roamer
Registered user
The main crankshaft rear plain bearing ,
is flanged over to control lateral movement and take thrust load,
is flanged over to control lateral movement and take thrust load,
Noise from front engine casing.
- Thread starter zmh2012
- Start date
Bendy toy
Registered user
Don't forget to remove that old gasket sealant from the oil passage.
Just to confirm is the main crankshaft rear plan bearing accessed from the front cover area or is it an engine removal to get to it? Tried to find the bearing from the BMW microfische but cannot see it. Thanks
roamer
Registered user
Its part of the main Shell bearing at the rear behind the oil seal ,
if you go on real oem or max bmw fiche look at crankshaft you will see the two halves of the rear flanged over compared to the front,
its unlikely to be an issue, a dry bearing will get louder and nip fairly quickly ,
is it possible the crankshaft sensor that sits under the alternator has been pushed down during the alternator swap, that would make some noise rubbing on the toothed reluctor gear in post 18,
did you get the cover off ?,
if you go on real oem or max bmw fiche look at crankshaft you will see the two halves of the rear flanged over compared to the front,
its unlikely to be an issue, a dry bearing will get louder and nip fairly quickly ,
is it possible the crankshaft sensor that sits under the alternator has been pushed down during the alternator swap, that would make some noise rubbing on the toothed reluctor gear in post 18,
did you get the cover off ?,
Bendy toy
Registered user
The belt cover is in two parts is it catching on the belt. Removing the belt will prove the issue.
The belt is off and the noise is still there, have removed the alternator /suspension etc so I can get to the front cover but cannot remove the exhausts as the previous owner has sheared the two the exhaust retaining bolts, one each side. Does anybody know if you can get the front cover off with the exhausts in place, I dont want to break the seal and then find I cant get the cover off.
The crankshaft sensor does not seem be pushed down, do - another question do have to lock off the engine when I remove the crankshaft sensor as I would really like to turn the engine when the cover is off to see I can see anything rubbing, if its a dry bearing so bit it.
Thanks again for all the comments.
The crankshaft sensor does not seem be pushed down, do - another question do have to lock off the engine when I remove the crankshaft sensor as I would really like to turn the engine when the cover is off to see I can see anything rubbing, if its a dry bearing so bit it.
Thanks again for all the comments.
That isn't his engine, as it says in the post, it's an old one patzx12 has taken a picture of.
After reading this thread from first to last post for the first time my comment would be “Put the tools down and step away from the bike”. .
patzx12
Registered user
No way, it is all a learning curve, the GS is one of the simplest bikes to work on.
Everything on the GS is easy to get at.
You will have to remove the exhausts due to the cross pipe. Are the exhaust studs damaged?
Yes, and so far everything he’s touched has gone from bad to worse. And with all different opinions added (all based on guess work) i can’t see it getting better...... I’m almost at the point of turning work away that people have tried to fix themselves and made things ten times worse after taking advice from the internet.
Best advice so far I came to a similar conclusion by post #20 If you don't know what your doing put it back together and give it to someone who does.
With all due respect and I am all for having a go at mechanics but this sounds like you've bitten off more than you can chew.
roamer
Registered user
The pre existing broken bolts need repairing anyway, that will require the exhaust off,
Spend some time getting the non broken ones out in one piece,
The crank sensor isnt timed so you can just pull it out, and check it,
Out of interest what if any other work did you do to the engine,
The alternator swap may be a coincidence, consider everything done recently,
I have had faulty car oil filters and trapped// blocked crankcase breathers make an engine whine like that,
I am with pat on this , stick with it for now,
Not seeing where the OP is making it worse or making it hard for a pro to fix,
Spend some time getting the non broken ones out in one piece,
The crank sensor isnt timed so you can just pull it out, and check it,
Out of interest what if any other work did you do to the engine,
The alternator swap may be a coincidence, consider everything done recently,
I have had faulty car oil filters and trapped// blocked crankcase breathers make an engine whine like that,
I am with pat on this , stick with it for now,
Not seeing where the OP is making it worse or making it hard for a pro to fix,
It starts from the OP’s second paragraph, he assembles it with the pulleys out of alignment - now, is that cause of the noise or not. Never mind, let’s all take pot luck having random guesses - and if a pro looks at it he’ll gave to go all the way back to square one ignoring all the guess work that’s been done so far = which costs money.
Thanks for all the comments.
I have found this forum to have been of great use over the years so have decided to put all back together, down tools , step away and look at my options.
I have found this forum to have been of great use over the years so have decided to put all back together, down tools , step away and look at my options.
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