Bing 32 Carb setup anyone?

flytoolow

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Hi,

is there a basic "works every time" setup & synch guide for apair of Bing 32's?

Ive cleaned my carbs and finally got it all back together and runs a bit rough.

When fiddling with the air mixture I noticed that the other side was running a lot hotter (to the touch)..so I stopped. I didnt notice any noticable drop /increase in rpm no matter what mixture setting I used..

I there a good link somewhere about's ? i.e close the mixture fully in - open 1 full turn etc. I just feel as if Im adjusting things in the dark...:nenau:nenau

any help is appreciated..

F2L
 
Just one turn open on the butterfly's, idle mixture exactly where the book says, and 2mm play in the cables set by touch, fingertips on the butterfly lever, and should start and run OK.
If it doesnt there is a problem somewhere, you can either find it or detune the good carb so it is equal to the bad one.
 
Just on the mixture adjustment; not the carb synch:

There is a small but noticeable change as the mixture screw is adjusted and the carb "hunts".
I had an old carb-tune kit that helped confim the tuning by ear was accurate. Reassuring.
If you can't detect any change then it's time to reconsider.

First: - probably stating the obvious here, sorry:
Check float height. I check fuel depth in bowl as an indicator too.
Ensure you have slack in all four cables, and choke and throttle are returning to the stop
Ensure inlet manifold rubbers are good, and secure.
Check tappets and air filter
Did you replace o-rings when you cleaned the carb? Were the choke valves installed in the correct postion?

Then, with a warm engine: Mixture Adj
Balance the carbs at tick-over i.e with the throttle stops. (Not essential for mixture but smoother tick-over will help you detect hunting)
Don't have the tick-over too high.
Set the mixture screw midway between the points at which each carb hunts
Re-adjust the tick-over.
 
Should have read the OP - if adjusting the mixture screw does not change things then the circuit i blocked.
Remove the screw and blast a pressure pack of carb cleaner down the hole with a needle - it should exit from the idle jet and a pin prick in the intake close to the edge of the closed butterfly.
Then take the can and do the same with the small passageway at the LHS of the carb intake - it doesn't get a mention on most carb how too's but it does make a difference. Should come out of a pin prick too.
I set float levels to a scribed line 1/2" down from the top of the bowl , but of course that assumes you have good new floats which are the same weight, but then most systems do.
Set with a Colortune I find the correct idle mixture is just out from stumble on the way in, but as it is almost impossible to replicate running temperature with a stationary bike and my bike does not spend much time at idle I dont spend a lot of time on it.
 
The first line of Beemerboffs reply makes sense to me.
There is cleaning,then there is proper cleaning,and knowing how the carb works to double check all the various airways are clear.
With bings we no longer bother with ultrasonic cleaning,low pressure aquablast is our preferred method.
The drilling’s are simple and big enough to enable secondary cleaning of blast media.
If running problems are encountered after rebuild on checked settings of mixture and float/fuel level,then one has to start to suspect wear somewhere,.
In this instance I’d be pulling the carbs down again
 


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