Switched power - The easy way

Wapping

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Oct 21, 2005
Messages
78,760
Reaction score
3,522
Location
Wapping, London
Lots of people ask for any easy way to get switched power on a 1200GS, for powering an Autocom, Centec fuse box or anything similar. Following assorted threads on the internet I tripped over this little beauty:

splitter.jpg


It is a BuMW splitter. It clips, very simply, behind the standard auxillary power socket (nearside, beneath the seat) on a 1200 GS. I helped ChasMill of this parish install one yesterday.

METHOD

(1) Unclip the power lead plug from the rear of the auxiliary plug. The catch is disengaged by pressing the sides of the plug.

(2) Clip the splitter into the rear of the auxiliary socket.

(3) Clip the power lead into one of the two sockets of the splitter.

BINGO! Power is flowing back into the auxiliary socket, via the splitter. You have now have one spare power outlet available and you know how it slots together.

NOW THE DIY BIT.

(a) Unclip the splitter.

(b) Like the splitter in the picture, ChasMill's splitter came with the leads bound together with tape. Free them. Also remove BuMW's labels, they only get in the way.

(b) Neatly cut off one of the spare sockets, right against the plug, leaving yourself plenty of wire. You can undo the plug itself by simply levering the retaining lugs away with a fine blade screwdriver, if you want to.

(c) Strip back about 3/4 of an inch of the plastic sheath, exposing the bare wires.

(d) The red and white wire is positive (+). The brown wire is negative (-).

(e) Solder suitable lengths of wire to extend the leads. Shrink wrap for good measure.

(f) Here is an excellent guide how to solder wires neatly:

Soldering

And an excellent guide on joining wires and heatshrinking:

Join and heatshrink

(g) Connect the extended power lead to whatever device you wish to power. In ChasMill's case it was a Centec fuse box.

(h) Reinstall the splitter (see 1, 2 and 3 above).

(i) Job done. The splitter is a BuMW part, so it fits together perfectly. No need to worry about upsetting the Canbus. No need to cut into any of the bike's wires at all. No need for nasty clips, joins and sticky tape. Very easy to remove or replace if you have a problem, returning the bike to standard takes two minutes.


TINTS AND HIPS:

As the splitter simply taps into the bike's switched auxiliary socket it will still be limited to a maximum draw of 5 amps.

Make the length of the extended leads longer than you will need them. It is definitely easier to cut wire off later, than to desolder and start again.

ChasMill ordered the splitter from SLM. I think it arived on his doorstep within 48 hours. The parts bloke had never heard of anyone ordering one before.

As it's a standard BuMW part it should be easy to order from any BuMW motorbike or car dealership.
 
Great article Wapping lets hope people read it. :augie But before anyone asks, cos they will, do you have the parts number to add to your article?
 
Great article Wapping lets hope people read it. :augie But before anyone asks, cos they will, do you have the parts number to add to your article?

I guess it's one (or more) of the numbers shown in the picture?

That looks like a dodgy answer but it's not meant to be. :beerjug:

ChasMill ordered it, from the picture I had sent to him earlier in the week. I will check with Charlie and post up if it's anything different.
 
I've used this plug lead on my bike for the last 2 years, its the ideal way to power accessories such as your Autocom ensuring it will be turned off when you switch off the bike, its also auto fused by the bike so you don't need an additional in line fuse, recommended :thumb2
 
its also auto fused by the bike so you don't need an additional in line fuse,

That's true.

Centecs are popular (and convenient) but the fuses are not needed. You could wire it just as easily to a simple block distribution board and let the Canbus look after the safety side.
 
Morning All,

What fantastic weather shame my foot is in plaster, anyway I have an 08/09 ADV and BMW changed the connector design on the wiring from my 04 GS. I have just got a similar splitter although to long (they don't do a short one) so needs to be cut down.
Numbers on the packet are:
AD01 2602A
61 12 7 712 581

On the cable its self:
K25 07D,
KSUA
403562 02
7 712 581-01
E523SW
7 712 580
E523SW/a
Apparently its the cable BMW us when adding an addition power socket.
Cheers and sake riding to you all.

Sorry new to all this have not worked out how to add a photo yet.
 
anyway I have an 08/09 ADV and BMW changed the connector design on the wiring from my 04 GS. I have just got a similar splitter although to long (they don't do a short one) so needs to be cut down.

Sorry new to all this have not worked out how to add a photo yet.

Thanks for that.

A good heads up that the sockets may / do differ on later models but that a similar lead is available.

I will check the part number(s) with BuMW.

I have sent you a PM. If you could flick me an email with the picture attached I will lob it up for you.
 
The part number is 61132316621 and mine cost me a whopping £13.50 plus postage.

My bike is an 04 model so, as said before, this might not fit later models.
 
OK, thank you.

That looks like:

Pre 08 Models: Part no. 61 13 2 316 621 - as per ChasMill

Post 08 Models: Part no. 61 12 7 712 581 - as per Baron

Do though check.
 
That's true.

Centecs are popular (and convenient) but the fuses are not needed. You could wire it just as easily to a simple block distribution board and let the Canbus look after the safety side.

You're right in principle, but not in practice if you want to draw more than 5 amps (I think it's 5). A chocolate block will be fine for an autocom alone, but less good for supplying power to 70 watts of aux lighting and a heated vest.

Your splitter is more useful than you give it credit for!

Darren
 
OK, thank you.

That looks like:

Pre 08 Models: Part no. 61 13 2 316 621 - as per ChasMill

Post 08 Models: Part no. 61 12 7 712 581 - as per Baron

Do though check.

I think the change over was earlier as my 54 reg 1200 GS could use the oilhead splitter, but the 07 GSA couldn't :tears
 
You're right in principle, but not in practice if you want to draw more than 5 amps (I think it's 5). A chocolate block will be fine for an autocom alone, but less good for supplying power to 70 watts of aux lighting and a heated vest.

Your splitter is more useful than you give it credit for!

Darren


I did point out that the splitter and a simple block would be subject to the five amp limit, powered as it is from the basic aux. socket's supply. Item one on Tints and Hips.

It is useful - I can only hope - for those bods who worry about powering simple devices, dispensing with their fears over chopping into loom wires.

I will post up a simple plan of how to mix in relays etc.
 
I will post up a simple plan of how to mix in relays etc.

Was just thinking that......it would be very easy to wire up a Centec fuse box after a relay switched by this splitter wire......then you'd have an ignition switched aux fuse box without the 5a limitation :)
 
Was just thinking that......it would be very easy to wire up a Centec fuse box after a relay switched by this splitter wire......then you'd have an ignition switched aux fuse box without the 5a limitation :)

Indeedy, indeedy. :beerjug:
 
Morning All,

I have an 08/09 ADV and BMW changed the connector design on the wiring from my 04 GS. I have just got a similar splitter although to long (they don't do a short one) so needs to be cut down.
Numbers on the packet are:
AD01 2602A
61 12 7 712 581

On the cable its self:
K25 07D,
KSUA
403562 02
7 712 581-01
E523SW
7 712 580
E523SW/a
Apparently its the cable BMW us when adding an addition power socket.
Cheers and sake riding to you all.

Sorry new to all this have not worked out how to add a photo yet.

Here is the Baron's lead in all its glory.

He tells me the lead is over a meter long....:eek:

The sockets look totally different, too.

497439132_4qPnM-L.jpg
 
I will post up a simple plan of how to mix in relays etc.

Was just thinking that......it would be very easy to wire up a Centec fuse box after a relay switched by this splitter wire......then you'd have an ignition switched aux fuse box without the 5a limitation :)

Here you are everyone, courtesy of Gunsmoke's website. He uses a 12 volt terminal block (Red positive + and Black negative -) which is itself unfused, relying on the Canbus to make the fuse for him. You could use a Centec fuse box just as well.

HARNESS.JPG


I will also take the liberty of repeating Gunsmoke's advice on the relays:

........ is the relay that switches power to the terminal blocks. I had a small Bosch component (Bosch part no. 0 332 011 007) I which is very small as relays go. I chose to label the wires going to the relay so that I could figure out what went where later. The relay pin layout and schematic are shown below.

relay_pinout.jpg


relay_schematic.jpg


As shown in the schematic, the leads that used to connect to the auxiliary power socket now connect to pins 1 and 2 on the relay. The fused power lead from the auxiliary power socket itself connects to pin 3, with a wire running from pin 5 going to the 12 V terminal strip.

Here is a link to some really good information on installing relays, again prompted by Gunsmoke (to whom I remain endebted etc. etc. etc,)
Relays You will notice that the site prompts you to take power from the diagnostic plug. This makes it complicated in my opinion and brings people back to the fear (quite understandable) of doing something irreversible to damage their bike. Using a splitter from the aux. socket avoids this concern completely, simply as it leaves all the bike's loom wiring completely untouched and is completely reversible in just two minutes, I promise.

If anyone is nervous of relays, don't be. Just think of them as automatic switches, that only turn on (by magic) when conditions are right. Just take a bit of time working out which pin is which and all will be well. Any good High Street auto-electrical shop will tell you, for sure.

Here is a link to how relays work: It's (not quite) magic

I hope the whole thread is useful and will give anyone the confidence to give it a go.


PS For what it's worth I prefer the BlueSea fuse boxes to Centec's. BlueSea Their Terminal blocks are neat, too http://bluesea.com/category/9/36/productline/190
 
Was just thinking that......it would be very easy to wire up a Centec fuse box after a relay switched by this splitter wire......then you'd have an ignition switched aux fuse box without the 5a limitation :)

And perhaps the orgone accumulator, connected to the electrakaticaky via the beeparb statydoop would work too.
 
This guy has a neat site for electrical stuff.

Small neat relays and the like...fairly quick postage from Japan as well.

Seems hes a Canadian (Beaver) living in Japan (Eastern)
 
Part for the R1150GS ??

I hope the thread is still active, cause you people seam to have good knowledge of this issue.

Is there a similar accessory (if yes what it the part number and where from it can be bought) availbale for the R1150GS?

I am in need of a solution to power my EVO-2 communication system and still trying to find the best way to have it done.

Cheers!
 


Back
Top Bottom