The Road Goes on Forever - A tale of 3 countries, 2 continents,4600 miles in 9 days

Steptoe

What a waste.
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The Road Goes On Forever .


Saturday 31st March. 6am. Beep beep beep beep beep, thump - Silence.

5 more minutes, then I’ll be fine to get up.
Today’s the start of “The Moroccan Dash II “
I have no idea how many are going, all I know for certain is that three riders are meeting us at the port in Algerciras, Spain, on Monday morning at 9ish am. I love a plan.

I did all the main packing on the bike yesterday, so I’ll be ready to roll as soon as I don the Aerostich, and lid, and gloves, and just make sure I’ve earplugs, sunglasses, lipbalm, tictacs, buff, spare gloves, cash, cards, maps, rough guide, phone, phonecharger, I-pod, I-pod charger, quicky camera, good camera, memory cards, camera batteries, battery charger, torch. I’m now sweating like a pig. Have I mentioned I packed yesterday ?

Sitting on the bike ready to roll, GPS on, engine running, ear monitors in, everything packed. Lets thumb the I-pod, and see what it throws at me as a soundtrack for the beginning of the trip. = Iggy Pop – I am a Passenger.

I wasn’t going to bore you with riding the M25 section. But I will. There was an erratically driven estate car in the outside lane, with nothing in front of it, which was holding me up. I normally would have just gone past it on the inside, but I had thoughts of teenagers on their way back home to the Eastuary towns in a stolen car after a night out in a south London crack den. The passenger in the rear waving/gesticulating at me through the window just confirmed the thought.
It slowly moved over which allowed me to shoot safely past it on the drivers side. I glanced a quick look at the driver, who had a stupid look on his face, mouthing something at me. Then I looked again. It was “Percy”, AKA pint6x, AKA Phil. That explained everything.

Well, arrival at the channel terminal. Moment of truth. Am I riding through France and Spain on my lonesome. No, there are six other GSER’s, with more to meet on the other side, who’d crossed earlier.





We rode the train, and arrived in France. The others were waiting at the petrol station. Another four people. Making ten in all for the ride through France and Spain.

A fairly uneventful ride through France, except for Donnys enthusiasm for turning off the autoroutes for petrol ! Good weather all the way.

Arrived in Bordeaux 8.30pm, after a halfhour crawl through the traffic in the town. Booked into an Ibis. Dinner was served at 9.30pm.
I-pod had played 134 songs, finishing on - A Whiter Shade of Pale .

Total Mileage for the day, from my door to hotel 620 miles.

Day 2.

Thumb the I-pod into life. Start the day with Robert plant - “All the Kings horses”,
On the road at 6.30, head out of town, on the long flat road through the Gironde. The road with the speed cameras in the center reservation facing you at head height. The flash as you pass wakes you up. After a quick 60 miles, stop at a service station for breakfast. And fuel for Donny.

Not long after and we’re crossing the border into Spain.

Then it started to rain. Heavily.
The group spread out, due to traffic and the weather. The rain stopped after halfhour.
We stopped for lunch at a restaurant alongside a service station, and found we’d lost two, Darkhorse Dave, and John ( dryskier). Never mind, they’re bound to be looking as they pass garages. Aren’t they ? .
No txts received, so no one has broken down or had any problems.
We carry on after lunch. Arriving at the next toll booth, we find one of the lost, John, who said Dave had stopped as the rain was at it’s heaviest ( we found out this was due to the heavy rain/waterlogged slippery road surface and Daves TKC’s). John had stopped, but said Dave never passed him ?.
Dave had passed him, while John was stood at the side of the road, but never mind !. We carried on.

I’d received a TX from Whatton, who was some miles ahead of us saying Darkhorse had just passed them. So I tx’d Dave saying he was ahead of us, in case he thought he was behind us, and really pushing trying to catch up.

Going through Madrid, I took the wrong turn off, I realized what I’d done as I did it. Tim followed me, the others went on.
As it turned out, we had a 5 minute detour before getting back on track futher along the road, And the others told us later they had a 30 minute traffic jam in a tunnel. Oh how we laughed. So we were now in two separate groups. I did miss stopping for fuel for Donny.

Passed the 4x4 “Sand up your bum tour”, stopped and had a quick chat, and tx’d darkhorse Dave and met him 15 miles further on.


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The weather warmed up as we headed south. Tim, Dave and myself arrived at the hotel in Algerciras at 8pm.
Name the I-pod tune playing - Buster Brown = Fanny Mae .

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Tx’d the others the waypoint (although Wapping knew we were heading for this hotel), as I tx’d them, they sailed straight past.
Then the 4x4 crew turned up, none of this meeting up was planned, it just happened.
The rest of the bikes finally arrived 20 minutes later.






One was missing. John ( dryskier) had got lost in Madrid. He’d sent me a tx, “still lost after 3 hours” and decided to stay there.

The hotel restaurant was closed, so a few of us went off into town at 10pm to find a restaurant - And a very fine eatery we ended up finding. Leaving at 1am, 55 euros each lighter, and a very stressed annoyed lobster in a tank ( you had to be there), and a lesson learned “don’t leave the ordering to Wapping”.

Total Mileage for the day 843 miles.




Day 3.
The hotel is only a 10minute ride away from the ferry terminal.

We meet Skippy, Orbit and Fridgestar at the ferry terminal 9am.
That makes a total of 12 GSER’s, heading for Morocco on the 10am ferry crossing .



It’s good when it all goes to plan, well it would be if I’d had one.

It was the usual Moroccan self made chaos at the border. We chuck the “helpers” some money as we can’t be arsed fecking about with 12 people and bikes. And Moroccos unequal wage structure has been in place long before giving a helper a bung. Actually, I was invited into a customs office, and gave the two officers a “drink”. That was a first.

Then we’re in .
Another continent. The land with Cerulean skies and no pubs .





Ready to go, thumbed the I-pod - Groove Armada = Hands of Time .
We’re heading to Fez. Via Zoumi ( town of shite).

Reach the turn off for Zoumi, and it’s raining heavily. Conveniently, there happens to be a tea shop at the junction, so we stop, and some have their first taste of Moroccan mint tea. We also have a Tea/coffee whip, which tour dad, Richard ( wapping) was volunteered to be in charge of.


A decision is made, those that don’t want to go along the zoumi road, can take the normal road, those that like the thought of riding through mud and shite can take the road via Zoumi.
I’m taking the normal road. You must understand, it’s not that I didn’t want to ride in the mud and shite , I’ve ridden it before. But to escort the few riders who didn’t want the unique experience of the road to Zoumi, and to show them the coffee shop where we are going to wait for the others to catch up..
Just after leaving the others and watching them set off on the track, we stopped for fuel, I’m not sure why, as Donny wasn’t with us .
While under cover at the garage, it hailed very heavily. At that moment how I wished to be on the shitty, wet, muddy zoumi road. Not.

We were planning to meet with the others at the tea shop, at a point not long after they’d be back on the main road. We waited nearly two hours, then decided to set off to fez, book a hotel and tx them the GPS co-ords.





Tried the Fez Inn, a good place to stop, with an “interesting” bar cliental . But it was full.

So off to the fez Ibis. I’m not keen on staying in Ibis hotels. But it seemed the easiest decision.
On entering and asking if there were any rooms available ( 6 doubles), the receptionist said “sorry, no chance, absolutely full up”.
So we were about to leave when he said “ I may have a couple of family rooms, and find some put-you-up beds”
So we said that’ll do. And tx’d the co-ords to the others.
Then the receptionist said ” actually, I may have 6 double rooms available”.
So it went from being “absolutely no chance, full up”, to exactly what we wanted, in the space of two minutes !!!!!!

The others arrived within the next 30mintues . All present and correct and squeezed into the hotel security compound.


I-pod finished on “Elenore” - by The Turtles.

Showered, to the bar, few beers, evening meal, back to the bar, few more beers, then bed.

Total mileage for the day 204. (Algerciras = Fez)


Day 4.
A relaxed day, breakfast at 8.30am.
On the road at 9.30, Wapping had forgotten something at the hotel, so he went back, and we went on. I-pod was thumbed. Abba = Waterloo. Oh dear.

We stopped at Ifrane, a swiss type village in the middle of Morocco, for a mid-morning coffee.

And for Richard to catch up. This was vital, as our tour Dad had all the whip money to pay for the coffee and cakes.


 
We’re heading for marrakesh, via the “Cascades d’Ouzoud”.
The roads are pretty good after a few miles, one particular section has some very enjoyable riding.
We stop by the spectacular lake near Kasba Tadla, played the japanese tourists by taking pictures of everything that moves, smiles or tries to sell us anything, then move on. Learning nothing about the lake or the area. We’re on the bypass, the culture bypass.







We stop for some petrol, but there’s no Donny and a few others are not with us. We wait a bit, and guess that they’ve stopped for fuel as well. So we carry on.

Three of us are waiting at the turn off for the cascades. We wait a while, and along comes Chris. He tells us that Martin has had a collision with a taxi, and there has been some minor damage to panniers and indicators. And that they’ll be along soon, but won’t going to the cascades, just straight to marrakesh.
So we wait.
And wait.
And wait a bit more. Just in case.
I make a decision and send Tim and the other Chris on to the hotel in marrakesh, while Chris and myself wait in a roadside café for the others to come along. They must be on this road, it’s the only road to marrakesh if they aren’t going to the cascades. And even if they are going to the cascades, we’re waiting at the turn-off. So they must come past whatever.
Whatever, we’ve waited for one and half hours. The sun is getting low on the horizon, and we’ve got to go onto marrakesh. I’ve sent tx’s, but have received none.
So we head onto marrakesh. With the sun directly in our faces, on the horizon all the way.
We arrive at the hotel, there’s four of us in total . the others know which hotel we’re going to. So we just sit and wait. The tx messages are starting to come in, and they’re all nearly here.
They had gone to the cascades, but had followed the first sign they’d seen, as opposed to carrying on until they saw me waiting at the turn off. The short route turn-off. They’d taken the long long turn-off. Never mind, I didn’t mind sitting waiting for over two hours.
It pissed me off more that i can’t remember what song the I-pod finished on.

Off to the square in marrakesh for supper.

Todays mileage 302.


Day 5

On the road at 9am. Thumb the I-pod,and we have the background music of 5th Dimension – Wedding bell blues.
Heading to the Dades Gorge, via Ait-benhaddou. Everyone knows where we’re going, so it’s not necessary to all stop at the same time, or try and keep up.

Spectacular scenery on the road from Marrakesh all the way to the Tizzi & Tichka pass, so lots of stopping for pictures.











A large group of germans turn up showing how to do tours. The Big Cheese Tour Company


We stop for tea/coffee at the summit of the Tizzi and titchka pass. Well all but Steve, who stopped, looked and drove off ??. That was the last we saw of him. I did get some txts, but not until the next day.



Stopped at Benhaddou, the location of lots of films, gladiators etc etc etc etc etc.
I’ll just describe it as an old dusty medieval town, but with souvenirs at Bond street prices. Best seen from about half a mile away. You get my drift.





Through Ouarzazate, on towards the Dades gorge.
My god the wind was strong, blowing from the mountains on our left, across to the plains on our right. Lots of sand blowing up, and onto the road. Which made for some entertaining moments. We rode for an hour or so banked over into the wind.
Arrived at the turn off for the gorge about 2.30pm. Waited for everyone to get there, then up the gorge to a hotel first, then a more relaxing ride around the gorge.












Restaurant where we stopped for a late lunch on our drive around Dades Gorge


 
I'm really enjoying this report Steptoe. Hopefully there is more to come.

Cheers
 
great stuff.

i await donny's next petrol stop & ipod reports with baited breath :)
 
Good write up, photo's and insight into anothers i-pod.
Have to confess those kinda daily mileages aren't for me.
 
Great read and some great photos - Cheers thanks for sharing
 
Great report Neil, but I feel it will take longer to write & post than the whole trip took:D

Whats next on the i-pod?
 
Day 5

On the road at 9am. Thumb the I-pod,and we have the background music of 5th Dimension – Wedding bell blues.
Heading to the Dades Gorge, via Ait-benhaddou. Everyone knows where we’re going, so it’s not necessary to all stop at the same time, or try and keep up.

Spectacular scenery on the road from Marrakesh all the way to the Tizzi & Tichka pass, so lots of stopping for pictures



A large group of germans turn up showing how to do tours. The Big Cheese Tour Company


We stop for tea/coffee at the summit of the Tizzi and titchka pass. Well all but Steve, who stopped, looked and drove off ??. That was the last we saw of him. I did get some txts, but not until the next day.

Nothing personal Neil I did stop but what with my eyesite being so bad with all that Tossing :eek: I couldnt make the group out amongst all the Germans.

I did enjoy my time with the dash but when I didnt see you I decided to go my own way whch In the spirit of the no plans no pressure nature of the dash I thought wouldnt cause offence if I just rode on.:thumb

I did text you within a couple of hours but you where having fun with your moby so didnt recieve it till the next day.:blast

I would like to thank you for a great introduction to The African continent and wish you and all the other dashers well maybe we can all meet up at the Hograost and squeeze the last of the whip out of Richard. :beerjug:
 
Yet another Tosser waiting (not so) Patiently for the continuation of this trip report!

Al...
 
Still Day 5 - it was a long day.

As I’ve said, after getting booked into the hotel we went for a late afternoon ride up the Dades Gorge, stopping for a meal at the top of the twisty bends.

After eating, some returned to the hotel, and a few of us drove on into the Dades Gorge. Some spectacular views as the sun sunk low in the gorge. We drove into the gorge until sunset. As hard as we tried, we couldn’t find a fuel stop for Donny to visit










The ride back to the hotel was in the dark, added a bit of spice.

Did I mention the hotel only had two rooms available ?

Very large rooms. Because they added three beds in each room to accommodate as all with out any fuss, and we had our own dining room for the nights meal. A very good spread was laid on for us, plus the benefit of some beers from the 4x4 “sand up your bum” guys who were a mile away in another hotel.



It was blowing a gale outside, and a few brought their bikes into the hotel lobby. All at the hotel owners suggestion.



Now for some reason Skippy decided he wanted to in his tent outside the hotel ???. With no sleeping bag or mat. It provided us with an amusing evening.

And an amusing morning as we listened to him at 7.30am knocking on the door for 30 minutes asking to be let in.

Total Mileage for the day = 264

Day 6
A good start to the day, sun shining, breakfast on the veranda, good food and even better views, before leaving for the Todra Gorge, and the days destination of Meknes.

You know the score, Thumb and press = Volare , Dean Martin. Mmh, do I skip or just stick with it ?







On the way to the Todra Gorge, took the opportunity of getting the bike cleaned. A good way to spend 40p. That includes drying as well, plus it’s the only wash the bike gets all year.



Arrived at the Todra, always a spectacular sight, no matter how many times you’ve seen it. Rode along holding the camera taking pictures, just guessing at whats in shot. The sun was starting to warm up a bit.
And the coaches had started to arrive at the start of the Gorge.



Look on the bright side, one of the benefits of the storms last October was the road damage, which meant they couldn’t get along the gorge. So no fear of me driving into a coach as I concentrated on taking pictures













After a run up the Gorge, it was back on the road to Er Rachidia, where we stopped for lunch, and petrol for Donny.
The restaurant was part of a petrol station, but we all agreed it was the best meal we’d had in morocco. I’ve stopped at many restaurants in petrol stations and they’ve all been good, so don’t be put off by the usual British services food, the moroccon versions are worth stopping at.

Onwards to meknes. Dave and Chris were stopped for speeding.
The fine started off at 40 Euros, and after a bit of bartering ended up at 10 euros and a cup of mint tea with the coppers.

Wapping had gone ahead and booked us into the meknes Ibis. We all arrived ok ( ipod, God bless the child – Blood sweat and tears), dusted ourselves down , and met in the bar for a few beers before eating. The meal wasn’t a patch on the earlier food. And Donny said the petrol was also crap compared to lunch times petrol station.

Total mileage for the day – 347.
 
I'm glad to see I'm not the only one to take the leisurely approach to trip reports. :thumb
Mark
 
The Prologue.
I've been waiting for the nights to draw in before finishing the ride report. I didn't want to sit on a summers evening typing at all out.

It's been good going back through it while it's dark and damp outside.


Day 7.

Last day in Morocco. Up and breakfast, usual Ibis “I could be anywhere in the world” fare. There are times on a tour when tough choices have to be made, this is one of those times. Weetabix or Shreddies ?. Get it wrong and it’ll play on my mind for the rest of the day.

Today we’re making a break for the border. After Skippys previous nights sleep, OUTSIDE the hotel, he awoke refreshed, he slept like a log, and woke up in the fire place.

We all seem to have fallen into a routine of gathering belongings, tying to do a bunk from the hotels, not quiet having the nerve, and end up sheepishly paying twice the amount we thought in the first place. Maybe we don’t fancy the “legging it” scenerio , and at our age it could turn into an Ealing Comedy scene.
After the usual faffing loading the bikes, making sure Donny has fuel, and wapping makings his customary (and amusing to listen to) business calls ( buy/sell/offload/hold/), we’re finally ready to move.

Todays destination isAlgericas,Spain. On the way we’re stopping at Volubilis, to visit the roman ruins.

Earmoniters in, start up the sounds, this could make or break my day - Somebody help me : The Spencer Davies Group.

After a few laps of the Meknes ring road we finally get out. It’s drizzling, and the roads are slippery

After some entertaining moments on the road, we arrive. Volubilis.


We all park outside the entrance, pay our sheckles and enter.






No fences keeping you 100 yards away from the precious artifacts, or jobsworths watching your every move. Which allows you to stand on the roman mosaics in your finest H/G Tourag boots, and to pries out some of the more spectacular sections to take home as souvenirs.




.

The quality of the roman buildings has to be seen. The Mosaics still stuck solid today, a lesson for all those Polish builders.

And the roman electrical conduit is first class, looks as good today as when Julius first swithed it on.


It’s a large area, and we don’t have the time to fully indulge ourselves, plus the rain was getting heavier. So onward we rode.

The ride to the border was a loony tune ride. All done in the best possible style of an IAM ride….. Not.

We stopped for lunch before getting to the border. At a petrol station diner, Donny was in heaven, and the toilet for the rest of the trip.
Chris ordered, not sure what, but he made up for it in quantity. He’s now almost passed the “tour dad” test, and will be an asset to any future tours looking for a tour dad.

At the border, we got a “man that can”, there’s only one window for departing morocco,and the queue can be loooong. So the man takes all your passports in the tradesmens entrance. 5 minutes later your through, while the same person who was at the departure window when you arrived, is still there as you wave him goodbye.

We also noticed a bolt in my rear tyre. As it wasn’t losing pressure, I decided to ride to the hotel in Spain, and fix it there, rather than possibly being being stuck at the border.



Skippy had booked with a different ferry company to the rest of us. So we waved him goodbye as he stood on the dock and we headed back to Europe.

The hotel we stay at in Algerciras is only 15minutes from the ferry port, with covered parking, and a restaurnt and bar. All for 26 euros for a double room.
We had paella for 8 that evening, and a few beers.

Total mileage for the day 191.

Day 7
In the morning the group went their different ways, one group going straight back, the other going via the Millau Bridge .
I was going by myself, as the puncture was difficult to repair, and I didn’t want to hold the others up, and as I posted before the trip “ we’ll try to help, but if nothing can be done by us, and if you can’t take being stuck by the side of a Spanish motorway, by yourself waiting for a breakdown truck, then this type ride isn’t for you”. So now I can at least say “ I know what it’s like, I’ve done it” if we ever have leave someone ; ) .

This is the bolt in the tyre.



Fitted a plug and set off straight up through Spain to Bordeaux, going home the same way we came. I-pod was thumbed. My Old School – Steely Dan.


The plug spat out at Granada. So I used two plugs.

Arrived at Burgos , 8.30 pm after keeping my speed to 60-65 all the way. Just hit the sat-nav button for nearest hotel. These instruments are saviours when your tired and want someone else to do the thinking for you. Booked into a nice hotel, and had a few beers in the bar. Had some txts from the group heading for millau. They’d had a long day, arried after 960miles, wimps, they could’ve at least gone around the block a few times to cover the 1000 miles .

Days mileage 562.

Day 8.

Walked to the bike to load it up, and the tyre was still fully inflated, it was a good start to the day. No set destination. Just see where I am this evening.

Thank god for the I-pod, sitting on motorways at 60ish MPH is no fun. Daren’t go any faster in case the two plugs spit out, and it’s easter Sunday, no time to be stuck in the middle of France.

After listening to 300+ songs, I arrived in Rouen. Sat-nav found me another good hotel. They put my bike in the kitchen overnight.

.

Had a quiet night in a bar in town – I could be turning alcoholic.

Days Mileage 703.

Day 9 .

Moved the bike out of the kitchen, so they could cook breakfast. Tyre still inflated.

Only 132 miles to the tunnel. I feel I could push it the last part after all themiles we’ve covered the last week.
My over worked thumb pressed the I-pods tit for the last time. - Roll away the stone = Mott the hoople.

Uneventful ride to the tunnel. Then to Home.

Days mileage 212.

I’d like to thank everyone who came along for the ride, for the memories, laughs, and the experience. Here’s to the next one .

The tyre stayed inflated for another 1000 miles. It decided to leak again on the Lands End John O Groats ride,with Shep, Whatton, james Burton. It went flat at Honiton on the way to Lands End. But that’s another [URL="http://www.ukgser.com/forums/showthread.php?t=111050&highlight=whatton"]STORY[/URL]
 


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