Fellow tosses can you help? I have just purchased my first 2003 1150gs with servo ABS. The pads are all shot and binding. Can I bleed the brakes like a normal bike? Can I force the pistons back using the bleed nipple. I don’t want to upset the abs system that’s all working fine.
Help 1150gs brakes
- Thread starter Luke2184
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I have a set of brake piston spreaders but, have used a large flat screwdriver or tyre lever to push pistons back without removing master cylinder cover in the past.
Easy easy.
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Easy easy.
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I used to push them back slowly, with bleed nipple open, never caused me any problems; nor the bike either
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As per the above advice. But I'd be inclined to take out the pads, then ease out the pistons a little further, clean them off with warm soapy water (car shampoo, not washing up liquid!) And use some fine, 0000, wire wool around the pistons to clean of the crud. Only then push them back in. You'll want to presumably give the calipers the same treatment.
Bleeding the servo brakes is not quite as straightforward as normal brakes but it's not difficult either. Lots on here about got to do it. In short, you have a circuit from the lever to the servo pump that needs bleeding. You then have the 'power' circuit from the pump that actually pushes the pistons. When doing the latter, you can use the pump itself to force through the new fluid.
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Bleeding the servo brakes is not quite as straightforward as normal brakes but it's not difficult either. Lots on here about got to do it. In short, you have a circuit from the lever to the servo pump that needs bleeding. You then have the 'power' circuit from the pump that actually pushes the pistons. When doing the latter, you can use the pump itself to force through the new fluid.
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When I service my Brake system, I manage to push the pistons back without having to crack open the bleed nipple. I unbolt the calliper(s) one at a time and ease the pads back until the pistons are fully home.
Replace pads and refit, or if I’m bleeding the system, I fit spacer blocks to keep the pistons fully seated until after the bleed, then refit pads and refit callipers.
Replace pads and refit, or if I’m bleeding the system, I fit spacer blocks to keep the pistons fully seated until after the bleed, then refit pads and refit callipers.
sykospain
Registered user
Only trouble with forcing the pistons back into the caliper until level is the amount of crud and gunge on the outer surface of the piston. If it's hard and rough it can compromise the seals' ability to keep the fluid inside the caliper.
Best to push them OUT as far as poss first, then clean them up as advised in the earlier post until they shine like your chromed fork tubes. I invested in one of those funny scissor-type extractors by Sealy and such people, that allow you to turn the piston round in the caliper without harming the important outer surface.
Then when your new pads and fluid are installed, your brakes will work like new again.
On the Toob, there's a nice video by a Jap chap showing the procedure. Can't recall the link though.
Best to push them OUT as far as poss first, then clean them up as advised in the earlier post until they shine like your chromed fork tubes. I invested in one of those funny scissor-type extractors by Sealy and such people, that allow you to turn the piston round in the caliper without harming the important outer surface.
Then when your new pads and fluid are installed, your brakes will work like new again.
On the Toob, there's a nice video by a Jap chap showing the procedure. Can't recall the link though.
Great advice everyone, can I bleed the entire system after changing the pads, or is it best to get it done by a Bmw?
Depending on your spannering skills it can be done yourself, there are a number of threads on here and some useful info on this site
It’s not as simple as non-servo systems but is not too difficult.
Read this and try and Understand the basics. The servo brake system has 4 separate systems. Front and rear control and front and rear power circuits.
Each system has it’s own reservoir.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf
Each system has it’s own reservoir.
http://users.rcn.com/dehager/service/service_abs3.pdf
Cheers everyone, the link is great, I asked Pidcock Bmw for a quote And they want two hundred quid to do it
Well I fucked up already, one piston popped out completely, now abs system is flashing like mad and hazard light warning thing going off. In any case all the pistons are clean now
All is not last I suspect. Follow the instructions and bleed both circuits, a spare pair of hands would probably help. Hopefully this will fix the problem.
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