Yes you are correct - I took the approach that some people dont see 0V only +/- 12V which was to make things understandable
And yes the 10V is the high pulse i didnt have the engine running or moving to see what the peak & trough values were.
Sockets permanently powered.
- Thread starter milleplod
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Yes you are correct - I took the approach that some people dont see 0V only +/- 12V which was to make things understandable
And yes the 10V is the high pulse i didnt have the engine running or moving to see what the peak & trough values were.
I assume the bike is an original civvy one and not a converted authority bike? The latter have some additional ZFE hadware that means the headstock socket and some other bits remain live for 25mins after switch off - I discovered this when wiring in DRLs
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It's a civvy bike from new. Charging is done direct to the battery. Yep, I checked the headstock plug, it's live all the time. I can't find a second plug near the headstock. I've had a really good look around the headstock while I've got the bike in bits - there's no sign of any chafing on any of the wiring, and no sign of any further additions by the previous owner, it all looks standard. There's the odd, unused factory-fit connector at the front (the ones with the spring clips built-in) which I assume are for things like ESA, cruise and the like, which my bike doesn't have - these are neatly tie-wrapped out of harm's way. There's one aux socket at the rear, it has the standard connector into the factory loom, the one at the front is still disconnected, wires taped up, only because I've not got round to reconnecting it after removing the bodged wiring mentioned earlier.
Pete
Pete
I think the bodge / disconected wires may be the source of your problems
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I wondered that originally. The bodge was a fairly simple one - he'd disconnected the leads from the front aux socket, removed the connector, then extended them with soldered connections up to a Wunderlich (I think) GPS mount above the instruments. He'd then connected a cigarette-lighter socket to the extended cables and powered his phone from that so he could use it as a satnav. All I've done is to remove his extra wiring - what's left are the 2 original cables that went to the front aux, and they're now taped up, unused.
Pete
Seems odd - from your earlier posts, I thought you meant he had fitted some form of separate DIY fuse block, using the aux socket to fire a relay to then power things up. What is the max load on the front Aux I wonder? Not a lot probably, so I'm guessing at 2-5 amps - has a higher value fuse been fitted that has allowed the wiring to fry somewhere? Sorry, clutching at straws TBH, but worth checking the wiring with your meter & the fuse value.
So there is nothing else going on elsewhere either? Like redundant autocom wiring under the seat; nothing to suggest the rear aux socket might have been tapped into, nothing strange/non std at the fusebox area?
Otherwise, it seems like a visit to your GS911 contact.
So there is nothing else going on elsewhere either? Like redundant autocom wiring under the seat; nothing to suggest the rear aux socket might have been tapped into, nothing strange/non std at the fusebox area?
Otherwise, it seems like a visit to your GS911 contact.
Where do the bodged front aux cables come from, and are they perma live ?
if the wiring diagram is correct you should have 2x 2 wire connectors & 1x 3 wire connector
the wiring diagram shows the optional accesory socket as having 6 wires one to the instruments - one to ignition switch & one to the CEU (ecu) 2x for the audio feed & one earth.
From the other side of the CEU (ecu) is the diagnostic plug 6 wires and 3 further sockets 2x 2 wire & one 3 wire of all that lot , only 2 link back to the CEU
I'll put a pic up if it helps
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There's zero extra wiring/connections anywhere that I can see, and all the plastics are off the bike, as is the tank, so I can pretty much see everything. The bodged cables have gone. When I bought the bike, I noticed that the front aux, on the l/h fairing panel, wasn't working. It was only after a month or so of ownership that I got round to investigating why. The socket had no wires going into it - they'd been cut and then an extension soldered to each of the 2, these then running up to a cigarette lighter socket he'd mounted above the instruments. There's none of his bodge left on the bike, just the original wiring that should be connected to the front aux. He didn't go any further into the wiring than the 2 wires to the front aux.
I should add that when I got the bike, there was no rear aux socket. I bought a genuine BMW one and connected it using the factory-supplied connector that was taped the rear loom under the rear l/h panel. It's not been used for anything else. All the wiring to the rear of the battery is standard and unmessed with.
I'll have another look at the front wiring, round the headstock, but I think I've checked everything as much as I can!
Just a thought - could the fact that the 2 front aux wires are disconnected be causing an issue somehow?
Pete
I should add that when I got the bike, there was no rear aux socket. I bought a genuine BMW one and connected it using the factory-supplied connector that was taped the rear loom under the rear l/h panel. It's not been used for anything else. All the wiring to the rear of the battery is standard and unmessed with.
I'll have another look at the front wiring, round the headstock, but I think I've checked everything as much as I can!
Just a thought - could the fact that the 2 front aux wires are disconnected be causing an issue somehow?
Pete
Ah ha; you might be on to something.
Surely, when you fit the rear socket, the ZFE/canbus needs to be instructed accordingly. I didn't think, unlike the pre-wired Nav socket, that additional Aux power points were plug & play. Maybe someone in the know can interject here & enlighten us.
Otherwise, how about you take everything back to factory settings so to speak. Un-plug the rear Aux, rewire the front Aux, do the battery disconnect thing & then see if it all reboots correctly with the normal delay/off function. It might save you a journey.
Surely, when you fit the rear socket, the ZFE/canbus needs to be instructed accordingly. I didn't think, unlike the pre-wired Nav socket, that additional Aux power points were plug & play. Maybe someone in the know can interject here & enlighten us.
Otherwise, how about you take everything back to factory settings so to speak. Un-plug the rear Aux, rewire the front Aux, do the battery disconnect thing & then see if it all reboots correctly with the normal delay/off function. It might save you a journey.
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The rear aux that I fitted was plug & play, in that it worked as soon as I connected it. Will try the 'back to original' though, got to be worth a go.
Pete
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It's just a dumb socket, it doesn't talk to anything, no electronics in it. The front and rear acc sockets are on the same bit of wire. It isn't that cause the issue unless you plug something into the socket and leave it there. USB phone chargers more often than not cause this when left plugged in.
Not strictly true,
Whilst most of the sockets are 2 wire or 3 if required, all are monitored via the canbus for current draw,
so if anything is drawing more then the specified sleep current, the canbus system treats it as still live and requiring that power and does not put that circuit or circuits into sleep mode.
so the drain continues.
The question is what is triggering the stay live thereshold ?
