Reinstalling LH Camchain Tensioner 2010 GSA (twin-cam)

Treksec

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Guys,

After putting up with a minor leak from the LH Camchain Tensioner, I finally decided to replace the crush washer and tighten the bolt down properly.

Getting it out was a pig of a job. Getting it back in is not happening for me, the spring keeps the bolt under so much tension I can't get enough downward pressure in the confined space available to get the bolt started on the tread. Any ideas?

Cheers
Bill
 

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Thanks Smogbob, but that's the 1150, the twin cam 1200 has a one piece (no sliding parts) piston with a spring :eek:
 
Could be wrong,

But on some automotive applications, the oil hole in the side often serves two purposes.

1) A lubrication feed / return hole

2) An assembly aid - The tensioner is compressed, and a small pin / rod is inserted into the hole. - it passes through a similar hole on the piston and locks the piston in the fully tensioned position.

Once a few turns have been made on the tensioner to get the thread started, the rod / pin is removed, and the the tensioner fully tightened
 
Thanks Santa 2512,

Unfortunately there are no corresponding holes in the piston and when fully compressed the piston and spring are not visible through the holes. It seems the guide for the spring is further down the inner tube of the bolt.

Any reference to it I see in workshop manuals would suggest it's done with the engine on a bench! :blast

Bill
 
Treksec said:
Thanks Santa 2512,

Unfortunately there are no corresponding holes in the piston and when fully compressed the piston and spring are not visible through the holes. It seems the guide for the spring is further down the inner tube of the bolt.

Any reference to it I see in workshop manuals would suggest it's done with the engine on a bench! :blast

Bill
Click to expand...

So question would be, why would the engine have to be on a bench...................
 
Treksec said:
Thanks Santa 2512,

Unfortunately there are no corresponding holes in the piston and when fully compressed the piston and spring are not visible through the holes. It seems the guide for the spring is further down the inner tube of the bolt.

Any reference to it I see in workshop manuals would suggest it's done with the engine on a bench! :blast

Bill
Click to expand...

Will this help pictures showing how to get at the bolt, it is for a 2001model but might give an idea

https://advrider.com/f/threads/cam-chain-tensioner-replacement-photo-journal.69360/

https://advrider.com/f/threads/cam-chain-tensioner-replacement-photo-journal.69360/page-5
 
Smogbob,

I bow to your engineering wisdom. As I am a DIY type (Dismantled It Yesterday) it didn't occur to me that the tension on the cam chain at the current crankshaft position may be the root of my woes. I'll try turning the crankshaft and see if that helps. :beerjug:
 
Guys,

Thanks to all for your your input. Confession time - schoolboy error.

I have the Haynes manual for the earlier R1200 twins, not the twin cam models and foolishly referred to it for advice. Neither the earlier manual, nor any nuggets/videos I could find on the web, advise that on the twin cam models (pre-LC) it is essential to have the LH piston at TDC on the compression stroke, otherwise the resistance from the tension on the upper run of the cam chain cannot be overcome. The Haynes manual for the twin cams emphasises this.

It still takes something like a tyre level to get some downward pressure on the head of the bolt after attaching a 15mm ratchet ring spanner, and a fair bit of elbow grease to tighten it down, but it's done now. :JB
 
Treksec said:
Guys,

Thanks to all for your your input. Confession time - schoolboy error.

I have the Haynes manual for the earlier R1200 twins, not the twin cam models and foolishly referred to it for advice. Neither the earlier manual, nor any nuggets/videos I could find on the web, advise that on the twin cam models (pre-LC) it is essential to have the LH piston at TDC on the compression stroke, otherwise the resistance from the tension on the upper run of the cam chain cannot be overcome. The Haynes manual for the twin cams emphasises this.

It still takes something like a tyre level to get some downward pressure on the head of the bolt after attaching a 15mm ratchet ring spanner, and a fair bit of elbow grease to tighten it down, but it's done now. :JB
Click to expand...

And that is the main thing, its done, and well done, at least you done it yourself...............:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2:thumb2
 
Treksec said:
Smogbob,

I bow to your engineering wisdom. As I am a DIY type (Dismantled It Yesterday) it didn't occur to me that the tension on the cam chain at the current crankshaft position may be the root of my woes. I'll try turning the crankshaft and see if that helps. :beerjug:
Click to expand...

If only, I am just as DIY as yourself.............:D just love having a go at it.
 
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