Hyperpro springs

Dave Ett

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Fitted the kit this afternoon to lower the 800 by 50mm. Simple job, took me about 2 hours including lunch (to let the fork oil drain out)

I used rachet straps to compress the spring, and it worked a treat.

Took it out for a couple of hours and am very impressed. Feels much more solid in the bendy bits, and I can now get both feet down flat instead of tip-toes!

I am sure it's lost some suppleness off road, but I don't have much of that planned in the near future.

Overall, worth the £200 it cost.:thumb2
 
any chance you could post more details of whats involved as i am of the short leg variety,and might consider this to add to the enjoyment of the bike.Thanks in advance.
 
Pictures huh? Ok - rear first...

Get the bike on it's centrestand, and chock the rear wheel just enough to support it without loading the shock.

Take off the seat, then remove the nuts and screws circled below (including the screw on the left side you can't see):

Publication2.jpg


Then cut the tywraps from the tubes arrowed, to release the wiring looms. Unclip the canbus socket and unclip it's wires too. The plastic part should now come off with a bit of wriggling to reveal the shock top mount.

Remove the two screws for the chain guard, and wriggle it backwards - there's a third screw at the front but it can stay tight, the mounting point just slides over it.

080520101317.jpg


You can see the shock lower bolt through the rear hole in the chain runner, but without the BMW tool, you can't quite get to it:

080520101316.jpg


You'll need to remove the two screws from the chain runner so it'll lift up from the swingarm allowing you to get a tool in. Can just about see one in the pic, to the right (outboard) of the shock mounting:

080520101318.jpg


You can now remove the lower and upper bolts. The shock will slide out downwards, and with a little twisting you can extract it from the bike.

Loosen the grub screw, then compress the spring - I used ratchet straps (yes this is the new spring going in):

070520101308.jpg


once you have compressed it enough, slide the preload adjuster mechanism down to reveal the circlip, and prise that out. The preload adjuster and all the other parts will now slide off the damper rod. Make a note of where they fit!

Spring lengths:

070520101305.jpg


Damper assembly:

070520101306.jpg


Give it a clean up, then re-assemble using the new spring.

Align the preload adjuster to the shock body using the mark made by the grub screw BEFORE you release the spring tension:

070520101307.jpg


Refit the shock and torque up the top & bottom shock bolts to 100Nm. Refit all the other bits and pieces, and behold your purple springiness!

080520101311.jpg
 
And the front? If you insist:

Remove the front wheel, mudguard, brake calipers and ABS sensor - basically all the screws in this pic (and of course the ones on the other side!):

080520101314.jpg


Then loosen the top yoke clamp:

080520101312.jpg


Now loosen - but don't remove - the fork leg cap, it's a 19mm spanner. You will not be able to undo it once it's off the bike.

Now loosen the lower clamp:

080520101313.jpg


And slide the leg off the bike.

Get a suitable tub handy to pour the old fork oil in. Stand it on a big rag, (towel?) the oil gets everywhere when you remove the spring.

Undo the fork cap completely, supporting it as you do since there is a little tension from the spring.

Now using a 13mm spanner, undo the locknut so you can unscrew the fork cap from the damper rod. They're not particularly tight (20Nm).

Remove the fork cap - you can let the damper rod go. Extract the fork spring and let the leg collapse, but don't lay it down as it's full of oil still!

Up-end the fork and drain the oil from it - beware as there is a hole in the shiney bit near the fork seal when it's fully extended. There is also a spacer in the fork botom, which comes as a surprise since it's made of plastic!

Pump the damper rod a few times to work the oil out of the damping passageways. Hang the leg upside down over the catch tub while you do the same for the other fork.

Once both forks are draining, go for lunch. Make it a good long one, so all the oil is drained.

Rebuild time!

Add oil to the right level (110mm) BEFORE you add any of the components. Remember to pump the damper rod until you can no longer hear air gurgling.

Once you have the level right, drop in the spacer then the new spring - tight coils uppermost. You'll find it easier to pull the damper rod fully up before you fit the spring by the way.

Now using all three hands, stop the damper rod from retracting whilst you fit the top plastic spring locator over the rod, then screw the cap on. I found that compressing then bending the spring slightly held the damper rod in place.

Tighten the fork cap locknut (20Nm) and then the cap into the leg as much as it'll go - final tightening can only be done back on the bike.

Refit the fork to the clamps, ensuring the machined line sits flush with the top of the top yoke (5mm showing) and tighten ONLY the lower clamp to 19Nm.

Tighten the fork cap to 20Nm, then tighten the top clamp to 19Nm.

Refit the mudguard, then the front wheel - torque the wheel spindle to 30Nm

Torque the front spindle clamps (4 bolts at the fork bottoms) to 19Nm.

Refit the calipers, torque the bolts to 38Nm.

Refit the ABS sensor, torque it's bolt to 8Nm.

Spin the wheel, and apply the front brake. Happy?

Drop it off the stand and climb on. Ooh! You can touch the floor!

Cheers!:beerjug:
 
I hope this is going in Tims link thread thingy:aidan

brilliant Dave thanks very much for posting :clap:bow:thumb

Richie:beerjug:
 
Thank you all!

When I read that someone had spent a grand to have an Ohlins fitted I nearly choked.

Sure the BMW damper isn't in the same league (I suspect) but the fork oil and springs will be just as good. £800 buys an awful lot of petrol...
 
Spring has Sprung

When I read that someone had spent a grand to have an Ohlins fitted I nearly choked. I know the feeling

Sure the BMW damper isn't in the same league (I suspect) but the fork oil and springs will be just as good. £800 buys an awful lot of petrol...

Yup you suspect right:thumb2

Just as well I get some free petrol :thumb :D

Good sequence of pictures and description of a good job done Dave :thumb2, I'ts great when you get an opertunity to get your bike just how you want it!

Imagine buying a set of clothes that suit all body types :blast

Dean :aidan
 
easy lowering 25mm

hi, guys, I lowered the bike by machining a new groove for the circlip 10mm higher up the damper body (rear) (see dave's pics), which gave me 25-30mm at the weel (1:3) and lowered the front fork by loosening the clamps and pulling up the tubes by 25mm. If that's enough for you this is a cheap solution, adding a lower buddyseat will add another 25mm.
 
hi, guys, I lowered the bike by machining a new groove for the circlip 10mm higher up the damper body (rear) (see dave's pics), which gave me 25-30mm at the weel (1:3) and lowered the front fork by loosening the clamps and pulling up the tubes by 25mm. If that's enough for you this is a cheap solution, adding a lower buddyseat will add another 25mm.

Thats a good mod Tip :thumb2

and lets face it £200.00 buys an awfull lot of petrol :augie
 
hi, guys, I lowered the bike by machining a new groove for the circlip 10mm higher up the damper body (rear) (see dave's pics), which gave me 25-30mm at the weel (1:3) and lowered the front fork by loosening the clamps and pulling up the tubes by 25mm. If that's enough for you this is a cheap solution, adding a lower buddyseat will add another 25mm.

Great idea - I never even thought of that!

I dunno what fork oil grade BMW use as standard, but I suspect it's less than the 10wt supplied with the kit. I'd highly recommend just switching to heavier oil if you're keeping the standard front springs.
 
Not being that technically competent does anybody know anywhere in the midlands that fit the hyperpro lowering kit??

I've tried a few suppliers but not getting much of a response at the moment

Barry
 
Hyper Pro-Spring Kit

Thanks for the detailed fitting description of the Hyper Pro-Spring Kit, my kit arrived today and your description will help me, thanks again...:beerjug:
 


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