Fuze Block installation - advice for newbie

P248

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My apologies if the answers are already in the Forum somewhere. I have searched but without success.
I’m about to take delivery of my first GS, a brand new R1250 GS TE Excl. I want to install a Fuze Block and I’m looking for advice on where to locate the box itself, and how & where to connect the live switch wire. I would prefer not to splice into a wire in the existing loom, but would prefer to make up a short connecting harness with suitable connectors at each end which can be inserted between existing connectors in the loom somewhere. Has anyone done this? This will be my first experience with a CAN BUS system and I don’t want to mess up.

Thanks in advance for any help offered.
 
I found the tail area under the passenger seat the best place for a fuse box or other device and a switched live [with actual live feed from the battery] can be sought on the plug under the front seat

99d53197dde9758e57b4af5d012b21af.png



Alternatly there is the Hex EZCan and CanSwitch

http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php/471785-HEXEZCAN-or-CANSWITCH
 
Thanks AA.
I’m hoping to avoid Posi-taps and the like because I’m concerned about potential warranty problems if any sort of electrical fault develops. On my V-Strom there is a connector in the bike's brake light feed. I bought a pair of male and female connectors identical to the OEM ones in the bike's wiring and made up a short wiring loom with the Fuze Block switch wire tapped into one of the connectors. I opened up the connector in the bike's harness and inserted my new loom without damaging or making any changes to the bike's original wiring. I’d like to do the same on the GS but I can’t find any pointers to where I will find a suitable connector in the new bike.
 
Andi_archer said:
99d53197dde9758e57b4af5d012b21af.png
Click to expand...

You see a plug in the picture with red cables leading to it.
If you pull out the plug, you will see that it's actually a fuse holder, holding 2 fuses. I think they power the instrument panel and ignition switch. Whatever it is, at least one of them is switched on and of with ignition. If you use a Fuse tap, you will be able to get a signal for the Fuze Block. The connector that holds this plug to the bike is just a dummy that keeps the fuses sealed and the plug in position. Using a Fuse tap, you will have to find a way of sealing the plug.


A bit late perhaps, but personally I would prefer the CANswitch or the EZ can. Using the CAN switch you are able to get an output signal that switches with engine running as well as an output for ignition On/Off. EZ can is a bit more limited, but still a good choice if you can do with the outputs they offer. Both of them tap the signals from CAN-bus.
 
The Fuse Tap looks simple and quite neat.
I’ve found the EZcan on eBay but can’t find the CANswitch; do you know where I can find the CANswitch in the UK? Thanks.
 
P248 said:
The Fuse Tap looks simple and quite neat.
I’ve found the EZcan on eBay but can’t find the CANswitch; do you know where I can find the CANswitch in the UK? Thanks.
Click to expand...

I think you have to order the CAN switch directly from the people (person?) making it.
http://canswitch.co.za/index.html


There are instructions on their website on how to order.
The CAN switch is a bit more bulky than the EZ-can, but it is freely programable, so you may get functions as you like.
 
On my RTs, I bought the 12v splitter cable that is on the larger 1600 bikes with a dual outlet, this means I can unplug the 12v supply plug in the splitter, plug back in the 12v supply socket, then take the live from that. When the weather warms up, I’ll be putting the splitter on my GSA to get a switched feed for my PDM60.
No cutting and no warranty issues and when I sell the bike, it’s no problems for new owner with spliced wires etc.
 
Andi_archer said:
I found the tail area under the passenger seat the best place for a fuse box or other device and a switched live [with actual live feed from the battery] can be sought on the plug under the front seat

99d53197dde9758e57b4af5d012b21af.png
Click to expand...

That's where I put my Fuzeblock, taking the switched live from same place as you. The difference being I cut in to the loom and soldered the switched live, then wrapped in self amalgamating tape.
 
Thanks for all the info and the pics.

Does anyone know if there is a connector in the bike's existing harness leading to the fuses shown in the pics, or perhaps in the harness leading to the bike's rear light? My preference would be to make a short loom with suitable connectors at each end which I could insert into the the bike's harness at the existing connector without using anything like a Posi-tap connector. The the signal wire from the new Fuze Block would be wired into the new short loom.

Wobble, your idea seems to be a good option. Do you happen to know the part number? Does it just plug into RT's existing loom behind the existing socket?
 
P248 said:
Thanks for all the info and the pics.

Does anyone know if there is a connector in the bike's existing harness leading to the fuses shown in the pics, or perhaps in the harness leading to the bike's rear light? My preference would be to make a short loom with suitable connectors at each end which I could insert into the the bike's harness at the existing connector without using anything like a Posi-tap connector. The the signal wire from the new Fuze Block would be wired into the new short loom.

Wobble, your idea seems to be a good option. Do you happen to know the part number? Does it just plug into RT's existing loom behind the existing socket?
Click to expand...

What are you trying to power?
The rear light is a combined unit with the brake. The same wire has a low voltage feed to give the rear light and then if the brake is applied it gives it the full 12v (or 14 with engine running). If you put anything other than a very low additional load it'll trigger the CANBUS to call the red card and shut the power off and start flashing warning lights - Guess how I know...

Best bet is to take a "trigger" from under the seat as per Andi_archer to a relay and power the relay direct from the battery. You can get a thing off ebay that takes the power from the fuse located there. https://ebay.us/bvRzqG
 
Jimbo,

I want to connect a trigger wire for a relay. I do not like tapping into the bike's own cables using posi-taps and the like, because they damage the insulation and the wiring inside, even though the damage may be only minor. I would prefer to separate an existing connector and insert a short extra specially made loom between the existing male and female connectors. This extra loom would be built up of exactly the same wires as in the original with the relay trigger wire spliced in to the new loom at one of the connectors. This way, the new loom can be removed if required and the bike's wiring reinstated to the manufacturer's spec., with no potential warranty problems.
 
Let us know if you find one that can be connected/'piggy backed' and what connectors are needed.

TIA
 
here is the ebay piggy back thing plugged into the fuse under the rider's seat, which is the trigger for my relay. it stays live for about 60 secs after the ignition goes off.

I vaguely recall having to move the connector 90 degrees to make it fit, but no cutting etc to the wiring.

The piggy back thing rehouses the existing fuse and then has another one for the additional power leads it creates
 

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Thanks Jimbo. That looks a good option. I'll go that way if I can't find suitable connectors in the bike's loom.
 
One last question for everyone: does anyone have any pics of the wiring connector which plugs into the back of the rear light assembly? This would be a neat place to insert a bespoke wiring harness carrying the trigger wire for the Fuze Block.
 
P248 said:
One last question for everyone: does anyone have any pics of the wiring connector which plugs into the back of the rear light assembly? This would be a neat place to insert a bespoke wiring harness carrying the trigger wire for the Fuze Block.
Click to expand...

I don't have a picture, but there is not a permanent 12/14.4v feed to the rear light. Its only full voltage when the brake light is illuminated. The rear light is the same circuit as the brake, but with using a lower voltage for a dimmer light. You may need to source a relay that triggers are a lower voltage than the usual 12v.
 
Thanks Jimbo. Does that mean that the various videos I’ve seen which advocate using the feed to the rear light are referring to earlier models of the GS? And the only suitable switched live on late GSs (1200 & 1250) is the feed to the 7.5 amp fuse in the fuse box under the front seat?
I’m surprised that I haven’t been able to find any advice anywhere on how to tap into a switched live on the GS without using posi-taps and the like, which damage the oe wiring, or expensive devices like the Ezcan. The only damage-free method seems to be the fuse-tap mentioned above. For my V-Strom (which has conventional non-CANBUS electrics) there’s a wealth of information in the various forums on methods of connecting into the bike's wiring without modifying it using a mini harness inserted between existing connectors in various locations around the bike.
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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