Light restoration

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I'm looking to give my 1150GSA a very light restoration over the winter but there are two areas that would be a lot easier to work on if off the bike. The front engine cover and telelever wishbone, though not sure how easy these are to remove.

Any advice or step by step guides you could point me towards would be much appreciated.

Thanks

T

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In case any pics are needed to help identify what the hell I'm on about.
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Just done the same on mine. Nothing exiting, I did remove forks etc to make access easier. If you are powder coating tape up ball joint recess.
 
Just done the same on mine. Nothing exiting, I did remove forks etc to make access easier. If you are powder coating tape up ball joint recess.
How easy was it to remove those two parts? Interested to know if you need to remove the belt wheels behind the plastic cover before you can remove the metal one I want to spray and if you need to do anything to support the bike or engine when removing the wishbone?
As you can probably tell, not hugely mechanical, but willing to get my hands dirty, I just don't want to start something I can't finish.

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I put car jack and wood under the engine and tied the bike down to the bench to stop it wondering off. Removing the swing arm/ wishbone is fairly simple though the end caps can be corroded and need finessing! Re front cover main pulley will have to be removed and alternator drive belt. I think this link may give you an idea though its for the hall effect replacement https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0g5WD7C4K_0.
 
Good point, that cover does look to be in very good condition! Mine was like the surface of the moon.
 
Just a few points that might be helpful-

1. The nearside cap on the telelever i.e. the one behind the plastic cap, is cast metal. If its corroded itself in place, don't hit the spanner/socket wrench with a hammer as you will snap the end off the cap (don't ask me how I know!!!).....

2. The crankshaft bolt easily removed by wedging a suitably long socket bar up against the telelever then cranking the engine on the starter button...a Steptoe top tip if I remember correctly. You can usualy tighten to correct torque when reassembling by putting bike in gear and applying the rear brake.
3. Replace with new crankshaft oil seal in cover after replacing cover.

4. When tightening ball joint nut, no need for "special tool" (long socket with cut out). The following procedure (from an earlier post) will do the job......

"If you are talking about the collar nut i.e. the one the black plastic cap goes on, you don't need the special socket. Just use a decent length 21mm ring spanner, an allen key socket and ratchet and 21mm socket and torque wrench: 1) Hook ring spanner over nut. 2) cable tie ratchet (with allen key socket attached) to offside fork leg and insert allen socket into top of ball joint. 3) tighten nut till it gets pretty tight. 4) Unhook ratchet but leave tied to fork leg. 5) Set torque wrench to 120 nm and see if you have reached that. 6) if not, repeat steps 1-5 until 120nm reached. 7) increase torque setting to required setting- 130nm if memory serves me correctly. 8) repeat steps 1-6 until desired torque reached.
Ten minutes of a job. PS wrapping a rag round fork leg before cable tying ratchet helps stop it from slipping and protects fork leg.


Hope this helps
 


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