Austrian MotoGP 2018 - Tour 2 Ride Report

Khulu

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It’s 3rd August and it’s time to head over to Spielberg, Austria for the MotoGP races.
The worst part of my journey is always the long, slow slog through England (sorry to all the English but it’s true - 630 miles to the channel tunnel from home). This time I’m leaving from work (Ayrshire) and that will save me about 200 miles to the tunnel.

Day 1 – Fri. 3rd

Surprisingly, I got to the tunnel without too much anguish and, as usual, waited at the side of the platform for most of the cars to board the train and then I did too.
Off the other side and ride a few miles before turning right onto the A26 peage heading south. I decide to stop at Arras (never been there before) as it’s getting late. I manage to find my way into the main square of the town / city and it’s lovely! I mill about a bit until I find some hotels around a car park area where I stop and look for a room for night. First one I check (Hotel Moderne) I get a room no problem and am shown to their private bike area. A good start. Up to my room, a quick change and it’s time to find a beer and somewhere to eat. This place is stunning. I can’t remember what I ate (obviously not outstanding enough to recall) but after it I had a walk about to discover the place (French word!) I passed loads more visitors eating at outside tables along a narrow road and this led into the Place des Heros with more wall to wall stunning architecture and a huge cathedral at the end. Just beautiful!
 

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Day 2 – Sat. 4th

As usual, I’m up early and ready to roll (c. 07:00). I leave Arras (I must come back sometime soon) and head for the A26 as I’ve decided it’s high time I rode the RdGA again. It’s been a few years since my last visit so now’s the time for a return trip.
I spent a nice relaxing day cruising down the peage at 80mph heading for Reims, Troyes, Annecy and Albertville. Previously I’ve stayed at Albertville but, this time, I fancied staying at a roadside place I’ve passed before just outside Beaufort on the D925. (I’ll try Beaufort any time). La Cascade is its name and it was a fine place to stop. Good beer and food sitting out on their terrace (once I’d help three German H-D riders get all their bikes into the small barn). Mine was first in but I was also going to be first out so we had to re-arrange them all.
 

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Day 3 – Sun. 5th

The last time I rode the RdGA I turned off at Jausiers and went via Isola to Italy but, this time, I carried on to the Col de la Cayolle (D2202) heading to Guillaumes. A great day of riding passes and every bit enjoyable as I remember. I stopped at Guillaumes and found a room for the night just as the rain arrived.
 

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This is Guillaumes:
 

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Day 4 – Mon.6th
Tonight’s destination is Passo Pordoi, Italy and I’ve booked a hotel room for two nights there. Booking a hotel in advance is not something I generally do but as Tour 1 in the Dolomites had crap weather I want to arrive there, stay the night and ride around the Dolomites for a day and return to the same hotel I left from. Leaving Guillaumes I take the D28 heading east and then I’m aiming for Isola and into Italy. If I remember correctly the D28 was fine but when it turned into the D30 it became one of these high mountain edge roads that have two-way traffic on blind narrow bends – my pet hate! Arsey enjoys these and this one was similar to the Gorge du Verdon road he likes and I hate. I love the Gorges du Tarn where you meander next to the river at the bottom of the gorge.
Anyway, I survived the road and intend never to ride it again! I headed north-east across Italy and rode up the Brenner Pass (A22 autostrasse) to Bolzano (Bozen). This is a lovely road as you ride along a valley with rolling hills on both sides. (Hot, sunny weather helps I suppose). The ride from Bolzano to Canazei and on to Passo Pordoi was just lovely.
I arrive at my Col di Lana hotel and it’s right at the top of the pass with views to die for. As luck would have it they sell Ayinger Weiss beer so I thought I’d better try one, or two – so I did!
After a walk about the top of the pass (and a few obligatory photos) it was time for dinner. Now the room rate was reasonable and it included a four course (multiple choice) dinner so I didn’t expect it to be up to much. Boy, was I wrong! It was really great and all washed down with some of the local red which was fantastic! I definitely struck it lucky here – I’ll be back!
 

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Dinner at the Col di Lana:
 

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Dolomites:

Day 5 – Tues.7th

It is Dolomite passes day today!
I leave my hotel and head for Passo Sella then Passo Gardena and on to Falzarego and Giau. I then headed for the town of Dont and then Agordo and passo di S. Pellegrino before heading north and north-east east again towards Canazei and passo fedaia. By this time it was mid. afternoon and I was hot, hungry and thirsty so needed to stop for refreshments. I soon reached a Rifugio (at Lago di Fedaia I found out later) and, unknown to me, there was the Marmolada and it was looking stunning. Park the bike on the wall and stop, in the shade, for food and cold drink and time to just watch everybody at play. After this I went through Arabba and back to my hotel to chill (have a Weiss beer). Fantastic scenery everywhere you look and just brilliant roads to ride all day. You could spend days and days here and I think I’ll have to come back for a longer stay in the area.
 

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More Dolomites:
 

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Marmolada time:
 

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More Marmolada:
 

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Passo Pordoi chill time:
 

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Day 6 – Wed. 8th

It’s now time to leave and head for Austria. Cortina seems a good direction to go so I head for there and then head north. I stop for breakfast and a nice roadside place across from a small lake in the Tre Cime area – absolutely gorgeous! From here I head to Gmund, Austria to a garden centre I’ve visited before to buy my wife some more, authentic, brass cow bells. Why, you may ask? Because I can (and I’ve bought her some before that she’s put in a safe place.) [Gmund is where the Porsche museum is that I’ve been in another year previously.] Last time the garden centre only took cash but now they take card, but only Maestro! Back out to the bike to get my cash after all.
It’s mid afternoon so I head to Malta to the Gasthof Hochalmspitze I’ve stayed at before. I get there and all appears closed. The downstairs workshop / garage and back door are open but nobody is home. I walk about the village, taking pictures, for a while and then return. Mein host has returned and, sadly, his wife had been taken seriously ill with cancer and was hospitalised quite a distance away. I was the only resident that evening so it was a very sombre affair.

These photos are from just north of Cortina: (except the last one [which should been first as it's still passo pordoi - sorry!])
 

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Last edited:
Malta, Austria:
 

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Day 7 – Thurs. 9th
I leave my gasthof and head for Spielberg for the Blue campsite area just below the circuit. I camped here for the 2016 MotoGP and it was a great party venue. There was (and still is) an official free band area and beer tent / eateries as well as the unofficial campsite beer / band / food tents of which there are more than in 2016. I’ve arranged to meet friends for a beer who I first came across at the Mugello MotoGP in 2017 and then bumped into them at Catalunya MotoGP the week after! They’re over from NE England in their campervan (I want one).
What follows for the next four nights and three days are various stages of partying so this RR section will be more photos than text.
This year there were tribute bands on both Friday and Saturday nights. Looking good!
I didn’t see any of the bands on the Friday because it rained a lot in the afternoon and shelter was sought in one of the many campsite band / beer tents where live music was also being played. I did, however, attend on the Saturday night after dinner. What we didn’t know was when the bands were playing so, by the time we arrived up the hill to the MotoGP band stage, the Bon Jovi tribute band had finished (bastards!) – that could have been really good too. Next up was the Queen tribute band from Italy called “Break Free”. They were brilliant! The guy masquerading as Freddie was excellent. They definitely rocked the “house”. If they’re playing somewhere I’m near next summer I’ll pay to go and see them they were that good. AC/DC band were also very good.
Sunday night is always a quiet affair as it is ride time in the morning. However, I was camped pretty close to one of the beer tents and although most campers left after the races they were still blasting out shite music until the small hours – sleep was not the best.
 

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More MotoGP pics:
 

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Day 11 – Mon. 13th
Time to pack up and leave, so I do.
I’m heading, roughly, for Imst and then up the east coast of the Bodensee to stop, somewhere, in Germany (much cheaper than Switzerland) past Lindau area. I stop near Friedrichshafen just as the rain starts coming down – lucky timing. The “Landhaus” had a single room available but didn’t do dinner. OK, I’ll find somewhere locally. A 2-3 mile walk in the rain to a locally hostelry for food and beer then ensued but, unfortunately, it was closed on Sundays! Walk back and have a couple of Weiss beers and a large bag of crisps for dinner from the hotel “trust” fridge.
 

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