Changing shocks

King Rat · Oct 14, 2018

1150 Adventure - is there any particular snags I should be aware of when changing the shocks please? On standards at the moment and have Wilbers to fit. I was going to use Yamaha saltwater proof grease on the pivots/bolts - it works to keep outboard parts in saltwater good for 20 odd years, so road salt won't worry it!

Any hints or tips gratefully received.

KMD · Oct 14, 2018

Changing the shocks on an 1150 is a fairly simple and straightforward operation. Use some heat on the threads in case thread-lock has been applied and raise the back end so as to give you enough clearance to drop the rear out. Spanner and a allen key on the front if I recall correctly but again you may need heat on the bottom nut for the same reason. Check the length of the shocks you are putting on against those you are taking off. I had to shim a front one up a bit to get the same length changing to Ohlins once. As for weather protection, I just use ACF50 on mine. No issues so far.

King Rat · Oct 14, 2018

KMD said:
Changing the shocks on an 1150 is a fairly simple and straightforward operation. Use some heat on the threads in case thread-lock has been applied and raise the back end so as to give you enough clearance to drop the rear out. Spanner and a allen key on the front if I recall correctly but again you may need heat on the bottom nut for the same reason. Check the length of the shocks you are putting on against those you are taking off. I had to shim a front one up a bit to get the same length changing to Ohlins once. As for weather protection, I just use ACF50 on mine. No issues so far.

Thanks. I didn't realise they would be thread locked. I have never used it in my life!

I am dropping the height a bit. After my crash I think it would be easier to lower it a bit. They came off an Adventure, but are a little lower, so I am leaving them as they were set up on the other Adventure.

How high do you need to lift the back end? Would it work to take the wheel out to give more room? I don't have any way of lifting it other than to perhaps get someone to put the main stand on a piece of wood. I can't get her off the main stand at the moment, or put her back on... I will, in time, but still doing physio. My shoulder is killing me tonight - I picked some sloes this afternoon - reaching up has overdone it.

JohnnyBoxer · Oct 15, 2018

You will need to take the back wheel out and rear silencer off to get at the rear bottom bolt
On the front shock you will need the tank off to do it properly (although you can pull it back a bit, but not ideal)
Main problem with the front Wilbers is there is no locking nut on the top mount on the spring collar to hold the shock (as the oem or Ohlins has) as you tighten up the top nut on the threaded bar
We had to use a windy gun to spin the nut on the bar fast enough to make it tighten sufficiently and use thread lock on that one for sure

King Rat · Oct 15, 2018

JohnnyBoxer said:
You will need to take the back wheel out and rear silencer off to get at the rear bottom bolt
On the front shock you will need the tank off to do it properly (although you can pull it back a bit, but not ideal)
Main problem with the front Wilbers is there is no locking nut on the top mount on the spring collar to hold the shock (as the oem or Ohlins has) as you tighten up the top nut on the threaded bar
We had to use a windy gun to spin the nut on the bar fast enough to make it tighten sufficiently and use thread lock on that one for sure

Thank you. My neighbour has a windy gun in his van. I might call in a favour when it comes to doing it up. I wonder why they don't have a means of holding the shock still? It isn't like they are cheap jacks!

JohnnyBoxer · Oct 15, 2018

King Rat said:
Thank you. My neighbour has a windy gun in his van. I might call in a favour when it comes to doing it up. I wonder why they don't have a means of holding the shock still? It isn't like they are cheap jacks!

Ohlins do
Showa oem do

Good knows why Wilbers don't as it's bloody inconvenient in my experience, should be a 2 minute job with the top nut

King Rat · Oct 15, 2018

JohnnyBoxer said:
Ohlins do
Showa oem do

Good knows why Wilbers don't as it's bloody inconvenient in my experience, should be a 2 minute job with the top nut

Maybe put pressure on the shock to use the rubber bush to hold it still? Or does it spin the bush too.

JohnnyBoxer · Oct 15, 2018

King Rat said:
Maybe put pressure on the shock to use the rubber bush to hold it still? Or does it spin the bush too.

It does spin

King Rat · Oct 15, 2018

JohnnyBoxer said:
Ohlins do
Showa oem do

Good knows why Wilbers don't as it's bloody inconvenient in my experience, should be a 2 minute job with the top nut

Maybe put pressure on the shock to use the rubber bush to hold it still? Or does it spin the bush too?

Just phoned Wilbers and asked - they use a windy gun in their workshop, but say that putting the weight of the bike on the wheel will push everything into place and should hold it enough to do it up..... we shall see.

JohnnyBoxer · Oct 15, 2018

King Rat said:
Maybe put pressure on the shock to use the rubber bush to hold it still? Or does it spin the bush too?

Just phoned Wilbers and asked - they use a windy gun in their workshop, but say that putting the weight of the bike on the wheel will push everything into place and should hold it enough to do it up..... we shall see.

We couldn't get the weight on wheel method to work
Windy gun was needed

King Rat · Oct 16, 2018

JohnnyBoxer said:
We couldn't get the weight on wheel method to work
Windy gun was needed

Thanks. I shall ask neighbour if he has one for his site work then! BUT, he has a compressor in his van, so possibly proper windy one on a long hose rather than a battery one. I'll find out later.

Failing that, two nuts on top acting as a stop nut, just to get the hold with?

Changing shocks

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