Tyre pressure sensors

NicD

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Lots of posts and info about replacing batteries. My question is slightly different. Batteries died about 8k ago immediately after I had last tyres fitted - sods law. Need to fit new tyres now so wondering about replacing.

Initially there was a warning light on dash. Warning light now disappeared. If I replace batteries now, will the sensors work again or will they need to be woken up - I have read some of the multiple threads on how to do this.

I am wondering if it is worth the faff to be honest. May just leave as is. Any thoughts appreciated. cheers
 
Lots of posts and info about replacing batteries. My question is slightly different. Batteries died about 8k ago immediately after I had last tyres fitted - sods law. Need to fit new tyres now so wondering about replacing.

Initially there was a warning light on dash. Warning light now disappeared. If I replace batteries now, will the sensors work again or will they need to be woken up - I have read some of the multiple threads on how to do this.

I am wondering if it is worth the faff to be honest. May just leave as is. Any thoughts appreciated. cheers

Just a guess. If the tps stopped working when the tyers were changed it’s lightly that the sensor was damaged. Too much of a coincidence for me. JJH
 
Id also suggest the sensor was damaged by the tyre change and the fracture in the body just got worse till it failed.That said if you have the tyre off you can check the plastic body and if intact replace the battery, refill with hot glue or sealant.

If you are just going to put new batteries in which is the most faffing around, then just buy this tool from amazon or ebay to wake up the sensor, then all should work as before.


https://www.amazon.co.uk/JDiag-EL-5...+Tire+Pressure+Monitor+Sensor+Activation+Tool

I tried one of those on mine and it didnt seem to wake either front or rear.

If you want new its £143.66 including fitting and coding onto the ecu @ BMW
 
Id also suggest the sensor was damaged by the tyre change and the fracture in the body just got worse till it failed.That said if you have the tyre off you can check the plastic body and if intact replace the battery, refill with hot glue or sealant.



I tried one of those on mine and it didnt seem to wake either front or rear.

If you want new its £143.66 including fitting and coding onto the ecu @ BMW
That cheap, shurly some kind of mistake or was it a special offer price ?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk
 
Id also suggest the sensor was damaged by the tyre change and the fracture in the body just got worse till it failed.That said if you have the tyre off you can check the plastic body and if intact replace the battery, refill with hot glue or sealant.



I tried one of those on mine and it didnt seem to wake either front or rear.

If you want new its £143.66 including fitting and coding onto the ecu @ BMW

Strange that Andi mine woke up no problem at all 2 new sensors that we put in my mates bike a 2012 GS, and then just put in the serial number in the GS-911 and all went good.............:confused: as Gs has 4 places for the serial numbers.
 
That cheap, shurly some kind of mistake or was it a special offer price ?

Sent from my SM-G925F using Tapatalk

When I enquired last year after the rear being sporadic it was £100 plus fitting so I did the battery mod but its very erratic and as its due in for a service next week and I requested a new one

£295.92 service [including timing], plus £35 MOT and stated price for the replacement TPS

Strange that Andi mine woke up no problem at all 2 new sensors that we put in my mates bike a 2012 GS, and then just put in the serial number in the GS-911 and all went good.............:confused: as Gs has 4 places for the serial numbers.

Maybe I received a dodgy unit
 
Purchased the same unit ( EL50448) from China for under£6 delivered and it works a treat.
Also enabled me to retrieve the codes on a couple of sensors that i thought were dodgy as a High end code reader could not get the codes from them.
 
Thanks. Will see if i have time when change the tyres. Not a big deal either way I don't think
 
batteries die around the 9 to 10 year 30 k miles mark, a new BM one is 135 plus vat plus fitting which I guess has to be an hour with coding...

the fakes are probably OK and most of the people on ebay offering "genuine ones" at 80 quid are selling nasty ones

you don't need any tools to wake them up... mine do it with a kick of the wheel (you could always fit them then go for a ride, you get 15mins before they fall asleep again) there are two sets of codes A and B (allegedly for a spare set of wheels)

later BMW sensors with a 7 digit bt code (2007 to 2011 were 6 digit) offer a slightly more stable reading (as temp and pressure offset was more carefully calculated), on the GS and K series bike (and I expect all others) you can enable the temp reading on the kombi with one tick box using the right tool, it gives something else to play with on a long run / gives another safety feature if you use them to gauge how much grip you are likely to have available.

fakes vs fighting battery replacement is probably the right way forward, then just get the tyre fitter to put them in they've been doing it for years and its nothing new.... as std they are covered in thread lock and FT to get off (a bit of heat helps)

intrigued you have no flashing warning after years of being flat.... I would suggest either when both don't give a signal it gives up (but don't believe it), someone turned it off, something else broke
 
Mine were flat for at least two sets of tyres. They woke up without help after new Duracells were fitted.

Carefully dig out the potting compound. Note the battery polarity and pry off the tabs with small screwdriver. Solder tin the tab ends. Tin the Duracell faces with solder and use a short wire to connect the underside tag. The top tag is easy access for soldering. I used car body grade acrylic sealant but electronics grade silicone does the job.

I don't remember any warnings showing with no sensors fitted (or flat batteries) but weak batteries would give a false (low) that does raise the warning triangle.

Do any of the car manufacturer pressure sensors work with the bike electronics?
 
autel do a set of car ones and a comms pad to programme the code.... u can get all in for 100 quid if u try.... can be programmed to suit most brands of cars. but never listed anything about bikes and the tool could never wake up my bike ones. I got a set to put in my car... but never tried to put on the bike...

would prob get smashed up by the next trye fitter as they get the tyre off, as not slimline ones that sit in the rim "well"

nintendo console batteiries have the tags on to make life a lot easier - so less likely to break the sensors replacing the batteries
 
Am going to repalce batteries when tyres changed. If they don't wake up I can deal with that whenever i have time

I have two questions I would be interested in hearing people's views on (if they know)

1. Silicone: I think non-acetoxy silicone is what is needed to avoid possibility of corrosion of electrical contacts. Any neutral cure should work. Any reason not to use cheap one eg https://www.toolstation.com/everbuild-silicone-825-380ml/p85598

2. Battery: reading through Nicholas Van den Berg's doc on how to do the replacement, he does not discuss soldering the negative battery terminal. I assume contact is maintained through centrifugal force. Bendy Toy, your short wire suggestion is just a way of connecting negative to the sensor tab, presumably with the wire being folded under the battery before it is siliconed? Have people had issues not soldering the negative connection?

Cheers
 
Had no issues not soldering the Negative.
I would recommend using the batteries with tags spot welded to them as heat soldering directly to the case does not do the battery any flavors.
The big advantage of using the cheap wake up tool is you do not have to fit the sensor to check it is working with the new battery. Obviously it wont show any pressure but will show that it is working and linked to the ECU.
Never had any luck with waking up the sensors by rapid deflation, deflation over 10 seconds, bouncing the wheel on the floor or kicking the tyres, but the wake up tool works a treat.
If you clear the code for a sensor in the ECU, then when you wake up a new sensor with the tool it automatically writes the code for the new sensor to the ECU which is very handy.
 


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