Hmmm,the ST

New wheel spindle arrived from leisure trail,
Was looking for a SH one on eBay but most of the robdogs wanted more than a brand new one from a dealer.
Always worth checking.:p
 

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New wheel spindle arrived from leisure trail,
Was looking for a SH one on eBay but most of the robdogs wanted more than a brand new one from a dealer.
Always worth checking.:p

Mikey,

Having seen your awesome lair, I’m surprised you don’t make them, what am I missing ? Isn’t is just a bar with a thread at either end ?
 
Ktm spindle is hollow and large diameter.
It weighs next to nothing.
If I was a brill machinist(which I’m not),
It would prob take two hours to make plus materials.
One from the dealer is £40 plus vat.
So new spindle,nut,spacers £70
Not worth the bother
eBayers are wanting this much for a damaged/rusty/nackered one.
Shiney,I like shiney.:p
 
Ktm spindle is hollow and large diameter.
It weighs next to nothing.
If I was a brill machinist(which I’m not),
It would prob take two hours to make plus materials.
One from the dealer is £40 plus vat.
So new spindle,nut,spacers £70
Not worth the bother
are wanting this much for a damaged/rusty/nackered one.
Shiney,I like shiney.:p

Hmm.. never considers them being hollow. Thanks.
 
Mikeyboy. I'm just about to go trough an early 3-lug 37/11 bevel drive for a RTW trip.
When changing bearings, do you do a reshim at the same time?
Also. Can you refer to a good "guide"/reading material for reshimming a bevel drive?

Cheers from Denmark.
 
The Clymer manual has the details , and the list of special tools that you need for a complete rebuild.
Haynes says don't touch them and he is probably right.

There are reputedly two types of FD, one with a needle roller at the shaft side and one with a taper roller - I have only seen the needle roller type.

There are shims / spacers both sides, on the drive shaft side the spacers are selectively fitted to give the correct wipe pattern/ backlash between the crown wheel and pinion, and on the wheel side to adjust the clearance on the large output bearing. Clymer has the details.

To set the output bearing clearance I made up a slide fitting spacer the same size as the output bearing and measured the gap with Plastigauge - it melts above around 40c so I had to pick a cool day.

You can remove the cap on the shaft side and in theory measure end float from there, but I didnt find out the cap came off until later.

If you only do the output bearing the new one will be the same width as the old one, so if the end float was OK you might get away without a reshim, but you could say the same for a new output bearing on a gearbox and most folk seem to reshim them.

On all the FDs I have worked on the output bearing has been loose in the cover and has needed Loctite bearing mount, probably best to use it anyway, as the bearing will never be as tight the second time.

Take note of where the oil seal sits before you remove it, as there is no shoulder to drive it against, and it is easy to drive it too far.
 
The bling fairy popped by today,:D
Lovely stainless breather and top yoke nut,shaw stainless :cool:
 

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I also bit the bullet and ordered a migsel stand ,as I couldn’t find a SH one.
If I’m honest,I’m a bit disappointed with the finish,considering how much they cost:blast
 

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So I media blasted,then aquablasted it.
Looks loads better.:p
If you are reading this mr migsel,you need to finish the job properly if you want to charge £240 for a sidestand
 

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On a brighter note,I have a swinging arm and propshaft back from Richie Moore.
Proper job:bow
 

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I also bit the bullet and ordered a migsel stand ,as I couldn’t find a SH one.
If I’m honest,I’m a bit disappointed with the finish,considering how much they cost:blast

Looking at it, i'd hazard a guess, that Mikeyboy industries could fabricate & produce something far more elegant for half the price ;)

Whilst i admire the engineering aproach to the stand (threaded rod) i cant help feel it looks a bit HR

**Edit - you posted pics after i started this reply**

Yes looks loads better after MI got to work ;)
 


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