The Twin Cam seems to get the nod on the GS, but reviews on the RT seem to lean towards the LC. Which is the better engine in an RT?
Both totally different, I ride TCs and own an LC RT. Like them both, but to me, the LC RT is a much smoother ride and I like it a lot, 17k in two years. But I would own either model
The Twin Cam seems to get the nod on the GS, but reviews on the RT seem to lean towards the LC. Which is the better engine in an RT?
Your question was about the engine.
If it is about just the engine, then the LC wins hands down. It is more flexible, more torque and more power. Also better economy.
The debate moved on from just engine because the ergonomics on the LC are cramped for a tall, long legged person. My knees don't meet the cut outs, so lower pegs would be needed just to fit.
The LC has a wet clutch which has s smooth almost imperceptible change when cold, but once warm there is a significant clunck into first gear from neutral
Even holding in the clutch for a few seconds and pre-loading the gear lever before pushing in down does not seem to help.
Both these methods seem to work on the GSA TC where the dry clutch set up seems much smoother from neutral to first gear.
On the TC, I like the principle that the gearbox runs in a more specific thicker oil designed for the application.
To me, running the gearbox of the LC in 5w40 oil from the engine seems a backward step in terms of smoothness, however I know it is necessary for the wet clutch set up.
Beyond this, the gear change on the LC seems a tad smoother in higher gears & the quick shifter is sublime on the upshift.
Hi bandytales,
Just wondered what your thoughts are on the potential for damage or excessive wear resulting from the clunk in the long term. When stopped for example at traffic lights it is tempting to hold the clutch in to avoid putting in neutral & hence the clunk, but this can also have detrimental effects in the long term. Which is the lesser of the 2 evils ?
For the once the "They all do that sir" bit is pretty accurate. I don't like it, & if waiting at a pelican crossing say, where you know you won't be stationary for too long, I do hold the clutch in, whereas previously I'd happily have selected neutral. It's how they are, as were the K1200/1300 range.Had a road test on a demo RT the other day with 2000m on clock. All gears up and down ok and lovely smooth but 1st gear when stopped and re engaging is just like some one has hammered it home with sledge hammer. Whole bike shudders and jumps as it goes in gear not good at all. Definitely not good for drive line having such a sudden load almost like knocking into first without clutch in...
To prempt the learn how to change gear they all do that etc. Have had 1100/1150RT, 1150GSA and current 1200GS along with other flavours from the BM range 1200LT, 1200GT old and newer and R1200R so familiar with the BMW clunky box. Also usually had other bikes at same time Honda, Triumph so on. This is not a clunk but produces a noise and feel like the guys who used to knock the wedges out of launching ships used to get when the hit the chain locks away. Really made me think about getting one. Going to try another couple over next week or so, see if it was just that on.