Converting a rear wheel to accept a car tyre.....

The other way to do this would be a custom spacer/adaptor to covert the PCD to a 5 stud car wheel and get the correct offset you'd be looking at a 15" or 16" car wheel most likely to fit over the rear disc and caliper. You'd then have to weigh up whether the cantilever on the final drive is an issue.

This approach has been done many times on sidecar rigs. I think tripteq did an adapter for an 1150 to a smart car 3 stud 15" wheel.
 
Assuming the tyre is in the same place, the cantilever is cancelled out by the wheel offset.
 
The other way to do this would be a custom spacer/adaptor to covert the PCD to a 5 stud car wheel and get the correct offset you'd be looking at a 15" or 16" car wheel most likely to fit over the rear disc and caliper. You'd then have to weigh up whether the cantilever on the final drive is an issue.

This approach has been done many times on sidecar rigs. I think tripteq did an adapter for an 1150 to a smart car 3 stud 15" wheel.

Tripteq still do as I have one on my 1200GSA with Tripteq sidecar fitted.


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Tripteq still do as I have one on my 1200GSA with Tripteq sidecar fitted.


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I forgot they did all that stuff and decided to make my life harder by going 15" Suzuki Jimmy/Vitara steel wheels, already had the wheels, the hubs arrived earlier today and 5 stud spacers are on the way all before I saw this post so I'm probably too far down the line now to change now.
 
Assuming the tyre is in the same place, the cantilever is cancelled out by the wheel offset.
I'm not convinced. Car wheels tend to have the fixing point closer to the outside edge than bike wheels i.e. bikes have negative offset Vs cars positive (I think that's correct) so the spacer you'd need would cantilever at least it would in my head when acting on the outside tyre wall especially.

I could just be fussing over a non issue of course.
 
I'm not convinced. Car wheels tend to have the fixing point closer to the outside edge than bike wheels i.e. bikes have negative offset Vs cars positive (I think that's correct) so the spacer you'd need would cantilever at least it would in my head when acting on the outside tyre wall especially.

I could just be fussing over a non issue of course.
If using a std wheel the offset would not change - Car wheels all vary the offset based on the suspension design - On a car the idea is to maintain the steering axis in the center of the tyre's contact patch - or you get very undesirable bump steer. Bump steer is where an uneven road hitting the tyre can incur a dangerous uncommanded steering effect. But that's really only on a steered wheel. Unless so much compliance in rubber bushing etc. allows bump steer to deflect a fixed wheel and tyre (which might affect a side car wheel)


 
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If you read up on car vs bike rims it shows that the width of the area between the inside edge of the wheel and the bump on the other side of the bead seat is 21mm on car rims and 16 mm on a bike rim .

So the sealing area on the rim is wider for a car rim and a car tyre , it means that if ypu put a car tyre on a bike specific the sealing bead on the tyre is wider than the bead seating area and the tyre will be improperly seated and sealed.

Apparently a bike tyre on a car rim will safely seal
 
hey, you can check the site of JP-wheels.com.

I think your biggest problem is the wide of the rim.
As you can see on the jp site. you can choose everything, from ET to PCD.
only prob is that they make the rims in size 7 wide.
I think you need a rim with ET 41 and PCD 5X120,

this guy did something similar.

 
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Bit of a thread-stopper but thanks for posting Neil....... Much better than the negative ramblings of the santimonious gits who warned "don't do it" even though they had no personal experience of riding a bike fitted with a car tyre ! ........ I suppose that they meant well !
You didn't read Post 4 in this thread then ...
 
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