A brake bleeding question - sorry

Pops

Pops

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2007 1200gs Hexhead with Abs

First of all my apologies to those thinking 'fuck me not another brake bleeding question', but I have searched the site and waded through all the other posts and cannot find the answer so here goes.

I want a simple way to renew the brake fluids on my 2007 gs with ABS.
Can I simply do the old fashioned 'open/close bleed nipple when depressing the lever and keep the reservoir topped up till it runs clear' method, or do I have to go through the more complicated bleed the abs pump separately method?

Any help gratefully accepted from the collective :thumby:
 
Pops said:
2007 1200gs Hexhead with Abs

First of all my apologies to those thinking 'fuck me not another brake bleeding question', but I have searched the site and waded through all the other posts and cannot find the answer so here goes.

I want a simple way to renew the brake fluids on my 2007 gs with ABS.
Can I simply do the old fashioned 'open/close bleed nipple when depressing the lever and keep the reservoir topped up till it runs clear' method, or do I have to go through the more complicated bleed the abs pump separately method?

Any help gratefully accepted from the collective :thumby:
Click to expand...

If you have just the plain and simple ABS brakes then you can indeed bleed them as you describe.

It's the pre 2007 servo/abs which are far more complicated.
 
Steptoe said:
If you have just the plain and simple ABS brakes then you can indeed bleed them as you describe.

It's the pre 2007 servo/abs which are far more complicated.
Click to expand...

Thanks for that glimmer of light Steptoe.
Mine is a late 2007 57 plate, how can I tell if it's one of the simpler ones?
 
Thanks for the replies chaps. :bow
No servo sounds Popell and as you all say, late 2007 so happily no servo.
The bleeding will take place this week along with the rest of the service :thumby:
 
Give the calipers a good clean with the pads out, WD40 and a toothbrush is good followed up with a blast of brake cleaner.
Check all the pistons move smoothly out with a few pumps of the lever and they should push back with your thumbs.
I use little G clamps and test each piston in turn on every vehicle i own.
If you have a lazy piston it will have to be addressed.
 
WD40 shouldn’t be used on callipers as it can “corrode” the seals, best to use just brake cleaner
 
I check the pistons are all moving as they should. If any are sticking, I pump them out one by one and clean the seals. If it needs cleaning use brake cleaner. I avoid any lubricating sprays as they might contain silicone. That will cause the pistons to slip too easily and cause the pads to bind. Use red rubber grease only on the seals. On the pads a little anti seize will keep them moving.

I had issue with the master cylinder drawing in air and was told it needed a new one. :(
Slow lever return movements eased out the fine bubbles then tied the lever back over night with the bar's arranged so bubbles could escape. All was well and its still ok at least two years later. :cool:

The rear master cylinder on mine siezed up. Later types have a better dirt cover and are a straight swap.
 
The best stuff to use as an antiseize compound for brakes is a product called plastilube, made by ATE. Many folk use a smear of copper grease but you really don't want any of that on your friction material or disk faces.
 
It'll get a smear from my tin of Snap On copper paste stuff that I bought 30 years ago and only used about a quarter so far. Everything gets a smear of it and I just can't get through the tin :blast
 
Never heard of him and can't find him on YT, so no, not a follower :nenau
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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