Rear Brake Caliper Issue?

donned

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Hi All

I've just replaced the rear brake pads on my 2001 R1150GS and obviously they are a lot thicker than the knackerd ones that came off (first time I've changed the pads on this bike). I used the old pads when pushing the pistons all the way in and did the usual cleaning and greasing before installing the the new pads, however when it came to fit the rear wheel I ran into trouble. I can't get the disc to slot in, no matter how hard I try!

I think I've spotted the problem but would like a second opinion before I order a new caliper. I believe the little slider piston at the top of the picture (not the main pistons) has seized up and isn't allowing the floating part of the caliper to move towards the disc to compensate for the new pads. There is no movement in the "painted grey section" vs the "bare aluminium" mount, it seems seized solid at the top, with some movement at the bottom slider.

Has anyone seen or heard of this issue before and is it plausible? If so, is a new/used caliper the only option or are there rebuild kits available? I'm worried that even if I did manage to get the disc slotted in then the new pads would drag and wear unevenly?

Any input appreciated. Thanks

AxOYuCk.jpg
 
Yep
That's not uncommon.
The silver part bolts onto the drive housing, and the caliper slides on 2 pins behind the bellows.
carefully prize them apart, clean up as necessary, re grease and put back together.

HTH
Neil
 
Thanks Neil, good to know it's not an isolated issue and can be re-worked. I think I can unscrew the bottom pin on the picture leaving only the seized one. Any suggestions on how to pry it?

Thanks again

Dec
 
What I did on mine was to soak it in very hot water for about 30 min's
then I was able to pry it apart and clean it all up
 
Just strip it all down, clean and pack the boots of the slider pins with a dab of grease.
You shouldn't push the brake pistons all the way back until you have cleaned everything with a toothbrush and brake cleaner.
Now you have it off it may be a good idea to pop out the pistons and seals and give everything a good clean.
 
donned said:
Thanks Neil, good to know it's not an isolated issue and can be re-worked. I think I can unscrew the bottom pin on the picture leaving only the seized one. Any suggestions on how to pry it?

Thanks again

Dec
Click to expand...
Been there, once you have unscrew the bottom pin start swivelling the caliper to and fro while pulling apart. The seized pin will work itself loose. Clean the pins and the bores that the slide into, lightly grease them and remind to repeat at least once a year and not when changing pads

Sent from my ANE-LX1 using Tapatalk
 
I have tried to unscrew the bottom pin but unfortunately don't have the clearance to get it all the way out to swivel the caliper.:mad:

Will have to get some heat and a big hammer on it i think.
 
Managed to get the caliper on a vice; 1 big brass hammer later and the caliper is split.:D Will get everything smoothed up and and do the pistons while I'm at it.

Cheers for the help all.
 
Any chance you'd take a few pics while you're doing this? Might do the same job on mine at some point. :thumb2
 
Ah, sorry bud, I got the caliper on last night but didn't take any pictures. Simple enough job if you've got it apart. The top pin in the photo above was rusty as hell, so I cleaned it up first with a gentle wire brushing then some emry paper. I used an 8mm drill bit to gently clean out the corresponding bore. The other pin was in good condition. Put a generous amount of grease in the bore/boot and coated the pins, then slide the parts back together making sure the rubber boots are sealed and its job done.
 
What you should have done before removing the caliper and brake pads is to stand at the rear of the bike on the same side as the caliper, hold the rear subframe and put one foot onto the rear caliper and push the caliper as hard as you can with your foot. This spreads the two halves of the caliper.

It's a good thing to do every couple of months as it makes the two halves slide along the full length of the pins helping stop them seize in place due to the tiny amount of movement they use in normal riding. .
 
I had tried that Steptoe, also tried a few clouts with a hammer and extension bar on the back of the pin, but with no joy.

That's a good idea, I'll be sure to do that every once in a while. Cheers
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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