the auxilliary socket on my GSA is in a really awkward place so i decided to fit another one on the beak a la the GSAs of old.
easy enough to do with one hand behind my back, but i get cramp with it tied up there, so i took some pics with my free hand instead.
i used the TT kit, but most of it is no use at all. bracket would look awful if used, wires are too short & sleeving is WAY too short, and i wouldn't use those IDC things if you paid me. just buy a socket from somewhere cheaper & scrounge some wire & sleeving.
you can do this with the beak on the bike, but i reckon it's better to take it off. similarly, you can take the tank right off to run the wires, but i didn't.
panel bolts are all different lengths, so i've noted which are which
bodywork
first take the winglets off (20mm)
tank side covers off.
rear bolt (20mm)
front bolt, just behind forks (12mm)
pull the cover off. it's now held by this push fit thing into grommet shown on frame. use silicone grease on reassembly so it doesn't pull the grommet out next time
beak to tank top cover screw (16mm)
beak to frame screw (16)
beak extender screw (25mm). this also fixes to the frame & holds temperature sender if OBC is fitted to your bike.
just pull up the inner trim panels
beak should now pull forward off the pins shown centre pic.
this is the temperature sender
inside of beak is marked where socket should go. feck knows why they did it with an oval though
marked with felt pen so i don't drill the wrong side
socket diameter
hand mark hole centre with punch & pilot drill hole.
stick some masking tape over the top side of the beak & drill it out bigger.
you could use a cone cut now to enlarge the hole, but i used a round file, it's safer.
good job, shit photo.
wiring.
i used a piece of twin & earth house flex as a mouse to draw wiring through gap between tank & LHS of the frame.
in here.
emerges here. small side panel needs to be removed (just pull it off).
wires zip tied to frame as shown.
bung on a couple of crimps for the socket (red to centre).
wires can be piggy backed onto the standard aux. socket if desired. i put them across the battery via a fuse. this bypasses the limit of 7amps dictated by the canbus + it allows a non bmw 1200 charger to be connected. other fuse visible is earlier fitment for my gps. i could have taken that from the back of the new socket, but it would have needed a lower fuse rating & i just didn't want to put a second one in line.
finished wiring at battery end. 10amp fuse.
sling it all back together, and this is the finished job
i've got a handy place to plug my bmw waistcoat in now. until the cable breaks anyway
if i've missed something, or you know any improvements, feel free to point it out.
easy enough to do with one hand behind my back, but i get cramp with it tied up there, so i took some pics with my free hand instead.
i used the TT kit, but most of it is no use at all. bracket would look awful if used, wires are too short & sleeving is WAY too short, and i wouldn't use those IDC things if you paid me. just buy a socket from somewhere cheaper & scrounge some wire & sleeving.
you can do this with the beak on the bike, but i reckon it's better to take it off. similarly, you can take the tank right off to run the wires, but i didn't.
panel bolts are all different lengths, so i've noted which are which
bodywork
first take the winglets off (20mm)
tank side covers off.
rear bolt (20mm)
front bolt, just behind forks (12mm)
pull the cover off. it's now held by this push fit thing into grommet shown on frame. use silicone grease on reassembly so it doesn't pull the grommet out next time
beak to tank top cover screw (16mm)
beak to frame screw (16)
beak extender screw (25mm). this also fixes to the frame & holds temperature sender if OBC is fitted to your bike.
just pull up the inner trim panels
beak should now pull forward off the pins shown centre pic.
this is the temperature sender
inside of beak is marked where socket should go. feck knows why they did it with an oval though
marked with felt pen so i don't drill the wrong side
socket diameter
hand mark hole centre with punch & pilot drill hole.
stick some masking tape over the top side of the beak & drill it out bigger.
you could use a cone cut now to enlarge the hole, but i used a round file, it's safer.
good job, shit photo.
wiring.
i used a piece of twin & earth house flex as a mouse to draw wiring through gap between tank & LHS of the frame.
in here.
emerges here. small side panel needs to be removed (just pull it off).
wires zip tied to frame as shown.
bung on a couple of crimps for the socket (red to centre).
wires can be piggy backed onto the standard aux. socket if desired. i put them across the battery via a fuse. this bypasses the limit of 7amps dictated by the canbus + it allows a non bmw 1200 charger to be connected. other fuse visible is earlier fitment for my gps. i could have taken that from the back of the new socket, but it would have needed a lower fuse rating & i just didn't want to put a second one in line.
finished wiring at battery end. 10amp fuse.
sling it all back together, and this is the finished job
i've got a handy place to plug my bmw waistcoat in now. until the cable breaks anyway
if i've missed something, or you know any improvements, feel free to point it out.