Clutch removal and refit for 1200GS and adventure
Left and right of the bike are as you would see it if sitting on the bike.
It is just a lot of nuts and bolts, but I would advise taking loads of pics for your own reference when putting back together, I have added my own pics and also some from the BMW REPROM disc for reference too, I would advise getting a copy of this disc, PM me, also a Haynes manual is helpful too. Ok here we go:
Step 1, Take off Bash plate and fit a jack under engine with a block of wood to help support the bike, I used two ratchet straps around the beams of my Garage to support the bike, down onto the handle bars as in pic. Then a couple of bits of rope to secure the cylinder heads to the handle bars to stop any movement. There are probably other ways of doing this but this is the way I used, made it up as I went along,
Step 2, Take off both seats, disconnect battery at this point too, remove all luggage and luggage racks, remove panels from both sides of petrol tank both plastic and metal ones so all you have left is the tank, to remove the centre panel you have to remove the petrol filler cap, this does not have to come off but I did it just in case it got damaged. All this is self explanitary.
Step 3, remove the air intake pipe from air filter on right side of the bike.
Step 4, Remove the fuel delivery line and both plugs from left side of tank, remove return breather and overflow pipes from right side of tank, Take out 2 bolts either side of the tank and raise it up from the back slightly and pull backwards, it will come off the two supporting rods at the front of the bike. (be sure to have a nearly empty tank when removing it as it will be heavy otherwise).
Step 5, remove exhaust, be sure to spray the nuts to the clip with wd40 or the like as these will be seized, remove bolt from rear of exhaust and twist a little and pull backwards till it comes off, if like mine it might take a bit of effort (even a hammer and screwdriver to release the clip).
Step 6, Remove rear spray guard, 3 bolts that go into final drive unit, I do not know why this has to come off but the manual says too so I did.
Step 7, remove air intakes from throttle stubs, these have special clips on them and need a special pair of pliers from BMW (apparently) they do come loose with a normal pair of pliers and a screwdriver to ease the clip off, I very much doubt that once off they will go back on so I am intending on just using jubilee clips or similar when assembling back up.
Step 8, remove screws from injector valves and pull out of throttle bodies noting the O ring on the end, do this to both sides.
Step 9, remove the throttle bodies, to do this undo the special clips as you did in step 7 then cut the cable ties to bottom of throttle bodies and undo the plug on the bottom and pull the throttle body free, do this to both sides and then lift the clip to the throttle cable divider and slideit out to the left, use cable ties to secure both bodies out of the way.
Step 10, remove the starter motor, this is jumping the gun a bit but I had to do this to get the selector rod off the gear lever, remove the one bolt at the top of the cover, remove the cover and ease out of the frame, it’s a bit tight but does come out, take off the nut on the end of the starter and take off the cable and the plug, then undo the 2 bolts that hold the starter in and remove starter, again its tight but it does come out with a bit of a jiggle.
Step 11, remove selector rod from shift lever, nothing I tried got this to come off easily, which is why I said to remove the starter motor, now you can get to the adjuster rod more easily, slacken both nuts and screw out, I removed the nut on the bottom bit and took the bottom bit out of the gear selector lever to ease this. This will be all apparent when you come to do it.
Step 12, Remove both bolts from the clutch slave cylinder uniformly as this is spring loaded and pull off the rod, unclip the clutch line from the frame of the bike and tie rap up out of the way.
Step 13, Take out the tool tray and remove the two screws in the bottom of the rear mudguard, take out both screws from under the mudguard, take out the 3 screws from the number plate hanger and undo the plug, the hanger slides out towards the back of the bike, once this is off undo the zip ties and unclip the harness from the mudguard and remove.
Step 14, Undo the 2 brake pipes from the preasure modulator, that come from the rear wheel, it says on the REPRM disc I have that these should come off by releasing a clip but mine where screwed in just like a normal brake pipe. Once out pull to one side so they are clear of the bike when splitting it in half.
Step 15, remove the battery by taking off the holder for the onboard documentation hanger and also the battery holder, the battery will now lift out.
Step 16, Remove both crash bars from front of the bike. And look to remove the tray that the wireing harness is sitting on.
Step 17, you are now ready to pull the bike into two halves, but before you loosen any bolts, unplug all the remaining plugs that you can see that will get in the way or hold the bike together, these should be things like
A, the on-board socket, (below seats)
B, side stand switch, I removes this completely
C, footbrake light switch
D, air sensor on air box
Take off all cable ties you can see, there are a few so make sure you get them all, disconnect the hose on the left side of the bike that goes from under the throttle body to the air box.
Step 18, undo the cable tie that holds the gaiter to the gearbox from the final drive (from the gearbox end) and pull it back towards the final drive.
Step 19, This is the tricky part now, protect the frame down beside the gaiter as you will need to prise the shaft off the splines from the gearbox,
take out the 6 bolts that hold the frame to the front of the bike, (3 each side) and get someone to help you here it will be easier, start to pull the bike backwards, BUT remember to prise the drive shaft off as you go, do this a little at a time because if you do not prise off the drive shaft it will come off the splines in the final drive end and you will have to strip off the final drive to reassemble it to the splines. Its sounds tricky but it is not that hard to do.
Once you have the bike in two, take a deep breath and stand the rear section out of the way so it will not get knocked over.
Step 20, Take out the pushrod from the gearbox,
Take off the bracket that holds the exhaust to the gearbox, take off the plastic clutch cover and remove the 3 bolts from the gearbox that holds it to the engine, the gearbox will now pull off the engine, be careful as it will be a little tight, and might need prising to get it started, once it is off set it down on a flat surface careful not to let any oil drain out from the breather.
Step 21, The next step in disc says to insert an engine locking device, I do not know why it says that as the bolts in the clutch assemble are not that tight and can be loosened with a quick action to snap them loose. Mine came loose no problem at all, remove all 6 bolts from the clutch assembly and pull off, might need a careful prise to start it off, one it is off you can inspect what the damage is. Keep a note which way everything comes off as reassemble is the same only in reverse.
My clutch housing was well rusty, the plate was well worn, the Haynes manual says that the “service limit” should be between 4.4 and 4.6mm mine was 4.13mm so well below what BMW say it should be hence the clutch slip I had.
Step 22, Fit the new clutch assembly using the clutch centring tool, and tighten the 6 bolts to 12Nm. Take out engine locking device if you fitted one.
Step 23, lift gearbox and slide the splines into the engine, turn the shaft if you have to to line it up, fit the 3 bolts and tighten to 19Nm. Refit the bracket to the exhaust and push onto the gearbox.
Step 24, offer up the rear section of the bike and mate up the drive shaft to the splines coming out the back of the gearbox, push the rear section forward and using a screwdriver push the drive shaft onto the splines, it should go on with a “snap”.
The rest of the putting back together is a reverse sequence to the dismantling.
Make sure nothing gets snagged or bent or buckled when replacing things.
All of the torque settings for all the bolts are in the Haynes manual OR on the REPROM disc.
If you would like any further info then please PM me and I will try to help all I can.
spike
Left and right of the bike are as you would see it if sitting on the bike.
It is just a lot of nuts and bolts, but I would advise taking loads of pics for your own reference when putting back together, I have added my own pics and also some from the BMW REPROM disc for reference too, I would advise getting a copy of this disc, PM me, also a Haynes manual is helpful too. Ok here we go:
Step 1, Take off Bash plate and fit a jack under engine with a block of wood to help support the bike, I used two ratchet straps around the beams of my Garage to support the bike, down onto the handle bars as in pic. Then a couple of bits of rope to secure the cylinder heads to the handle bars to stop any movement. There are probably other ways of doing this but this is the way I used, made it up as I went along,
Step 2, Take off both seats, disconnect battery at this point too, remove all luggage and luggage racks, remove panels from both sides of petrol tank both plastic and metal ones so all you have left is the tank, to remove the centre panel you have to remove the petrol filler cap, this does not have to come off but I did it just in case it got damaged. All this is self explanitary.
Step 3, remove the air intake pipe from air filter on right side of the bike.
Step 4, Remove the fuel delivery line and both plugs from left side of tank, remove return breather and overflow pipes from right side of tank, Take out 2 bolts either side of the tank and raise it up from the back slightly and pull backwards, it will come off the two supporting rods at the front of the bike. (be sure to have a nearly empty tank when removing it as it will be heavy otherwise).
Step 5, remove exhaust, be sure to spray the nuts to the clip with wd40 or the like as these will be seized, remove bolt from rear of exhaust and twist a little and pull backwards till it comes off, if like mine it might take a bit of effort (even a hammer and screwdriver to release the clip).
Step 6, Remove rear spray guard, 3 bolts that go into final drive unit, I do not know why this has to come off but the manual says too so I did.
Step 7, remove air intakes from throttle stubs, these have special clips on them and need a special pair of pliers from BMW (apparently) they do come loose with a normal pair of pliers and a screwdriver to ease the clip off, I very much doubt that once off they will go back on so I am intending on just using jubilee clips or similar when assembling back up.
Step 8, remove screws from injector valves and pull out of throttle bodies noting the O ring on the end, do this to both sides.
Step 9, remove the throttle bodies, to do this undo the special clips as you did in step 7 then cut the cable ties to bottom of throttle bodies and undo the plug on the bottom and pull the throttle body free, do this to both sides and then lift the clip to the throttle cable divider and slideit out to the left, use cable ties to secure both bodies out of the way.
Step 10, remove the starter motor, this is jumping the gun a bit but I had to do this to get the selector rod off the gear lever, remove the one bolt at the top of the cover, remove the cover and ease out of the frame, it’s a bit tight but does come out, take off the nut on the end of the starter and take off the cable and the plug, then undo the 2 bolts that hold the starter in and remove starter, again its tight but it does come out with a bit of a jiggle.
Step 11, remove selector rod from shift lever, nothing I tried got this to come off easily, which is why I said to remove the starter motor, now you can get to the adjuster rod more easily, slacken both nuts and screw out, I removed the nut on the bottom bit and took the bottom bit out of the gear selector lever to ease this. This will be all apparent when you come to do it.
Step 12, Remove both bolts from the clutch slave cylinder uniformly as this is spring loaded and pull off the rod, unclip the clutch line from the frame of the bike and tie rap up out of the way.
Step 13, Take out the tool tray and remove the two screws in the bottom of the rear mudguard, take out both screws from under the mudguard, take out the 3 screws from the number plate hanger and undo the plug, the hanger slides out towards the back of the bike, once this is off undo the zip ties and unclip the harness from the mudguard and remove.
Step 14, Undo the 2 brake pipes from the preasure modulator, that come from the rear wheel, it says on the REPRM disc I have that these should come off by releasing a clip but mine where screwed in just like a normal brake pipe. Once out pull to one side so they are clear of the bike when splitting it in half.
Step 15, remove the battery by taking off the holder for the onboard documentation hanger and also the battery holder, the battery will now lift out.
Step 16, Remove both crash bars from front of the bike. And look to remove the tray that the wireing harness is sitting on.
Step 17, you are now ready to pull the bike into two halves, but before you loosen any bolts, unplug all the remaining plugs that you can see that will get in the way or hold the bike together, these should be things like
A, the on-board socket, (below seats)
B, side stand switch, I removes this completely
C, footbrake light switch
D, air sensor on air box
Take off all cable ties you can see, there are a few so make sure you get them all, disconnect the hose on the left side of the bike that goes from under the throttle body to the air box.
Step 18, undo the cable tie that holds the gaiter to the gearbox from the final drive (from the gearbox end) and pull it back towards the final drive.
Step 19, This is the tricky part now, protect the frame down beside the gaiter as you will need to prise the shaft off the splines from the gearbox,
take out the 6 bolts that hold the frame to the front of the bike, (3 each side) and get someone to help you here it will be easier, start to pull the bike backwards, BUT remember to prise the drive shaft off as you go, do this a little at a time because if you do not prise off the drive shaft it will come off the splines in the final drive end and you will have to strip off the final drive to reassemble it to the splines. Its sounds tricky but it is not that hard to do.
Once you have the bike in two, take a deep breath and stand the rear section out of the way so it will not get knocked over.
Step 20, Take out the pushrod from the gearbox,
Take off the bracket that holds the exhaust to the gearbox, take off the plastic clutch cover and remove the 3 bolts from the gearbox that holds it to the engine, the gearbox will now pull off the engine, be careful as it will be a little tight, and might need prising to get it started, once it is off set it down on a flat surface careful not to let any oil drain out from the breather.
Step 21, The next step in disc says to insert an engine locking device, I do not know why it says that as the bolts in the clutch assemble are not that tight and can be loosened with a quick action to snap them loose. Mine came loose no problem at all, remove all 6 bolts from the clutch assembly and pull off, might need a careful prise to start it off, one it is off you can inspect what the damage is. Keep a note which way everything comes off as reassemble is the same only in reverse.
My clutch housing was well rusty, the plate was well worn, the Haynes manual says that the “service limit” should be between 4.4 and 4.6mm mine was 4.13mm so well below what BMW say it should be hence the clutch slip I had.
Step 22, Fit the new clutch assembly using the clutch centring tool, and tighten the 6 bolts to 12Nm. Take out engine locking device if you fitted one.
Step 23, lift gearbox and slide the splines into the engine, turn the shaft if you have to to line it up, fit the 3 bolts and tighten to 19Nm. Refit the bracket to the exhaust and push onto the gearbox.
Step 24, offer up the rear section of the bike and mate up the drive shaft to the splines coming out the back of the gearbox, push the rear section forward and using a screwdriver push the drive shaft onto the splines, it should go on with a “snap”.
The rest of the putting back together is a reverse sequence to the dismantling.
Make sure nothing gets snagged or bent or buckled when replacing things.
All of the torque settings for all the bolts are in the Haynes manual OR on the REPROM disc.
If you would like any further info then please PM me and I will try to help all I can.
spike
But as the great Clint Eastwood once said "A mans gotta know his limitations". So if and when I get to the end of the clutch's life theres no way I'm gonna attempt that
