fuel pump help

spen

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Ok , I stopped on my 2000 model 1150GS at a friends house and when i went to ride off the bike wouldn"t start ,It was turning over ok but no go .I noticed the fuel pump wasn"t priming when i turned the ignition on,checked the fuse it was fine and swapped the relay with the horn one and still no go .Took the tank off and put a 12v battery directly to the pump and it worked:nenau so the next thing i did was unscrew the fuse box and lift it up to get at the wires underneath the pump relay using a meter i found that the green and white wire which i think is the power wire must have had a break in it because when i tested the wire at the fuse box and the other end at the tank block connector i couldn"t get a resistance reading ( hope this makes sense so far) so what i did was rather than pull the loom apart i piggy backed a wire from the green and white under the fuse box and put it up into the tank block connector so now turn on the ignition pump primes and cuts off then hit the button bike runs fine .Why are you telling us all this i hear you ask .I just want to know if anyone has an opinion on what i have done like i said i have just brought a power wire up from the relay to the tank connector the same as was there only my wire doesn"t have a break in it !! i can"t tell from the manual if this wire just runs from the relay straight up through the loom or goes through any thing else ?? i hope you can understand this it"s hard to explain
 
The green/white wire also supplies power to:

The fuel injectors
The lambda sensor and,
The tank breather valve (whatever that is cos I haven'e seen it on my bike).

The bike's running fine then?
 
Check the block connector rear tank RHS - the one you unplug to take the tank off.
Quite often the female receiving terminals splay if you wriggle and disconnect the plug roughly, meaning the male pins don't make contact. Or these wires can break at that junction.


That would be my first check as its the cheapest.
 
Just had a butchers at the wiring diagram for mine 2001, the green/white wire from the pump relay then goes to the oxygen sensor, and from the sensor to the motronic unit in green/brown wire.
Described as round pin plug connector, but also the green/white wire has a DOT on it which is described as solder tag or connector,

No idea why the green/white wire goes through the oxygen sensor, but worth looking at that oxygen sensor connector, probably a 4 pin looking at diagram.
 
the bike is running fine ,i was just wondering which route that green and white wire took from the back of the relay ?? ( can any one tell me if it branches off somewhere to feed other things maybe thats where the poor connection is) there is a break in it somewhere as i have taken a separate wire from the relay up into the tank block connector and the bike runs fine
 
Just had a butchers at the wiring diagram for mine 2001, the green/white wire from the pump relay then goes to the oxygen sensor, and from the sensor to the motronic unit in green/brown wire.
Described as round pin plug connector, but also the green/white wire has a DOT on it which is described as solder tag or connector,

No idea why the green/white wire goes through the oxygen sensor, but worth looking at that oxygen sensor connector, probably a 4 pin looking at diagram.
Where abouts is that ???? :blast
 
Not a clue without ripping mine to bits :Motomartin

But that green/white wire defo branches off to about 4 items, where this occurs, who knows
 
Where abouts is that ???? :blast

I think you need to loom in the loom on the LHS of the rear subframe: Somewhere around your thigh when you are sat on the bike.

It sounds like the wire which goes to your four pin connector of the fuel tank has broken.

You don't need to touch the fuel injectors or lambda sensor wiring.
 
It sounds like the wire which goes to your four pin connector of the fuel tank has broken.

Yep i think so ,like i said i ran a wire from the relay up and into the block connector and the pump primmed and cut out and the bike started fine
 
Yep i think so ,like i said i ran a wire from the relay up and into the block connector and the pump primmed and cut out and the bike started fine

So you need to find the green/white wire solder junction with the loom. I think it's on the LHS subframe.
 
So you need to find the green/white wire solder junction with the loom. I think it's on the LHS subframe.

do you think it would be ok to run as i have it with an inline fuse added in my piggyback wire ??
 
I think it's on the LHS subframe.

Nope all these sort of multi joints are up by the left side above the telelever around in front of the ABS unit and below the Motronic

Green and white goes to the lamda sensor to provide power to measure resistances for the ecu

Goes to injectors as much less load tripping on earth side of anything than on the load side
 
Thanks Jay .I will take your wise words and fit an inline fuse and ride away at it
 
If you've come off the relay output you don't need a fuse because it's already there in the form of F6.

Being honest with you For the sake of a 50p fuse holder I'd rather be safe than sorry :aidan

I had the misfortune to have to replace a loom after some muppet changed a switch and made the wrong connections

Melted wires right down into that big lump at the telelever NEVER again will I do that Job talk about time consuming and PITA :eek
 
Check under the battery cage on the left side. The main loom passes under the cage there and can be subject to chafing, as the cage is rubber mounted. This caused a dead short and blown fuse on the Green/White Fuel Pump circuit on my (old) bike last year.

Once I tracked the problem down and repaired it, I put a piece of flexible plastic chopping board between the cage and the loom to stop it happening again.

i-x3R8qVK-L.jpg


I have used another piece of the same chopping board on my new bike - it's the bright green thing in this pic (taken from the other side)... :D
 
Any other opinion is welcome :blagblah

You're going in the wrong direction trying to find the fault.
You're swimming from a long way upstream with lots of diversions along the way to the fault.

Start at the fault and work back downstream. :D
 


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