1200GS clutch change how too

Hi Spike,
I'm happy to read that you've decided against jubilee clips to fasten air intake rubber hoses. Jubilee clips are ill advised, as using them may fold the rubber and allow false air intake.
Cheers,
GSband.
 
GSband said:
Hi Spike,
I'm happy to read that you've decided against jubilee clips to fasten air intake rubber hoses. Jubilee clips are ill advised, as using them may fold the rubber and allow false air intake.
Cheers,
GSband.
Click to expand...

Yes jubilee clips are alot wider thats why I went back to the origional ones which are sheap enough from BMW.

spike
 
I found that a newcastle brown beer crate (BMW PART NUMBER HAway the lads) fits under the bike bash plate perfectly and holds the rear end off the ground perfectly, I also used a bit of 2x2" wood through the crate handles (crate upside down) and ratchet strapped around the cylinders to steady the bike. NOTE!! If like me you have the thing apart to change an oil seal then the balancer shaft seal is below the oil level of the bike so it would be a good idea to drain some of it before you find this out and oil is pouring on the garage floor....(I changed the gearbox oil seal and the balancer shaft seal to be sure...)

TeZ
 
Good how to guide.
I put my 2010 GSA into John Clark's today as I'd noticed my clutch has been slipping lately, appears there is a distinct lack of friction material, as in down to the metal.
Surprised that it could be that bad at only 35,000 miles but hoping for a goodwill gesture from BMW.
I should find out on Monday.
 
Took slightly longer than anticipated due to Hogmany and New Year but I got a call from JCs today confirming that BMW are going to change my clutch under warranty.
Great news to start 2013. :thumb
 
Mine was replaced under warranty at the 12000 mile service as it was slipping a bit, although it was apparently not showing any signs of wear.
 
What parts did you change? Only the plate or the whole unit?
 
Mine shifts and drives ok and quiet with clutch pulled in, but rattles in neutral. It's done 37K, so am I looking at a new clutch sometime
soon?

Usually clutch pressure plate and friction plate are changed together but a low miles or contaminated friction plate may be ok with the original pressure plate.

I would also make as sure as possible that the gearbox input bearing is in good condition. A weeping seal may well mean the bearing behind it is failing.
 
Don't forget.....

Whilst in there, change at least the felt seal on the clutch pushrod.

Probably worth changing the pushrod as well.

Clutch rattle on my bike 50k miles, was BAD and after the clutch swap was ok ish. Now, 12k on its getting bad again, works though.

It's all nuts and bolts for the clutch swap. Methodical work and all will be ok. Hardest part for me was getting the gearbox off the engine as it was really badly corroded and seized on the locating dowel pins. Clean em up and grease them when buttoning it back together.

Roger.
 
6800 km on mine. Found new clutch parts at: http://www.motobins.co.uk/bmw-parts.php?model=R1200 . Are they good? Or is there other paces to buy the parts from? Is there a way to see if the clutch plate or/and the clutch ring needs replacing? A whole lot of money saved if only the friction plate needs replacement. Has not opened it yet so i dont know if theres oil in there.
 
I had to do mine last year at 25k miles when it became contaminated by gearbox oil, so changed the gearbox input shaft seals for revision '4' seals, I also fitted a Siebenrock clutch plate, twice the money but oil proof (just in case) lubed the splines (of course) and replaced the stupid stainless clips on the throttle bodies with good quality wide cable ties..........perfect!
 
I always believed the gearbox input shaft should not be greased because of dust clogging up the grease to eventually stop the friction plate from moving along the splines. Dry lube should be ok though.

Maybe Steptoe can confirm if this is a myth -
 
ok, i think my drive shaft came of the splines in the final drive, or is the shaft not suppose to rotate when you rotate the rear wheel? it feels kind of loose in there.
 
How much approximately do uk dealers charge?
I had my seals done on warranty in 07 on a 06 bike, I saw it half way through the job and couldn't believe what I was looking at!

Jim
 
The back end is unbolted at the bottom mounts but loosened only at the top. It can then be lifted up to give room to work. Handy because there is no convenient way to disconnect the electrics.
My gearbox was stuck solid to the engine. The bottom right shifted with a wedge. I absolutely could not shift the top left
In the end I turned an M10 bolt to 6mm dia and tapped the gearbox M10
I was then able to jack the box off the engine. Oh such fun. At least easier next time.
My gearbox has the input shaft rattle when the clutch finally goes I'll also do the gearbox bearings.
 
I've had the whole back end off mine. No electrical plug in sight unless it's stripped to the bare frame. Fine when repainting the frame; not so handy for a clutch change. Don't forget to reconnect the starter motor, gear box and side stand BEFORE the frame is dropped down and boxed up. They won't fit unless wrapped around the engine before the frame and air box goes on.
The bike was clearly designed by teams who hardly talked to each other. For such an expensive piece of equipment I expect to see it better thought out than a built down to a price mid 1990s Yamaha.
The intake rubbers use 9mm bands. You can get the special tool for the OEM clips or try to source some correct diameter 9mm band worm clips. Good luck with the latter.
Standard jubilee clips are entirely unsuitable.
 
Pukmeister said:
Re: Step 22:Clutch centreing tool.

Does this come with the clutch kit, or did you have to buy or make your own ??
Click to expand...

You don't need one for a one off.
Assemble clutch but do not tighten bolts holding clutch together more than hand tight.
Line up clutch as best possible by eye, and fit gearbox.
After gearbox is fully home, tighten bolts holding clutch together through starter aperture.
Job done.
If you need a torque wrench, you should not be doing the job.
Myke
 
Nippy Normans supply Touratech, Wunderlich, Desert Fox and many other makes of accessories.
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