Suspension changed

[King Rat]

I have eventually taken the original shock off, there was about 1 inch of lift in the wheel on the stand as free play in the top bush! It got to the point that even I could feel it rattling on the road and I know nothing about suspension or what the various technical terms actually mean. I have replaced with a virtually new original, donated by Micky in return for a handful of beer vouchers a few years ago. I have replaced it with Corrosion Block grease top and bottom, especially bottom, which actually came out very easily. I tried the bolts with a magnet and they are non-magnetic stainless steel and had no wear marks whatsever, not even on the top one, and when tried there is no play, so all good in that respect.
Now, my question is how do I set the suspension up, because it rides completely differently and is properly horrid on the concrete road that on the way there was quite comfortable even on the worn shock bush. Please note, I do not know what 'preload' actually is - I know there is a black finger nut to turn at the bottom and the remote knob to turn at the top, but I don't know what either of them do because I have never altered suspension on a bike in my life (50 odd years of riding a motorbike!) I just get on and ride the things and they have generally been done by the owner so in the OK range.
Any help in understanding how to diagnose what is going on would be great too.

 

[BBB888]

My standard suspension I just set damping as per the handbook - cant remember exactly but think it was c.13 turns out on rebound and 10 on compression. I can copy and send the extract from the handbook if that would help. The wheels click as you adjust so quite easy to screw all the way in and then back out the recommended clicks.
I was sent the following as a lesson on preload - relates to front forks but applies same to rear which is adjusted by eh ring on the shock body (2 rings the upper being a lock ring):

"You can compensate for a too-soft or too-stiff spring by using preload, but you’re better off changing the spring itself.

The more preload, the harder the suspension is.



The lower the preload, the softer the suspension is.



By adding preload on the front, for example, in the braking zone there is going to be less of a diving effect as the weight moves forward because it takes more of yours the bike’s weight to overcome the force of the spring pushing back up.

So if I wanted to reduce travel on my front forks I would add preload, and if you wanted to increase travel on yours you would reduce preload. If you haven’t got preload available to reduce then you need a softer front spring.

First check is to measure sag………. I think you need Min 10mm static in front and c.35mm with rider on board. Have to check that forks are fully unloaded and extended then stand on level ground on its own weight but no other load. Then measure again with rider on board.

I found measurement was best done after a ride with oil warm as the sag was greater warm than when cold. Once you’ve done that you can get fiddling with damping. Hours of fun. Best done before drinking any beer."

 

[King Rat]

Thank you John Nicholson. The Rider's manual has everything you need. This is perfect for me, fit and forget. Instead of digging out my little book I found it reproduced on the internet, very useful resource www.manualslib.com



This basic starting point will do me just fine. I am about 85kgs maybe 90kgs with riding gear. If I find it a bit wallowy I shall give it another turn.



Reading the manual, if you increase/decrease the big knob setting, you have to match it with the small nut setting at the bottom. Again, the standard starting point will do me just fine. If I turn the big knob one turn to hard, I have to turn the bottom nut one CLICK in direction A (back edge away from me).