Broken down, electrical failure

ssray

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Riding to work, all lights on the dash went out apart from the red battery one.
Pulled over and switched off the on at the key and got going, 3 miles later it cut out again so while moving key off then on again, nothing this time
Whipped the seat off and checked the battery connections, re tried the key a few times, wighled the wiring while kepping the key in the on position
Nothing, looked in the fuse/relay box and removed and wiggled stuff still nothing
Any ideas? Could it be the ignition switch?
Dumped it and locked it up, car and tools in the morning
 
So if I unplug the loom under the tank, which wires can I bridge to get it started and home?
 
Looking at the wiring diagram, I would just twist them all together
 
easy check, there is a round plastic part under the bottom of the "head stock" and you will see a bundled set of wires coming out and back in to the loom normal down the left hand side often tied up at an extreme angle with cable ties, clip the ties loose the wires and switch on the ignition if you "waggle" the wires you should find the lights etc going on and off, to get me home I just striped back the heat shrink wraping and joined the wire that had broken which in my case was the the main feed up to the switch.
 
100% right, red wire was broken and only just hanging on when the bars were in the right place.

The connectors in the block are really black, wher do i get new ones and what size please?
 

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P.s the repair was only to get home, I will rewire it on wednesday on my day off
 
The fault is caused by the cable tie attaching this part of the loom to the headstock; this loom section is available from your local BMW dealer for not very much money and will presumably have the connectors you seek included. Just don't replace the cable tie :blast
 
I had to repair mine last year. On the right hand side of the barrel there is a red paint dot. pick this out with something sharp and behind it is a tiny grub screw. this needs loosened (i didnt have to remove it completely to release the connector) then the whole connector slides out from bottom. Makes repair much easier. I soldered mine and its been good since. Left the wiring very loose to avoid the common issue happening again due to too-tight cable ties.

(not my pic, shows the rear of the connector clearly though, hard to see peering up in situ)
 

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When I (cough,cough) repaired it yhe other day the purple wire was cut and twisted back, any idea what its for?
 
When I (cough,cough) repaired it yhe other day the purple wire was cut and twisted back, any idea what its for?

Not used on the R1100 GS

On the circuit diagram it goes to a "special equipment" plug for RS/RT models.
 
Fixed, I could not get the bottom off of the ignition switch, even taking the top yoke off which was a good thing as the bearing was very notchy, local place had one in for £21 so I did that aswell
Thanks for the advice
 
Fixed, I could not get the bottom off of the ignition switch, even taking the top yoke off which was a good thing as the bearing was very notchy, local place had one in for £21 so I did that aswell
Thanks for the advice

did you take out/loosen the tiny grub screw?
 


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