Bleeding ABS

flytoolow

flytoolow

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Well,

I’m in the process of trying to access an alternator on a 1150 GSA so that I can replace the voltage regulator and hopefully in the process troubleshoot why the charge circuit is intermittent. I’m hoping that during this I will find a bad connection or loose wire somewhere…

Upon reading the Clymer’s manual it’s “simply” a case of :
Tank off – Check
Battery out - Check
Front strut removal – unsure why ? But seems easy enough…
Engine management block out – easy, a few clips and unscrew and it should pull out.
ABS Pump removal – Hmmm

The manual states that after putting the ABS pump back in place I need to Trailer the bike to a BMW garage to get them to bleed the ABS system ? Is this true. Is it not possible to bleed the ABS circuits myself. Are there any specific tools/techniques required?

If I need to get a BMW garage to do it, then I may as well stop here and just ride the bike there and have done with it? Any opinions for a mechanical Orangutan ?

TIA

F2L
 
You can bleed the ABS system yourself, with just the basic brake bleeding tools.

However, there are 2 different ABS systems fitted to the R1150GS series. You need to let us know which year your bike is and whether it is a twin spark or not. Then you can be pointed in the direction of the correct procedure to use.

Ian
 
Ian J Hartley said:
You can bleed the ABS system yourself, with just the basic brake bleeding tools.

However, there are 2 different ABS systems fitted to the R1150GS series. You need to yet us know which year your bike is and whether it is a twin spark or not. Then you can be pointed in the direction of the correct procedure to use.

Ian
Click to expand...

2003 twin spark - I thinks its ABS "2"
 
flytoolow said:
2003 twin spark - I thinks its ABS "2"
Click to expand...

That's the Servo Brake system. The bleeding is a bit more complicated as there are Two control circuits and two power circuits.

The front brake lever reservoir is bled at the Servo unit. (Control)
The Read brake pedal reservoir is bled at the Servo unit. (Control)

The servo unit houses the two reservoirs for the front and rear power circuits which are bled at the respective brake callipers.

That's the basics.

Ian
 
It's not too difficult to do and with practice takes less than an hour to do. For what it's worth my advice would be:

1. Make sure you have a tight fitting hose for the servo units bleed nipples (and calipers)
2. I find both small ring and open ended spanners help- have a check before you start..
3. Don't worry about having having a "special" screw in filler- I use a plastic funnel with self amalgamating tape to cut a thread into the filler holes. Alternatively, a large plastic syringe can be used. I think Steptoe advocates topping up directly from a container. Just make sure the fluid level in the unit doesn't drop to low.
4. Follow Steptoes and others advice about using the servo motor to help drain the caliper feed from the unit i.e no need to manually pump when bleeding calipers/topping up servo- again, just make sure fluid levels don't drop too much......*master cylinders to servo unit need to be bled manually.

Good luck
 
STOP

you don't have to remove the abs modulator to remove the alternator. It is possible to get the alternator out using patience, a pry bar and thick skinned knuckles.

But before all that check the "blue" wire alternator connection. Pretty common fault for intermittent charging problem. It may save you a lot of trouble.
 
Steptoe said:
STOP

you don't have to remove the abs modulator to remove the alternator. It is possible to get the alternator out using patience, a pry bar and thick skinned knuckles.

But before all that check the "blue" wire alternator connection. Pretty common fault for intermittent charging problem. It may save you a lot of trouble.
Click to expand...

Yeah, we've discussed this in a previous thread - This is what I was searching for by removing everything & hoping for the best...:rolleyes:

OK, So I can see the "thin" Blue wire ( as I poke through the ECU gubbins. It looks to be off a blade connector on the lower LHS of the alternator - correct ? I guess Im checking if it's loose ? Is access easier if I remove the ECU ?

F2L
 
Well Ive just un-hooked the ECU box and unplugged the "thin blue line". All seems remarkably clean and well connected...which is a shame...I was hoping for at least some form of dis-order to corroborate the theory. Didn't seem loose - had to use some piers to remove it...
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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