Fitting another auxiliary socket to a 1200GSA

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the auxilliary socket on my GSA is in a really awkward place so i decided to fit another one on the beak a la the GSAs of old.
easy enough to do with one hand behind my back, but i get cramp with it tied up there, so i took some pics with my free hand instead.

i used the TT kit, but most of it is no use at all. bracket would look awful if used, wires are too short & sleeving is WAY too short, and i wouldn't use those IDC things if you paid me. just buy a socket from somewhere cheaper & scrounge some wire & sleeving.

you can do this with the beak on the bike, but i reckon it's better to take it off. similarly, you can take the tank right off to run the wires, but i didn't.

panel bolts are all different lengths, so i've noted which are which :)

bodywork

first take the winglets off (20mm)

tank side covers off.

rear bolt (20mm)
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front bolt, just behind forks (12mm)
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pull the cover off. it's now held by this push fit thing into grommet shown on frame. use silicone grease on reassembly so it doesn't pull the grommet out next time ;)
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beak to tank top cover screw (16mm)
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beak to frame screw (16)
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beak extender screw (25mm). this also fixes to the frame & holds temperature sender if OBC is fitted to your bike.
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just pull up the inner trim panels
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beak should now pull forward off the pins shown centre pic.
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this is the temperature sender
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inside of beak is marked where socket should go. feck knows why they did it with an oval though :confused:
marked with felt pen so i don't drill the wrong side :mmmm
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socket diameter
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hand mark hole centre with punch & pilot drill hole.
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stick some masking tape over the top side of the beak & drill it out bigger.
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you could use a cone cut now to enlarge the hole, but i used a round file, it's safer.
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good job, shit photo.
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wiring.

i used a piece of twin & earth house flex as a mouse to draw wiring through gap between tank & LHS of the frame.
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in here.
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emerges here. small side panel needs to be removed (just pull it off).
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wires zip tied to frame as shown.
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bung on a couple of crimps for the socket (red to centre).
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wires can be piggy backed onto the standard aux. socket if desired. i put them across the battery via a fuse. this bypasses the limit of 7amps dictated by the canbus + it allows a non bmw 1200 charger to be connected. other fuse visible is earlier fitment for my gps. i could have taken that from the back of the new socket, but it would have needed a lower fuse rating & i just didn't want to put a second one in line.
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finished wiring at battery end. 10amp fuse.
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sling it all back together, and this is the finished job :)
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i've got a handy place to plug my bmw waistcoat in now. until the cable breaks anyway :p

if i've missed something, or you know any improvements, feel free to point it out.
 
cold? tsch! stuff & nonsense!

can't be cold. i didn't have to put the space heater on today. quilted overalls only :)
 
Excellent write up...destined for the FOAW when it's run its course here :thumb

I got one of these a few weeks ago to fit in the landy dash....I haven't got round to it yet but it could be an alternative for a GS...they do them with rubber covers as well.(and the Din plugs to complete the set ;) )


You'd have to raise the fuse rating and wiring diameter maybe but for those with lots of gadgets, could be useful :thumb

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you'd have to find somewhere to put it. it wouldn't fit in the winglet cut out.

i nearly put another socket in the other side just in case, but thought it might be overkill :nenau
 
you'd have to find somewhere to put it. it wouldn't fit in the winglet cut out.

That's what you have a Dremel for isn't it?? :)

I take your point though....this 3 socket panel would probably have to go elsewhere on a GS......I thought about putting one on the starter motor cover (there is enough room behind I think, just)

Or (and even better) in one of those Wudo cockpit panel thingies :thumb

That would be neat :thumb
 
That's what you have a Dremel for isn't it?? :)

I take your point though....this 3 socket panel would probably have to go elsewhere on a GS......I thought about putting one on the starter motor cover (there is enough room behind I think, just)

Or (and even better) in one of those Wudo cockpit panel thingies :thumb

That would be neat :thumb

one of the winglet mounting holes was cracked already when i removed it, might not be a good idea to weaken it any more. i reckon they need bracing to the screen, but then you couldn't adjust the tilt :mmmm

3 socket panel might fit inside the beak, in front of the tank at the side. plenty of metalwork to bolt it to there.
 
quilted overalls?

cold? tsch! stuff & nonsense!

........................ quilted overalls only :)

ooooooooooooooooooooooohhhhhhhhh that sounds sooooooo :ymca
:p :D
 
canbus power socket question

question, I have a bmw heated jacket, I get about 15 minutes on the bike an then it goes , an cant get it workin again, is this the canbus triping, if so how do I reset it, or how do I fix the problem, has anyone else had same problem, thanks in advance
 
I think heated kit takes more juice than can be provided through the canbus socket. Fit another socket direct to the battery....through a fuse....and it'll be fine. Its easy. Search on here.
 
It's worth fitting a Fuzeblock under the seat then routing all your auxiliary kit via that.
 
I kinda gathered that, now to find how to fit another socket, cheers

I seem to remember doing a how to on just that, a couple of years back.

Doing a search for it on the ipad is a bit of a PITA or I'd find it. For you :)
 
I seem to remember doing a how to on just that, a couple of years back.

Doing a search for it on the ipad is a bit of a PITA or I'd find it. For you :)

Found it!

It's at the top of this thread :blast
 
Seen a video on youtube doing the auxillary sockeg on a gsa have a look on theree

Sent from my SM-G357FZ using Tapatalk
 


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