,

Its a chem based cleaner which will foam ups and remove all manner of crap,

however if the laquer is penetrated, it will lift loose paint etc.

If you go down the solvol route, it's a very very very long hard slog. ;)
 
Yes I’m aware of that - tbh I want to avoid that. I’d rather clean them best I can then stick ACF50 on them (my mate wants it for a winter hack)


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i used to use Wondwheels on car alloys, it will strip all manner of crap.

It's chemical based - apply, agitate, leave & rinse.

it will lift loose paint, so if the wheels have have been painted and there furring underneath, the loose stuff will come away.

If your going down the autosol route, its a bloody long slog ;)

re your foot reet, if ive i.d it correctly its just an 8mm pin with a split pin at the end

https://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/showparts?id=0459-EUR-07-1995-2478-BMW-R_100_RT&diagId=46_0157

Put a 8mm bolt on the end and give it a whack
 
Best you Google "Wonderwheels" before use, can turn bare alloy dull grey, contains acid (Phosphoric acid IIRC)
 
All very good recommendations, thanks to all - I think I’ve now trebled the hours I need to spend on this brute!

Well from your pic its an 1100 The swingarm gives it away 1150 is much more curvy

If I recall the front wheel is an 18 inch ?

Check bearing at the clutch pivot arm and the arm for being bent The have a habit of going ping at the most inopportune moments

Black plastic front cover over alternator belt bolts have a habit of seizing and you really should check the alt belt and also fuel filter ??

Transmission fluids as per hexheads should be GL5 spec
 


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