RDGA and Vercors 2018

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Firstly my apologies for the delayed report as 2 full weeks have now passed since we returned, I've noticed of late that the pre-emptive ride report seems to be de rigour on these pages of late, something along the lines of "my bags are packed we leave in 6 months" but I digress and apologise again for the more traditional post ride trip report.
The planning (such it was) fell to me, I've fancied the Balcony Roads of the Vercors for some time https://www.dangerousroads.org/europe/france.html
but was unsure that we could make a week of it in that are alone so added a loop in South East France and Route de Grand Alpes for good measure.
Four of us were booked onto the whole 9 (was going to be 10) day trip; myself, cookie, Oscar and Dave with Mark and Sean joining us mid trip for a day in the Vercors and the staggered journey back North to the ferry port, the bikes were 3 x GS LC Rallye, 1 x 09 GSA, 1 x KTM 1190R and 1 x 1200GSA LC iconic.
The four of us arranged to meet at Portsmouth Brittany Ferries terminal for the overnight crossing to Le Havre crossing which departed at 23.30 on Thurs Sept 13th the 08.30 arrival the following morning would give us a fighting chance of reaching the first hotel booked on the South shore of Lake Geneva the following day some 520 miles away.
I grabbed some supper to eat whilst awaiting the arrival of my travelling companions
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They arrived too late to share much to Oscar's obvious disgust
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We were soon aboard the Baie De Seine part of Brittany Ferries "Economie" service where we had 2 cabins booked, we were aboard by 10pm ish and had a couple in the bar :beerjug:

Day1 Friday Sept 14th; Destination Mellerie on the South shore of Lac Leman, Garmin suggests 527 miles or a possibly optimistic 7 hours 45 minutes, we shall see.........
It was cold (6 degrees C) and foggy in France for the first hour whilst we waited for the sun to burn the through the cloud, needless to say our group of 4 became fragmented in the rush hour traffic and the 3 of us pressed on minus Oscar :(
Our route comprised mostly Peage down the A6 ( a necessary to get the big miles done in 1 day) which took us close Versailles and as close to Paris as we wanted to be, at one point a rider aboard a fully dressed White K1600 approached from behind LED headlights ablaze and hazard lights on and the traffic parted (he was dressed in an open face lid casual jacket Chinos and boat shoes which seemed de-rigour for city dwelling high speed commuters) we followed for as long as we dared as the speed increased, we gained a few km's and saved ourselves some time no doubt but lost Dave in the process who felt unwilling or unable to follow in the wake.
The journey was largely uneventful and punctuated every 180 miles or so by a fuel stop (the only time I miss an ADV over a regular GS) and an occasional coffee
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Most of us had registered and got a Sanef Liber T tag for supposedly quicker and painless passage through the toll booths on the Peage, for the most part they worked well :bow
I put mine inside a zip lock bag and put it in the sleeve pocket of my jacket where it seemed to be easily read or recognised I only had to resort to waiving my arm around in front of the reader once or twice.
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At some point after passing through a toll we were reunited with Dave and then Oscar too :bounce1 It wasn't to last.........
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As we neared our destination we were waived and signalled by a van driver as we drew alongside his van he was gesturing to us and we gathered he was telling us not to speed as the area was patrolled by Police helicopters-thanks mate :bow He saved us for sure as few km's later we passed a lay by full of Police motorcycles preparing to pull out into the afternoon commuter traffic.

Cookie and I arrived at the hotel Les Terrasses in Mellerie, we checked out all 4 booked rooms and selected one each and awaited the arrival of the others......
Garage parking was offered a short walk away but we opted to use the car park and group all the bikes together.
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Some views from my balcony;
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Humming bird?
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We enjoyed a few beers on the terrace as the sun set and then retired inside for a good meal :beerjug:
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Day 2 Sat September 15th Destination Suza Ialy Garmin suggests 208 miles or 5 hours 43 mins, again this seems optimistic for the road type we were travelling.......
Instead of going via Bourg St Maurice and Val D'Iserre (a great route but we have all ridden this way many times before we opted to go via Albertville and Bonneval
We rode the Col du Corbier
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Where we followed this chap
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He was seemed anxious not to make contact with his expensive carbon fibre and the bumpy road surface that he slowed and weaved all over the road to avoid undulations, we swarmed around him like flies and then dispatched him........we later joked about the in-car Go Pro footage showing 4 fat bikes with luggage passing him on a mountain road :D:D

Our next Col was the Col de la Madeleine which was a fantastic mix of blue sky views a sinuous bends
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We stopped at the summit for a healthy lunch among the calorie scoffing cyclists, what do you mean it's not healthy? There's green on the plate and Water on the table :p
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Some of us were not so sure the next Col was worth including in our route as it seemed like it may be a time consuming diversion and little more than a novelty, how wrong we were.......I really enjoyed the Col du Chaussy yes it was narrow and twisty buit the road was empty and the views were fantastic :bow
Not my pic;
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Some of my pics from Col du Chaussy;
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Our last pass of the day was the Col du Mont Cenis another fantastic pass with a mix of slow and tight hairpins and faster, more open flowing bends

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As the light began to fade we paused for a sip of water before pushing onto Suza and our hotel
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We were held up near the end of the pass as the local Trumpton put out a fire in a disused hotel/hostel, we would be checking in quite late again.........:blast
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We checked into the Hotel Fell in Suza where our hosts couldn't have been more helpful and kept the chef on for an hour so we could enjoy an evening meal, again no indoor parking but at the owners insistence we parked where directed in view of the cctv and the hotel drive gates were shut at night, this along with the trusty pound of butter in the fridge back home ensured we had a carefree restful night's sleep :augie

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Day 3 Sunday Sept 16th Destination Barcelonnette, Garmin suggests 205 miles 5 hours 25 mins another wildly optimistic calculation :rolleyes:
After breakfast we were soon packed and on the road, leaving Italy we enjoyed the opportunity to use our Sanef Tags again (not intended.......) a brief spell on the Peage lead us back onto mountain roads and into Briancon where we paused to re-group

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So many passes on today's route it was difficult to keep track, next was Col D'Izoard

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Or route took us via the Gorges de Guilles and Col de Vars followed by the Col de la Bonnette, excuse the scrap iron.....:D
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We took a little detour to Roubion for lunch and very nice it was too
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The view from the terrace was stunning
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The roads today had been fantastic but there was a real danger of becoming "cornered out" nearing tonight's hotel we paused for thought-and to re-group.....again :D
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The new boots on my bike had impressed me so far and they'd had a fair workout today.
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At last we arrived at our hotel after a long day in the saddle, The Grand Eperviere Hotel in Barcelonnette
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Not long after checking in this happened :beerjug:
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Oh yes I almost forgot......secure under ground parking for the bikes but the receptionist was somewhat lacking in the charm department :rolleyes:
 
Day 4 Mon Sept 17th Barcelonnette to St Jean En Royans Garmin suggests 158 miles or 3hours 51 minutes :jes

We had 2 route options for today and opted to take the 40 mile shorter route in an attempt to at least check in to the hotel at a decent hour for a change ;)
All the B's today our route took us via Beziers Bayons and Beaume along fantastic roads and the good weather continued with tempos in the low to mid 20's and we hadn't seen a drop of rain all trip, a pic to show that we do manage to stay together sometimes.........
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Paused by Lake Poncon
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More hairpins near Savournon
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And still riding as a small group a whole hour later........
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We had made good progress and stopped at a little town for lunch, are you going to Die? No we just stopped for lunch :rolleyes:
Die was once a fortified town this street is called Les Ramparts
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We were now in the Vercors national park and the next pass was the Col du Roussett, which was fast and flowing and good fun.
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We passed a memorial and Necropole dedicated to the local resistance which we would visit over the next day or 2 and we pressed on for what would undoubtedly be the views of the trip for me, the Combe Laval road and Col de la Machine didn't disappoint :bow

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THIS ROAD is what the trip was all about for me, it exceeded all of my expectations.

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We headed into Saint Jean En Royans and located our hotel the Hotel Castel Fleuri, we would be staying here for 3 nights so made ourselves at home.
 
Day 5 Tues Sept 18th no real route no real plan
Before breakfast I decided to take a stroll and got this shot of the sun rising on the way back to the Hotel
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We had enjoyed a few beers and a good meal at the hotel the previous evening where the hosts adopted the role of Chef and Waiter, the food was good and at times the service very funny:D

The view from my hotel bedroom window :thumby:
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Following a relaxed buffet breakfast we set off for a leisurely ride, we happened upon a Museum dedicated to the local resistance but there was a sign in the window which roughly translated appeared to read "Closed Today due to exceptional circumstances" which was bad luck so we stopped half a mile down the road at this place

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A very sombre place, an information tells of the massacre of resistance fighters and civilians massacred by a 10000 strong German battalion backed by an air borne division
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Near the grounds are the preserved remains of a couple of German WW2 Glider air frames
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We pressed on in a figure of 8 shaped loop in the direction of Route de Presles
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Stopping along the way for a coffee break at La Chappelle en Vercours
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More balcony roads, this time Echevis on the way back to the hotel
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We then headed back to Saint Jean En Royans where we had lunch and then I felt the need for a swim so made use of the hotel pool.
I had received news that Mark and Sean were en-route to the hotel and they eventually arrived just in time for dinner, and then there were 6 :beerjug:
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Nice one, Steve, I’m enjoying this :thumb
 
Thanks Rich, I always underestimate how long it takes to write these things :eek:

Indeed! That’s why we did a rolling report this time. Much easier. Especially as Keith did most of it! :D
 
It's weird seeing someone else's 'take' on an area you know well.
I've done the RDGA and Vercors quite a few times in the last few years so recognise most of the views but you are stayed in different places to me which gives the whole trip a different feeling.
Makes me want to go back again soon !!
Looks like you enjoyed it too ! Nice one.

Must say that the Col D'Izoard is my favourite, especially the run up to the col heading south,like a race track !!
First time I cut off the RN and went through Die to the Col de la Machine, I didn't even know I was going to ride the Col de Rousset and it was a revelation !

Thanks Rich, I always underestimate how long it takes to write these things :eek:

One of the reasons I haven't bothered recently,apart from a few random pics,so good on you for doing so.

Careful though, as the slap head from Camberley will be demanding food pics soon.....
 
Day 6 Weds Sept 19th
This was going to be our day off the bikes and have a stroll and a late lunch and a few beers or use the pool but as Mark and Sean had arrived and we kind of did that yesterday we went back to the figure of 8 loop we started yesterday, for us 4 it would mean covering some of the same route again but on the plus side the views are amazing :bow
Following a leisurely breakfast and no packing whatsoever we were off, first stop Pont-en-Royans pretty as a picture :thumby:
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Next stop Gorges du Nan, sheer drops and low walls or none at all really focus the mind, the road (like many other balcony roads in this region) is single track with passing places
https://www.dangerousroads.org/europe/france/827-gorges-du-nan-france.html

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This is part of a now disused road, a tunnel takes it's place
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The other end of the disused section of road.
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We stopped for a coffee at a lovely hotel in Rencurel if you are thinking of visiting this area look them up I know I will if I go back;
http://www.hotellemarronnier.com/Tourisme-moto-itineraires.htm

After a brief chat with the hotel owner I added a sticker to his collection and we set off.
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The route continued and hardly a straight road in sight, there was little traffic just a handful of motorhomes and the odd group of cyclists, we climbed the Petits Goulets and Grand Goulets passes
Oscar;
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Sean;
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Next was the Combe Laval road again for the first time for Mark and Sean, probably the 3rd time for me and in both directions but no less dramatic.
The 3 Amigos bikes.......
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And the 3 Amigos.........
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A fourth Amigo :D
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We stopped for lunch at slightly down at heel roadside restaurant run be an elderly couple, the food was plentiful and cheap and the service charming.
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I spotted this old girl under the trees across the road.
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One last pic for today before heading back to our hotel, another grand day's riding :bow
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Indeed! That’s why we did a rolling report this time. Much easier. Especially as Keith did most of it! :D

Thanks again Rich, I can see the sense in that now but riding with a group there is a little pressure to be sociable and have drinks and chats together, I'm not complaining but sometimes there seems to be no time at all to do anything for yourself ;)

It's weird seeing someone else's 'take' on an area you know well.
I've done the RDGA and Vercors quite a few times in the last few years so recognise most of the views but you are stayed in different places to me which gives the whole trip a different feeling.
Makes me want to go back again soon !!
Looks like you enjoyed it too ! Nice one.

Must say that the Col D'Izoard is my favourite, especially the run up to the col heading south,like a race track !!
First time I cut off the RN and went through Die to the Col de la Machine, I didn't even know I was going to ride the Col de Rousset and it was a revelation !



One of the reasons I haven't bothered recently,apart from a few random pics,so good on you for doing so.

Careful though, as the slap head from Camberley will be demanding food pics soon.....

Thank you, I've been close to this area before many times but have never spent any real time there I think it was your R (possibly on the Guzzi ?) that was part of the inspiration to go there, so thanks again :thumby:

Col D'Izoard is fun moreso if the traffic is light which it was for us, I would definitely go back having sussed it out I am confident I could easily spend 5 days there, Maronnierre hotel next time (see my link) there are 1 or 2 food pics so that should keep him happy :D
 
The final push.........
Day 8 Friday Sept 21st Destination Nerris Le Bains Garmin suggests 224 miles or 2 months 3 days 17 hours and 46 minutes....or something

On checking at Hotel Castel Fleuri we found the bill to be lighter than expected, this was no doubt due to us starting a "beer kitty" instead of charging drinks to the room, a little Hotel art from Castel Fleuri, most of us felt one number stood out, which one?
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No pics today from me of the route, the route included a Dam which I thought might lend itself to a pic but no, thanks Barrage de la Rive :rolleyes:we did pass over 1 balcony road in the Livrados Forez National Park but the vegetation was so high that it was barely noticeable and passed without a pic, what else happened? Oh yes we got split up and then re-grouped apart from Mark who seemingly went via Saint Tropez :D

Our stop for the night Hotel Mona Lisa at Nerris le Bains
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A pretty little town with a selection of bars and restaurants and some interesting architecture, oh and a casino right opposite the hotel, wish I'd brought my Tux......
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There are the remains of a Roman amphitheatre close by
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Parking is wherever you can manage it, praise be to the pound of butter again;
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We checked a couple of local bars then settled in a local Brasserie where this was on offer, and quite nice it was too but on the strong side :jager
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And that's it another trip over, there was going to be another night but we changed our ferry booking and came back on the Saturday 22nd Sept night crossing from Le Havre to Portsmouth, we had rain for the first time as we approached Chartres and it was biblical but only lasted an hour or so, we killed time at Le Havre for a couple of hours and that was it, job done.

Thanks to all who made the trip for the memories and your company :comfort:bow:beerjug:

Killing time in Le Havre;

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Great read , brings back loads of memories
Thanks for making the effort to post
 
Great ride rep, Steve, very sorry I couldn't join you, it looks a fabulous route, maybe steal it for next year!!
 
Careful though, as the slap head from Camberley will be demanding food pics soon.....

There’s already been food pics. :blast

Maybe pop in to specsavers tomorrow? :rob:comfort:D
 
Bowt time you got your arse ingear & did this Steve..

Superb pictures & write up.. :clap :clap :clap
 


April 2017,been back twice since,once on Tmax and once in 'The Cage' with g/f

That's the pic that reminded me I needed to go there :thumby:

Great read , brings back loads of memories
Thanks for making the effort to post

Thanks and you're welcome :thumby:

Great ride rep, Steve, very sorry I couldn't join you, it looks a fabulous route, maybe steal it for next year!!

Cheers, drop me a line I'll send it to you :thumby:

A great trip beginning to end ;-)
Looking forward to the next one

Cheers Dave it's the craic and the company that makes it more enjoyable, Ireland next year?

Bowt time you got your arse ingear & did this Steve..

Superb pictures & write up.. :clap :clap :clap

Sorry Ash I shoulda pulled my finger out but work got in the way :rolleyes: it was a cracking trip :thumby:
 
Excellent report Steve. Looks like Mark and I missed out on a good couple of mountain roads before met up. As usual your planning and hotel selections were spot on. Thanks mate for a great trip.
 
Great trip report
Although I can't see the photos on this works conputer ( just that grey box with x in it ) I can imagine all of it as been to 99% of this trip, and I will be able to revisit when I am on device which allows me to see them :)
I dont think you could ever tire of riding the Rdga or part off , As Arsey says some areas like having your own racetrack.
Stayed in Marrinnor with a group from the Alpineroads. website many years ago and remember visiting that place with the Glider Air frames. If I recall correctly there was also a resistance Memorial gardens very close by. You do need a good head for hieghts on some of those Balcony roads.
Not familiar with the concept of "day off the bike"on day 6 ??
So how optomistic was the 7hrs 45 mins for 525miles to Mellerie ?
 


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