Just serviced, won't start!

Boxergs

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Just been to collect my 2000 1150 gs after leaving it for a service with my local service bloke who knows the bike. He doesn't specialize in BM's but has done a few including mine. He's very thorough and does a good job. Anyway, it took a few turns to fire up and was running rough so I asked him if he'd had the tank off, No he hadn't. Checked the throttle cable seating on both sides, all ok. After a minute or so it seemed to run ok. so turned off and started again, all seemed ok.

Set off for home and got less than 400 yds when the bike just died. It will turn over but not fire up. I gave him a ring and he set off towards me in his van. I turned the bike around and pushed it back towards his place but stopped and gave it another try (like you do) and it started and seemed to run normally. I switched it off and waited for him to arrive and when he did it again refused to start. There's no spark on either side.

The work he did was, oil/filter change. New plugs, replace fork seals, new speedo cable fitted. Gear lever linkage stripped & cleaned and final drive and gearbox oil change.

He had the bike a week as I was away so I just left it with him to do the work. He reckons it has been running ok and I've no reason to doubt him.

One thing of note (maybe) is that when I turned the bike around after it died, it was on full lock. Just wondering if there's any connection with the problem some have had with the loom cabled tied to the frame and chafing? Bike's done 100,000m and the plastic/rubber sheathing on some of the wiring is brittle. The cable ties were still in place and didn't seem that tight:nenau

Any advice or idea's please. If the loom has chafed through then could it cause the 'no spark' problem? All the other electrics are working fine.

Oh, one other thing is that the steering lock has become just a little stiff recently. He also commented and asked if it was always like that. It has been wd40'd but is still a little stiff......any connection?

He's gonna get the tank up tomorrow to see if that shed's any light on the problem. Hopefully it will but if anyone on here can help then that would be great.:beerjug:
 
I expect the real experts will be here soon, but makes me think hall effect sensor.
 
Check the wiring from the ignition switch into the loom.
Steptoe mentions cutting off lots of the cable ties, as the cause where tension in the loom on full lock can break wires.

Also the other one is the loom which runs down RHS of headstock, where water gets in and rots the connections.


HTH
Neil
 
No luck so far

Well the mechanic has had no joy so far. Can anyone tell me.....the Hall sensor was replaced about 2 yrs ago....the 2 wires that lead from the sensor on the front around the offside of the bike and then under the tank?....if one of those is damaged, would that stop the spark? I know these are liable to heat damage and I wonder if he's had the bike idling for longer than he's letting on and caused one of these wire to become brittle and broken.

As mentioned before, all the other electrics seem ok and the fuel pump primes when ignition is switched on. One other thing of note is that if the connector in front of the battery (the one BM connect to their diagnostic machine) is removed from it's clip it occasionally makes the pump prime continuously. This happened yesterday when initially trying to fault find but hasn't happened since.

Thanks again for any suggestions.
 
when my ignition wiring loom connector "broke" it would kill the ignition, no lights or anything.
 
Well it's looking more and more like feckin' hall sensor again. He's managed to start bike a few times by holding down the starter as he turns the ignition on. It'll run for 20 seconds or so then die again. I thought I had an old 'un in the garage but can't find it. Is there a way of testing 'em? I know if you turn the back wheel with it in gear it should prime the fuel pump but that seems to be working ok anyway and primes when switched on.

Thanks
 
Hi Steptoe, yes I am I suppose....as I mentioned earlier, he is very methodical but can talk the hind leg off a donkey so when I ring him it would be handy to give him a few pointers to try rather than listen to him going on & on & on etc. I do realize any mechanic worth his salt should be able to figure these things out but if I/you can point him in the right direction it might help him and save me mounting labour charges. The Hall sensor was replaced about 2 yrs ago but the symptoms seem be be pointing back to it again.

Thanks
 
I've got a spare Halls (that I'm 100% sure works cos its been swapped recently looking for a fault) that you can borrow if you want. Can't you try Steptoe's trick of slowly turning the real wheel in gear to see if the injectors fire (indicating the hall sensor is OK and signalling the ECU - I think that's right? I'm hope I'll be corrected if not).

I had a problem recently with a broken connector to the coil that was working intermittently - injectors were firing, no spark (intermittently then permanently!)

I flippin HATE electrics. Good luck anyway
 
I've got a spare Halls (that I'm 100% sure works cos its been swapped recently looking for a fault) that you can borrow if you want. Can't you try Steptoe's trick of slowly turning the real wheel in gear to see if the injectors fire (indicating the hall sensor is OK and signalling the ECU - I think that's right? I'm hope I'll be corrected if not).

I had a problem recently with a broken connector to the coil that was working intermittently - injectors were firing, no spark (intermittently then permanently!)

I flippin HATE electrics. Good luck anyway

Just buy a NEW sensor and save any more messing about.
 
Just buy a NEW sensor and save any more messing about.

Would be great if I could afford to do that:(

Anyway, after speaking to the bloke again today he has noticed that if he wiggles the ignition switch there is a crackling/electrical sound but he is unsure where where it is coming from. He mentions 5 wires coming from the ignition switch going to a connector on the loom but only four wires come out of the other side of the connector. What color wires should there be and where do they go? Can anyone point me to an exploded view of the ignition switch and also how it's removed? I have noticed the ignition seems to have been a bit stiffer than usual recently even after wd40 being squirted in.

Thanks again
 


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