tubeless rim bead sealer

MickDB1

MickDB1

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Has anyone a recommended bead sealer that will save me 99 hours of polishing marks out on the inside of my old wheel rims. I went to using tubes but now I have decided to spend time cleaning the up for tubeless tyres. Also has anyone a recommended rubber tyre valve that seals better than the screw/flange type standard. Been atit 2 hrs = got wankers cramp or similar :D :D :D
T.I.A
 
Your rims must be bad if the tyre doesn't seal without sealer.
 
I spent a few hours cleaning up the front rim on mine - it increased the ‘deflation time’ from about 12 hours to about 3 weeks which is still a PITA in my book. The rim was polished to a mirror finish but still leaks so I think a bead sealer may be the only solution.
 
Just a thought. I remember years ago the VW beatle used a larger valve than the rest of the then comon cars on the road. JJH
 
Tyre repair places have a black sealant, I have no idea what it us but I'm sure it must be so ethingvlijecgunk but a but thicker which they can
brush around rim.
 
I have a pal /tyrefitter who has this black sealant in their fitting bay so thats one answered. I have polished like a mad man but still some marks left here and there. Mikeys tip of a larger valve. Anyone fitted a rubber car type and had any success ??. Dont want to drill or open the hole up before asking - these wheels are getting rarer every day.
Thank you all ---------- happy new year in advance
 
I'd say that if the black sealant can work around rims that it should be equally good at sealing around the valve. I had a winter wheel for my car that was always leaking, got it sealed this,spribgcandcit still has the pressure.
 
I use a good quality 8mm metal valve stem and have found that not overtightening gives a good seal. I test it using fairy liquid/water solution liberally applied with a small paint brush which reveals the tiniest leak. I’ve not tried slime or other similar products but this would have the advantage of sealing punctures as well. Does slime claim to balance the wheel? Stuff I used years ago in tube tyres claimed to do so.
 
MickDB1 said:
I have a pal /tyrefitter who has this black sealant in their fitting bay so thats one answered. I have polished like a mad man but still some marks left here and there. Mikeys tip of a larger valve. Anyone fitted a rubber car type and had any success ??. Dont want to drill or open the hole up before asking - these wheels are getting rarer every day.
Thank you all ---------- happy new year in advance
Click to expand...
The Oe stem is 8mm
Most generic ones are 10mm
I would identify where the actual leak is before taking this course of action
 
Well after another hour or three of rubbing and polishing the inner rims, all is good. I finished off with a SS brillo (pan scourer) the valve has been re rewashed and set with a smear of mastic, I made a tiny Grommit of PTFE = plastic tape for everything and fitted a nylon cushion washer under the retaining nut. jobs a goodun. Thanks for the ideas and recommendations.
What a great section of a great site this is:bounce1:bounce1:bounce1
I am going through the bike front to back getting ready for the next season.
Thanks :thumby::thumby:
 
Towards the end of the sumner I noticed my front wheel of the R100GS losing pressure over space of a few days. Decided to tackle it now with roads being all salty and bike not being used. When I took the tyre off a fair bit of powdery stuff came away from rim area perhaps corrosion or dry soap or cream I might have used when fitting that tyre a couple of years ago ? A bit of a wire wheel on a drill to get the worst gunge and crap off the rim and then a bench grinder mounted polishing wheel with brown compound. All refitted now and all those little small bubble leaks that showed up first inspection have stopped. After polishing the bead seating part of the rim I could see a fair few pit marks, not sure if caused by corrosion or tools used to take previous tyres off but they don't seem to have caused an issue with sealing so far anyway while at 60psi to settle it in. Going to regular pressure after an hour of sitting at 60, I know more madness.
 

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A low sided trug acted as a water bath to find the weep and I swopped the tyre for new and bingo perfect seal.
 
I have had success with rims that were like yours possibly damaged on previous tyre changes,
there is a risk of sanding the taper away next to the inner lip which won't grip the tyre,
a bit of stopper filler and paint over the inner area has done the trick using an appropriate etch primer in the past, and it keeps the corrosion out,
the tyre fitter rim seal may cover it but the bare alloy will corrode again ,
tyre fitting wax paste seems to help against corrosion when fitting even painted wheels where the tyre pushes over the rim,
Hope you get sorted,
 
roamer said:
the bare alloy will corrode again ,
tyre fitting wax paste seems to help against corrosion when fitting even painted wheels where the tyre pushes over the rim,
Hope you get sorted,
Click to expand...

Now ya tell me :D

Ok, so next time I have that tyre off I'll give the metal a bit of turtle wax or similar. Back wheel due a new tyre soon so I might give that the deluxe package of a rub down and wax.

I suppose I should add that before I embarked on this mission I could find no punctures on the tyre, valve wasn't leaking and very small microbubbleses were coming from the tyre- rim interface.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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