G/S pd top totty

An upside to a fresh makeover is that as you use it afterwards, all tbe scratches and Patina are your story and part of your memories.
 
I think Solidstate was talking about the customers choice, we can all read and know the decision is not Mikey's.

Restored means different things to different people.

To some it means returned to the way it was when it left the factory. Usually described as making them as bad as they once were.

To others it means everything that can be is changed to whatever is the current fashion irrespective of functionality'. Usually described as Frankenbikes or wankmobiles.

Some just like to improve the function irrespective of originality or fashion. Usually described as riders.

A few even leave them alone and just ride them. No one seems to talk about them much.

But if we all did there wouldn't be much to post about or show picture off, and for some that seems to be as important as anything else!
 
I had my G/S restored/rebuilt in 2010.

I rode it for as long as i could but I was starting to get multiple failures on the wiring combined with the frame starting to go rusty in places so I was either going to sell it or keep it. If I was going to keep it, I needed to get jobs done.

I didn't want to keep on patching it up because I didn't know what was going to fail next. Whilst the frame is being blasted and painted, then the rest of it might as well be checked over and bearings renewed etc. It makes sense when the thing is in bits, not to put knackered bits back in.

Restorations aren't cheap, but it means that the bike has another 20 or 30 years of trouble free (fingers crossed) riding, knowing that it's all good. It just makes sense.

Whoever gets this bike from Mikeyboy will have a bike that will be good for a long time with just regular oil changes.

Not everyone wants a project. That's why we like these build threads, so we can watch others doing it. :thumby:
 
Kaboooooom:D
 

Attachments

  • 4BC8D0C3-BC8E-4502-9D63-F8097632BFF2.jpg
    4BC8D0C3-BC8E-4502-9D63-F8097632BFF2.jpg
    251.3 KB · Views: 461
  • F30BFE8E-D9C7-4559-A7ED-DBBBB6724049.jpg
    F30BFE8E-D9C7-4559-A7ED-DBBBB6724049.jpg
    251.7 KB · Views: 472
  • 0551AB34-3E42-4268-93D8-54F02C2C51D3.jpg
    0551AB34-3E42-4268-93D8-54F02C2C51D3.jpg
    251.7 KB · Views: 476
  • 61CB6602-207C-4562-89B8-BB3CDBBBAFE7.jpg
    61CB6602-207C-4562-89B8-BB3CDBBBAFE7.jpg
    248.5 KB · Views: 469
  • 8C4BC115-1234-4AC7-9A32-89B9058EE1E0.jpg
    8C4BC115-1234-4AC7-9A32-89B9058EE1E0.jpg
    246.2 KB · Views: 469
For all the differences in opinion,the bike really wasn’t that nice,it was ready for a resto

Christ, if that needs restoring, I hate to think what you’d make of mine :D
 
Christ, if that needs restoring, I hate to think what you’d make of mine :D
Airheads seem to have an uncanny ability to carry on running until such a time comes to open a major component up for a looksee,
Only to find carnage.
We have seen this many times,
All of my personal and project bikes get the engine /box/bevel/prop rebuilt,most of the time I never even hear them run prior to purchase.
It gives piece of mind that all is well and removes the risk of a catastrophic failure with the associated costs.
If you have owned a machine for a long while ,you tend to pick up on the warning signs,
Not so if you’ve just spent a considerable sum to buy a 30 odd year old machine,of which you have absolutely no idea of its true history, or the standard of maintenance and repairs:blast
Just my opinion of course,but ,,, what do I know:augie
 
An example,
We have just partially stripped a GS para,for mainly cosmetics.
Whilst it’s apart we generally have a good look at a few key components to get a picture of engine “health”
I’ll post some photos of the oil pump
This one shows some weird machining marks on the pump left to right.
With scuffing around the circumference
Straight away my alarm bells are ringing, a high quality or genuine pump Does not have these marks
 

Attachments

  • FB0D3188-24B8-4B59-B5C8-DC1EA4AD845E.jpg
    FB0D3188-24B8-4B59-B5C8-DC1EA4AD845E.jpg
    243.9 KB · Views: 447
These show the heavy scoring on the rotors and cover ,suggesting that contaminated oil has passed through it
 

Attachments

  • 4A32D14E-D56D-465F-BA23-D495B61BCE70.jpg
    4A32D14E-D56D-465F-BA23-D495B61BCE70.jpg
    239.9 KB · Views: 937
  • D8D426D9-67AC-4FC2-BCA2-8CD8AA3D067F.jpg
    D8D426D9-67AC-4FC2-BCA2-8CD8AA3D067F.jpg
    240.8 KB · Views: 923
Fair enough, I’ve had mine since 1990 (it’s a 1989 R100GS). It’s had a couple of cosmetic makeovers and, yes, it does need the frame doing now.

It took us to South Africa back then
 

Attachments

  • DBC46193-BF56-4920-88C7-4AAAE57C4D9B.jpg
    DBC46193-BF56-4920-88C7-4AAAE57C4D9B.jpg
    103.7 KB · Views: 898
So we start looking more closely.:blast
Excess clearance between outer rotor and housing
Clearance between inner and outer rotor is 0.3mm
Max recommended is0.2mm
So now,we obviously need to look more closely at the main bearings
 

Attachments

  • 415ED096-62D0-4B1B-AED0-4C2BA2476FDB.jpg
    415ED096-62D0-4B1B-AED0-4C2BA2476FDB.jpg
    240.4 KB · Views: 931
  • F9F51714-E66F-4C5A-8F96-907BB44DE1D5.jpg
    F9F51714-E66F-4C5A-8F96-907BB44DE1D5.jpg
    248.5 KB · Views: 915
An example,
We have just partially stripped a GS para,for mainly cosmetics.
Whilst it’s apart we generally have a good look at a few key components to get a picture of engine “health”
I’ll post some photos of the oil pump
This one shows some weird machining marks on the pump left to right.
With scuffing around the circumference
Straight away my alarm bells are ringing, a high quality or genuine pump Does not have these marks

Should my alarm bells be ringing as well?:blast
 
At the end of the day,it’s each to there own,
Most, like me get limited time off for there’re yearly tour or whatever, I’d hate for my bike to crap itself on the autoroute 500 miles from home.
These bikes can be an investment,a daily ride or a tourer,but they are 30 plus years old and need to start,run and be reliable to be of any use
 


Back
Top Bottom