Rear Crank Seal Tool
- Thread starter RFOZ
- Start date
is it to take the old one out or put the new one in ?
taking the old one out drill two tiny holes in the center of the seal at say three and nine oclock , then put two small self tappers in then give it a tug.
to put the new one in a smear of fairy liquid then use a rubber mallet and tap around very gently so it goes in square ,then use the old seal and a rubber mallet just to get it home
taking the old one out drill two tiny holes in the center of the seal at say three and nine oclock , then put two small self tappers in then give it a tug.
to put the new one in a smear of fairy liquid then use a rubber mallet and tap around very gently so it goes in square ,then use the old seal and a rubber mallet just to get it home
There is a BMW tool to put the new one in. You need to open up the seal a little to get it over and I don't want to be doing it twice once you've taken so much off to get in there.
Surely fairy up liquid will just react badly with the rubber and cause premature failure?
Surely fairy up liquid will just react badly with the rubber and cause premature failure?
i have used fairy on seals for years never a problem
anyway have a look here at this guy yes there is a tool or as he explains there are cheaper ways to do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQHdsxl0u5I
anyway have a look here at this guy yes there is a tool or as he explains there are cheaper ways to do it
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dQHdsxl0u5I
I’m pretty certain that there is a lip machined in the body of the casing so that the crank shaft oil seal bottoms out. Certainly the case on the R1200.
Makes sure all surfaces are clean and free from burrs. Lightly coat the sealing surface of the seal (interface with crankshaft) with clean engine oil and using a suitable drift (usually a socket, though I think I used the oil filter removal tool) gently tap it home evenly until it bottoms out. You shouldn’t have any problem easing it over the crankshaft. Just be careful.
The seal is a dynamic seal and requires a small amount of oil on it so that it can create a rotating seal.
Makes sure all surfaces are clean and free from burrs. Lightly coat the sealing surface of the seal (interface with crankshaft) with clean engine oil and using a suitable drift (usually a socket, though I think I used the oil filter removal tool) gently tap it home evenly until it bottoms out. You shouldn’t have any problem easing it over the crankshaft. Just be careful.
The seal is a dynamic seal and requires a small amount of oil on it so that it can create a rotating seal.
Done mine using a cut up plastic bottle, made a sleeve to fit the crank and fitted new seals. If I remember right there's a lip/groove in crank that seal catches on if you don't use a sleeve of some sorts. Can't remember for sure so I could be talking shit.
Cut the end off a coke can, push seal onto can so the seal inner is foleded backwards then insert can into rear of crank and slide the seal over the can into place 
I understand about the groove in the crank hence the sleeve ideas.
This may help you understand the concept.
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...=wLKCjZ1wvfc&usg=AOvVaw33ilDQWJ4FwUVplQyFwYKr
https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sou...=wLKCjZ1wvfc&usg=AOvVaw33ilDQWJ4FwUVplQyFwYKr
Just done an 1100 one last night, in the end a wee bit of heat and preform the seals and rubber grease and a hide hammer did the job. Looks like the seals sit at different depths ours was 2.5mm off the face and re set to that, have seen others pushed all the way in. From the look of the output shaft you can push them all the way in or set them to a suitable depth.
I replaced mine both recently, twice, because I didn't do it properly the first time - which was an expensive mistake with the seals being 22 quid each and needing new flywheel and clutch stretch bolts too...
Steptoe's tip is the one to go for, standard drinks can is the perfect size to slide the seal over to preform it and to avoud catching it on the notch in the shaft (which is what I did on my first attempt). I used the same technique for both inner and outer seals to minimise the amount of preform over what was required to slide the seal over the shaft.
The inner most seal drives all the way home against a step in the hole. The outermost seal should be inserted "so that it protrudes/is indented as much as the one removed" according to the service manual. in reality, mine was basically flush with the outside face.
Steptoe's tip is the one to go for, standard drinks can is the perfect size to slide the seal over to preform it and to avoud catching it on the notch in the shaft (which is what I did on my first attempt). I used the same technique for both inner and outer seals to minimise the amount of preform over what was required to slide the seal over the shaft.
The inner most seal drives all the way home against a step in the hole. The outermost seal should be inserted "so that it protrudes/is indented as much as the one removed" according to the service manual. in reality, mine was basically flush with the outside face.
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