What model year did the Hexhead change to a Twin cam ?
And what years to avoid?
And what years to avoid?
What year?
- Thread starter Santa-2512
- Start date
First year of the Twin Cam was 2010. Years to avoid....? 
What model year did the Hexhead change to a Twin cam ?
And what years to avoid?
2010 onwards, nothing to avoid as the model was fully developed by that time, 2012 gs and 2013 gsa were run out models and came with a lot of what were originally extras as standard equipment
I take it your current bike isn’t worth keeping when there are so many tempting offers ??
Twin cams are IMHO the best, if my ‘08 needed replacing it’s what I would buy.
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Twin cams are IMHO the best, if my ‘08 needed replacing it’s what I would buy.
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Bendy toy
Registered user
The 08/09 has the single cam engine with most of the twin cam improvements. Ignoring the fuel strip, the biggest snag was frame corrosion but even that's fixable. Mine was powder coated with conductive zinc undercoat and no signs of any trouble since then. Hot zinc metal spray would be just as good and possibly better but needs more prep work for a good finish.
Just keeping my options open,. I have a green light to change, just trying to see what works,. I like the bike, I'm just seeing if a later one would be better
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roamer
Registered user
I missed my 2011 tc gsa, great bike, no corrosion but i do clean mine often,,
Just swapped to an r 9 t , so back to the tc motor ,,,
Just swapped to an r 9 t , so back to the tc motor ,,,
Just keeping my options open,. I have a green light to change, just trying to see what works,. I like the bike, I'm just seeing if a later one would be better
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Get the latest year twin cam your budget can stretch to. You won’t be disappointed.
If a TC triple black came up at a good price, I’d get one for the winter, while I’m waiting for my next bike.
Bendy toy
Registered user
The 08 and 09 were the worst for paint problems but they pretty much had the mechanical issues sorted.
With the twin cam came updated ESA, improved gearbox and final drive..2011 model year had changes in the final drive breather and I think replaced the fuel strip with a good old float type fuel gauge....crude but worked. as Nutty says....if you are not taken with the GSA then the best is a 2012 Tirple Black GS. More useable than the GSA IMO.
A rather sweeping generalisation, on what evidence?
Based on his own experience, his bike was rusty and needed fixing when he bought it.
In comparison, mine is a 2008 GSA and yet has only had some very slight rusting to the rear subframe beneath the seat lock mechanism mounting rubbers where water gets trapped, easily fixed with a rub down and touch-up.
I don’t subscribe to the view they are all bad, but accept that some left the factory with a thin finish to the subframe.
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Bendy toy
Registered user
That's the one. My brother also had a 2008 Adventure which was also poorly finished (though mine was much worse) and from time to time folks on here have moaned about them being worse than their earlier 1200 or 1150.
Was mine badly looked after? The coaters were amazed at how quickly the original paint fell off in the "Biostrip" tank. It was very thin and there was no visible undercoat. There was rust everywhere even under the seat mounting rubbers where no salt or water could ever reach. This was the black painted front and the back subframes. In contrast the engine front cover (corroded around the mounting screws) was in the stripping tank for four days.
I would say don't let the issue stop you buying a bike with poor paint just allow for the costs of refinishing. The damage was never structural. The back frame is easy to remove. The front less-so but does give the excuse to replace the steering bearing and get to the engine top if needed.
Powder coat would need a conductive zinc undercoat or even better have it hot zinc metal sprayed and painted. Plain powder (in my experience) does not prevent existing rust from returning.
FWIW I also dislike powder coat as it hides underlying corrosion and surface imperfections if the structure beneath isn't perfectly prepped beforehand, allowing it to spread unchecked beneath.
When I worked for an international industrial cooling company we had a very large in-house powder coating line running 24/7. Some of our product based on rooftops for years would slowly revert to an awful powdery dull finish which I would get covered in from panels during service visits.
When I rebuilt my early R1 I had both corroded wheels powder coated in high gloss black. They started to lose their gloss after about 18 months where a two pack paint finish would have stayed high gloss.
I'm not a fan, good paint finishes are better IMO.
When I worked for an international industrial cooling company we had a very large in-house powder coating line running 24/7. Some of our product based on rooftops for years would slowly revert to an awful powdery dull finish which I would get covered in from panels during service visits.
When I rebuilt my early R1 I had both corroded wheels powder coated in high gloss black. They started to lose their gloss after about 18 months where a two pack paint finish would have stayed high gloss.
I'm not a fan, good paint finishes are better IMO.
Has anyone seen any decent Twin cam triple blacks for sale lately?
One on Gumtree right now with less than 11k miles with luggage for £7500.....sounds like a lot of bike for the money to me.
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