Meandering around the small roads of the Pyrenees

Northern jock

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In July I decided to go to Spain on the bike - not my 1200 as I had just sold that but my old XT600 which hadn't moved for 5 years



So I booked the Santander ferry for September 23rd and thought about getting an MOT. Fortunately that all went well and I had the bike shipped down to Exeter a couple of days before the ferry.

The bike seemed to be missing a little on the way down to Plymouth so I decided to have a wee look once I was in Spain. I assumed it was probably the mixture as I'd had some issues with it the week before.

Onto the ferry and start how you intend to go on. Shame the magician was crap and the singers were average.



I had only booked a single as I had a couple of options. One idea was to meander round the Pyrenees then get the ferry from Barcelona to Sardinia, then up to Corsica and on to Italy. I could then leave the bike in the garage of a relative of my wife, come back out in the Spring and head on east. Or, stay in the Pyrenees area and get a ferry back.

There was no more planning that that. I had a couple of Michelin maps and intended picking out small roads in the hills and seeing what they were like. If an area on the map showed wee windy roads, a few campsites and small towns or villages - chances are it was worth a visit. Industrial areas don't tend to have campsites so it is normally a reasonable clue. Nothing wrong with planning your trip to the last coffee stop if you prefer, just not for me. I deliberately didn't research all the best roads or campsites or hotels as I was quite happy to find out as I went along. I didn't have a satnav :)eek:) though there was always the backup of maps on my phone.

So I got off the ferry and headed south on the N623, an easy road to pick up in Santander as you leave the port. The weather wasn't great, low thick cloud as I went up and over the pass at 1011m so slow going. Down along a nice gorge then I decided to find a hotel, couldn't be arsed camping that night. I had a quick look at a popular booking website which showed a hotel in Trespaderne on the N629 which was good value but no cancellation possible so I didn't book, just rode to it, went to check there was somewhere to park the bike and that the price was okay.

Secure parking 50m away, €31 B&B for a twin room; dinner was not until 2130 - welcome to Spanish eating times - but breakfast was from 0600. The hotel had quite a few Hydro Board type guys staying so was busy enough after about 7. Hostal Jose Luis was the name


And they sold this


Dinner was €9 for 3 courses, wine, water, bread so good value and really nice food. The staff didn't speak English but were really friendly, very helpful and doing their best to ensure I enjoyed it. I would definitely go back.



Nest morning the sun was out, the roads were dry so all looking good.

I carried on along the red road for a bit, stopping in a lovely wee town called Ollauri, just east of Haro, for coffee.


Going back to the bike I saw rubber shavings on the swinging arm. Turned out that the new Avon tyre that was fine a little wider than standard wasn't quite so fine with an after market exhaust and me and all my kit. The tyre was catching the front ring on the silencer box when the suspension was fully compressed - what I had thought was maybe the mixture as it lurched very briefly.


I didn't have a big enough spanner to tighten up the preload so headed back to Haro, found a wee bike shop and asked him to jack it up a bit. He did, then he got a tyre leaver to try and force the box away from the wheel a bit, a good idea - but, seeing it later, he had put the force on the back of the box, the bracket is in the middle so he actually pushed the front closer as the back moved out. I should have noticed at the time but I was more concerned about the bike falling off his shaky stand.

Off I went, stopping to rub some dust onto the edge of the tyre so I could see if there was any more rubbing.
 
I saw a couple of campsites not too far away and decided to head for one just south of Pamplona in a wee town called Mendigorria - at least it got me onto wee yellow roads and off the bigger red ones which whilst not too busy were a bit fast for an XT - fine roads but straight and wide. The campsite, as is typical in Spain, was mainly cabins and then campervan hookup spaces with a grassy area set aside for tents.

I took a wander up into the pretty old town up the hill and found a bar at the top with a view down over the campsite and beyond.



On my personal system for measuring how expensive a country/town/bar is, the beer was reasonable value. I didn't eat there but should have as the café in the campsite was predictably crap. In the morning I had to make a precise adjustment to the shape of the silencer so, off it came and a suitable tool was obtained. Not the Touratech silencer adjusting tool but a large rock.



Several thumps later and it looked good so, back together and away by 12.

I headed north east, heading for a village called Ochagavia as it was in the right direction, on a wee road and had a campsite. Turned out when I rode in I recognised the place, I had been there a couple of years ago. Nice wee town, nice campsite though the bar was quite high on the beer scale



Wandered into town which is only 10 minutes away and did the same circuit as every other tourist - along the river, up into the small alleyways, past the church and into a bar



Then, further up the hill just to be different to get a view of the town



The town was quite quiet being late September and only one of the bars was serving food but all good when they finally decided to start selling it. My wife reminded me of the huge brandy I'd been given at the campsite bar when we were there before so I had to try it again



Not as big but enough.

Plan for tomorrow - wee roads.
 
A good looking route was to go north along the NA140 to Isaba then left through Anso and Hecho, another left through Jasa and Aisa and down to Jaca.

All great roads, hardly any other traffic and great weather. Turning up towards Anso the roads got smaller and there was a big sign warning of gravel



which turned out to be correct. The surface was varied for a while but still great scenery and riding



In one area the road was suddenly bigger and faster



then back to single track.

I stopped for coffee in Jasa, nice wee place though not a lot going on and I was certainly the only foreigner in town





I got to Jaca which doesn't seem too keen on signposts, zig zagged my random way through it and emerged onto the big road for a little while before turning north then east at Biescas and along the wee road to Torla (N260A?) - a cracking ride, great corners, surface, views, the lot. At Torla I decided not to stop in town (there are campsites just north of town) but to head up the gravel road to Bujaruelo. I stopped at the campsite there which was nice, very quiet and peaceful and a wee shop selling cold beer



Nice views down the valley



The shop didn't have anything worth cooking so I ate in the campsite bar which was good - steak, egg and chips type of place. Next morning I decided to stay another night and went up to the end of the road where there is another campsite



It's a nice spot, stayed there a couple of years ago, bit windswept though. I wandered up the hill behind it to glorious views



then back along the river, some perfect wild camping spots

 
It seemed rude to walk past the bar of the top campsite without giving some business



The road is fine, easy gravel



I did see 3 Germans coming along it on 1200 LC's, standing up in full twat gear with most of the Touratech catalogue attached to their steeds and they were going at a fair pace, sufficient to give problems if there was anything coming the other way. But, you don't have to stand up for most of it, just the odd wee bumpy section. If you're collecting TT points then standing would probably help.


Next morning, back to Torla and a left onto a very small road through Fanlo, Buerba, Escalona and then down to join the N260. The roads were small, rough in places with some gravel but, again, no traffic and great scenery. Just outside Fanlo there was a lovely looking wee café up a rough dirt track



Worth stopping at but I wouldn't take your RT (etc) up to it

More great wee roads winding through the hills





Plenty of first gear hairpins with single track width and yet more stunning scenery. Part of the enjoyment of travel like this for me is seeing the roads on a map, then actually going and finding out what the reality is, one of the reasons I don't like to over research it. A little more exploration on a simple level.









Then, along the N260 for a while, I think that was the section along a very scenic gorge. The map showed a campsite up a side valley (Vall de Boi) in Taull and it looked open on the internet so I headed up there. Turned out to be closed, then it started raining so as I headed back down the hill and passed a hotel with a couple of older ladies sitting outside. Looked scruffy enough for me so I wandered in. Secure parking was to be had if Auntie moved her car, full board was €50 and later on Auntie poured an award winning G&T. I don't think she realised the G bit was the more expensive part.

They also sold beer



A wee wander



There was a lively bar just up from the hotel so I had a couple of beers there then back for dinner. Bottle of wine plonked on the table, take as much as you like. Decent breakfast - all good value on a rainy night.

Next morning, back down to the N260 with a coffee stop



When I was sitting there a girl stopped on a Bonneville and asked if I spoke English and did I have any tools. I'd left my rock back in the campsite but had some other, more traditional ones so I said yes. She said she lived in Spain and was out for a Sunday blast and her back wheel felt funny. Hardly surprising with hand tight (at best) nuts. Easily sorted.

Through Sort and over a couple of passes on quite a busy bit of road (Sunday) to briefly join the C14/N260 before turning left for Castellbo. I had been to Castellbo years ago when I was out trail riding with Trail Bike Tours when they were based in Andorra and loved the wee restaurant. I had then camped there when on my 1150 about 12 years ago so was determined to go back



The camping is in an orchard and I was allowed to help myself to loads of great apples



The exhaust was still touching the tyre occasionally so some more precision engineering was called for. I borrowed a suitable tool and got to work



That sorted it.

A wander up the valley, town in the distance



If you have been to Castellbo you will recognise the shop/bar entrance





Food is simple and plentiful, as is the beer and wine.

The next day I rode around the valley, including up to the top of it at Sant Joan de L'Erm



I thought it was all shut up so parked on the grass to have some lunch. Turned round to see a guy taking a photo of my reg plate and thought he must be an XT enthusiast so I wandered over. After he shouted for a while in Spanish I asked if he could shout in English, which he could. He wasn't happy at my treatment of Spain it turned out so I apologised and said I would move it. Off he went again, same as before, I apologised and said I would move it. Again he started off, shouting and waving his hands until I finally shouted back at him to please stop and go away. That worked and I moved the bike.

Nice valley







So I had 3 nights there.
 
Pics of stunning scenery, riding fantastic roads, no definite plan and beer.
What's not to like.:beerjug:
 
Excellent stuff. Really enjoyed that as I was in that neck of the woods last month although with 5 others (all 'twatted' up :D). I really fancy a tour on my own where I don't have to worry about others but every time I start planning something they come out of the woodwork. I guess the trick is to keep my mouth shut eh!

Looking forward to your next instalment :beerjug:

P.S. loving the game of 'spot the pint' in a lot of your photos. please tray to make it a bit harder.

Neil
 
I decided not to go onto Sardinia etc as I was quite happy where I was, Corsica etc can wait until next Spring. So, looking at the map I thought I would wander round the Serra Del Cadi area for a bit before heading over to France. I went along to Seo de Urgel and headed up the wee road to the south to Fornois, Sorribes and west.

Again, small roads with varying surfaces but empty and scenic









The road becomes a gravel road after a bit



Back along to Tuixen which was bigger than expected and south on another great wee road to Saint Llorenc de Morunys, cracking ride

All very scenic



West to the C14, another great stretch of road then back to the N260 and retrace my steps to Sort then north to Llavorsi. Looked a nice area on the map and had a campsite so worth a try. The road from Sort was really enjoyable and nice to have some sweeping bends instead of hairpins for a change.

The campsite was fine, town had a couple of bars with cheap food and drink



As it was in a tight valley it was bloody cold first thing and the sun took a long time to come round, almost as long as the Spanish guy with an old 100GS that was far from keen to wake up. Lucky his battery was strong.

So, north to France up Val D'Aran





and left onto a small road, D618 for more hairpins and passes; Coll Del Portillion then Coll del Peyresourde







 






Down to Luz saint Sauveur to find the first two campsites closed despite the area being quite busy, 3rd one was open and was fine. It's a tourist town though so, guess what - beer was high on the scale. I was so shocked I didn't take a photo of one.

The next morning the forecast wasn't looking great so I decided to have a wee French town day. I didn't have a map of France with me so decided to head north then west then south. I had a very enjoyable few hours wandering along small town France, coffee stops here and there.

And a lunch stop somewhere, no idea where



I saw the name Laruns which I remembered and headed there, turned out there was the town annual cheese festival that weekend so had to be worth a look. Friday I bought some food and cooked in the campsite



and Saturday went up to the town which was all very festive with straw on the streets, lots of stalls, hot food vendors and various bands
And cheese.



These two girls knew how to blow



Later they were on cheese duty, holding plates with bits of 2016 and 2017 Swiss cheese. I asked them in my near perfect French which one tasted better but I think they probably weren't very good at French because they both blushed heavily and giggled. Thinking about it later I suspect they had interpreted my question as to which of them tasted better. Ah well, move on

This was good stuff



A man with birds wandered around



Some dancing



There were about 10 cheese farmers selling their stuff, all with lots of samples on dishes. After 3 rounds I think they were on to me so I moved along and found another table with what appeared to be free cheese - and wine. I watched for a minute suspecting Candid Camera type moment but Johnny Foreigner was getting stuck in so I did as well.

The weather then turned so I bought some cheese from the best looking seller and hoofed it back to my tent for dinner



Expensive set menus didn't attract


Next morning the weather was wet so I went for a wander above the town and found this



Then back to town where the beer tents were doing good business in the rain. There were 3 bands wandering around and during heavy showers they would take up residence in one of the beer tents, great entertainment. This was a jazz band



So fewer folk than the sunny Saturday but a lot more fun.

The thunder storms that night were quite something, very impressive lying in my tent as the sky lit up and thunder lasted 10 to 15 seconds a time. In the morning it was still pissing down so a late start. The high passes weren't going to be any fun so, again, I headed north and west and picked up a road south to St Jean, en route to Pamplona area. St Jean was a nice looking town, if a bit touristy. Then south on a wee road NA172 to Aoiz which looked like a new town, on to NA234 and onto Mendigorria to camp there again.



This time I avoided the camp bar and headed for the same bar up at the top of town where beer and food were much better value.

In the morning I now had one more night before the ferry from Santander so more map studying and a wee road found. I had spotted a campsite (that I confirmed was open) north west of Miranda De Ebro in a wee village called Villanane so headed for that. Down to Estella and onto the NA132, a fast good road, lots of good sweeping bends then off onto something smaller, NA734, another great wee road through quite a few wee villages and varied farm land. Then I saw a smaller road, A3130 so followed that






Past Miranda and north up A625 to Villanane but didn't fancy the campsite, looked like the bar and café were barely open and there was nothing in the village so I turned and headed along the A2122 to Trespaderne again, another great road, especially the eastern half. Back to the same hotel where they were very surprised to see me and very welcoming. Special price, €28 B&B, dinner €9 again.



Wee wander into town



I think the town is the card playing capital of Spain because come 1900 groups of old ladies gather in the cafes, have one coffee each and sit and play cards. Good for them but better for the café if they spent a bit more. I did my bit.
 
Plenty of time to get to the ferry so more wee roads. The map had an area I'd never been through so thought it worth a look - hills south of Santander.

Up to Medina de Pomer then onto Villarcayo, Espinosa and then I had a choice of 3 passes. Really enjoyable getting to them







Up and over the middle one on the CA643




Very impressive when you come down the north side





A lunch stop as I started to approach busier roads





Then back to the traffic, down to the port and heading home.

Hopefully in the spring I will head back out, across Spain in a couple of days and get the ferry to Sardinia and see what happens.

Having no plan, no schedule, nothing booked and no one to compromise with meant a really enjoyable trip with zero stress and some great places. The places and roads were more important than the number of miles covered.
 
Great report and pics. A trip with a difference. I have done the N260 from Jaca across to Catalonia and it is a great road.
 
Enjoyed that immensely
No fuss
Good words
Great pics
Simple.......... in today's over complicated world

Bravo
 
Excellent report, simple un-stressful travel ( apart from having to set about the exhaust with some granite obviously ) in a lovely non tourist part of the world.

Got to have a rating of at least 5 on the beerometer :beer::beer::beer::beer::beer:


:thumb2
 
RR

I enjoyed your report...thanks. Agree 100% with your approach....,let the trip unfold as it will, no stress!

Keep up the good work :.)
 
Great report and some stunning camp sites - noted :D

Glenn
 
Thanks for the comments

I was surprised at how few British bikes I saw (I wasn't disappointed, I wasn't seeking company). On the wee back roads and villages I saw no one but as soon as I was on a stretch of the N260, I saw quite a few, then turned off again. In campsites I was normally the only bike.

The N260 is a cracking road in places and definitely worth riding along, but, it's not the only good bit of road there, especially if you are prepared to take some single track, gravel, pot holes and variable tarmac to get to the good places. And most are fine and some of the wee roads are perfect tarmac, every bit as good as the rest.

I did meet a UK couple in Luz saint Sauveur and we had a couple of beers. I did though wish that they had met me in a cheaper town, the beer was top of the scale. Laruns would have been a better place to bump into them, plenty free cheese on offer. To be fair they did pass through Laruns as I was sitting having a cold refreshment but they only stopped for coffee, had to get to Jaca before the weather turned.

The only other British bikers I met and spoke to were at each end of the ferry. Late September was a good time to go, you just have to work around some things being closed.
 
There was no more planning that that. I had a couple of Michelin maps.
I deliberately didn't research all the best roads or campsites or hotels as I was quite happy to find out as I went along.
I didn't have a satnav

A man after my own heart.
Shame more bods on here aren't like that, instead of wanting every wheel turn and piss stop researched, advised on, and planned.

Great read and ace photos. :thumb
 


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